HOAT Rated Coolant
Is this for sure!!! I just bought G05 Zerex and it is yellow. My reservoir is on the low side when cool but I can see it is orange/red. I suppose the two are compatable??
I found mine at Napa fwiw. Cost was $14.95/gallon.--Eric
Click on the FAQ button, and it says Chrysler has used G-05 as factory fill from 01 on died orange.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=10
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=10
I got on the Zerex web site and found a phone number for technical support. When I called them a technican told me yes GO5 Zerex is the same thing that came in my 05 Cummins, they just supply it with a different dye which is interchangeable with other colors of G05. I bet a lot of people will fall victum to this color deal and use orange Prestone. READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL!! HOAT ONLY!!
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From: Alberta Foothills - Power to grow with 6 in a row - XLR8
Does anyone have a good link or a write up on the coolant change? Mainly the specs?
My local NAPA carries the Zerex G-05. I asked the guy if it was HOAT rated and he gave me a blank stare. I read the label and it did state it was ok for diesels and Cummins was under that list.
As I read this thread I came to the conclusion that you can't realy drain the entire cooling system by just pulling the drain, you will always have some left over?
My local NAPA carries the Zerex G-05. I asked the guy if it was HOAT rated and he gave me a blank stare. I read the label and it did state it was ok for diesels and Cummins was under that list.
As I read this thread I came to the conclusion that you can't realy drain the entire cooling system by just pulling the drain, you will always have some left over?
What specs did you need?
My method, anyway, is to drain the radiator in a bucket and flush it. Then I like to set the heater on hot, and undo a heater hose (whichever is handy), and hold a garden hose up to one end, then the other, until the water overflows the radiator cap and runs clear.
Then let it drain, close the drain, then pour in anti-freeze equal to a bit more than 1/2 the listed cooling system capaicty from the manual. Top the rest off with distilled water.
For the overflow tank, you can often pull the hose and hold it below the tank. You can then put a garden hose running hard in the top of the tank, and it will generally push fluid out the hose, which will start it syphoning to empty the overflow tank. Then hook it's hose back up and fill it with anti-freeze and distilled water.
The first few heating and cooling cycles will push air out of the radiator and draw coolant from the overflow bottle back in, so keep an eye on the level and add as needed.
My method, anyway, is to drain the radiator in a bucket and flush it. Then I like to set the heater on hot, and undo a heater hose (whichever is handy), and hold a garden hose up to one end, then the other, until the water overflows the radiator cap and runs clear.
Then let it drain, close the drain, then pour in anti-freeze equal to a bit more than 1/2 the listed cooling system capaicty from the manual. Top the rest off with distilled water.
For the overflow tank, you can often pull the hose and hold it below the tank. You can then put a garden hose running hard in the top of the tank, and it will generally push fluid out the hose, which will start it syphoning to empty the overflow tank. Then hook it's hose back up and fill it with anti-freeze and distilled water.
The first few heating and cooling cycles will push air out of the radiator and draw coolant from the overflow bottle back in, so keep an eye on the level and add as needed.
What specs did you need?
My method, anyway, is to drain the radiator in a bucket and flush it. Then I like to set the heater on hot, and undo a heater hose (whichever is handy), and hold a garden hose up to one end, then the other, until the water overflows the radiator cap and runs clear.
Then let it drain, close the drain, then pour in anti-freeze equal to a bit more than 1/2 the listed cooling system capaicty from the manual. Top the rest off with distilled water.
For the overflow tank, you can often pull the hose and hold it below the tank. You can then put a garden hose running hard in the top of the tank, and it will generally push fluid out the hose, which will start it syphoning to empty the overflow tank. Then hook it's hose back up and fill it with anti-freeze and distilled water.
The first few heating and cooling cycles will push air out of the radiator and draw coolant from the overflow bottle back in, so keep an eye on the level and add as needed.
My method, anyway, is to drain the radiator in a bucket and flush it. Then I like to set the heater on hot, and undo a heater hose (whichever is handy), and hold a garden hose up to one end, then the other, until the water overflows the radiator cap and runs clear.
Then let it drain, close the drain, then pour in anti-freeze equal to a bit more than 1/2 the listed cooling system capaicty from the manual. Top the rest off with distilled water.
For the overflow tank, you can often pull the hose and hold it below the tank. You can then put a garden hose running hard in the top of the tank, and it will generally push fluid out the hose, which will start it syphoning to empty the overflow tank. Then hook it's hose back up and fill it with anti-freeze and distilled water.
The first few heating and cooling cycles will push air out of the radiator and draw coolant from the overflow bottle back in, so keep an eye on the level and add as needed.
Sounds pretty simple.
Then let it drain, close the drain, then pour in anti-freeze equal to a bit more than 1/2 the listed cooling system capaicty from the manual. Top the rest off with distilled water.
I'm not a big fan of using the 50/50 premixed stuff if you are going to flush it out with plain water.
IMHO as long as you are spending the time and money to change the coolant, it makes sense to rinse the deposits and all the old stuff out.
There can be a gallon or more of plain water in low spots that won't drain out, so you can end up getting a weaker than intended anti-freeze concentration if you refill with 50/50 premix.
I had that happen once with a gas motor, and the result got slushy in the winter. Ever since, I've always added the proper volume of anti-freeze to obtain the concentration I needed, based on the cooling system capacity, and top off with distilled water, and I've never had any other problems.
When I did the coolant on my 03, I didn't use use all the distilled water I had bought, so I know quite a bit of water was left in low spots. Having a little bit of tap water in there isn't a problem, but having an anti-freeze concentration too weak to provide freeze, boil, and/or corrosion protection would be...
Anyhow, this is just what works for me...
IMHO as long as you are spending the time and money to change the coolant, it makes sense to rinse the deposits and all the old stuff out.
There can be a gallon or more of plain water in low spots that won't drain out, so you can end up getting a weaker than intended anti-freeze concentration if you refill with 50/50 premix.
I had that happen once with a gas motor, and the result got slushy in the winter. Ever since, I've always added the proper volume of anti-freeze to obtain the concentration I needed, based on the cooling system capacity, and top off with distilled water, and I've never had any other problems.
When I did the coolant on my 03, I didn't use use all the distilled water I had bought, so I know quite a bit of water was left in low spots. Having a little bit of tap water in there isn't a problem, but having an anti-freeze concentration too weak to provide freeze, boil, and/or corrosion protection would be...
Anyhow, this is just what works for me...
For the overflow tank, you can often pull the hose and hold it below the tank. You can then put a garden hose running hard in the top of the tank, and it will generally push fluid out the hose, which will start it syphoning to empty the overflow tank. Then hook it's hose back up and fill it with anti-freeze and distilled water.
I was having trouble finding Zerex antifreeze/coolant and SynPower gear oil, so I E-mailed Valvoline. They were very responsive, telling me NAPA is the best bet for all things Valvoline and that if they don't have it, they can order it. Sure enough, that's where I found it!



