HOAT Rated Coolant
Personally I try to avoid the 50/50 premix stuff, especially when I've flushed the system.
Sometimes a gallon or more of water can remain in low spots, and I've ended up with less concentration than intended.
I much prefer to start with 1/2 or a little more of the published cooling system capacity with anti-freeze, then fill the rest with distilled water.
Sometimes a gallon or more of water can remain in low spots, and I've ended up with less concentration than intended.
I much prefer to start with 1/2 or a little more of the published cooling system capacity with anti-freeze, then fill the rest with distilled water.
I went on a HOAT search today and ended up getting the MOPAR stuff from the dealer at just under $18/gal. I got the orange 5yr 100K stuff; I hope this is correct? It says nothing about HOAT on the jugs. In fact, I found nothing that said HOAT. I found two others that claimed to be Cummins approved: Delo long life and Fleet Charge. The former claimed to have passed the John Deere cavitation test, and the latter claimed to have an anti-cavitation additive. Any feedback on these coolants would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
Thanks,
Nick
Hoat
HOAT seems to be harder to find. I don't understand why the MOPAR antifreeze says nothing about HOAT when DC is requiring it?
Dieselnick: Did it come in a blue/grey jug? I didn't open it, I tried to return it.
DBLR seems to believe the mopar coolant is for their cars, and I tend to agree, since it don't mention Cummins or HOAT on the side of the jug.
I'm mad that autozone quit carrying the Zerex G-05.
They autozone, now stock what china-mart carries, for $2 more on the gallon. Genius.
Dieselnick: Did it come in a blue/grey jug? I didn't open it, I tried to return it.
DBLR seems to believe the mopar coolant is for their cars, and I tend to agree, since it don't mention Cummins or HOAT on the side of the jug.
I'm mad that autozone quit carrying the Zerex G-05.
They autozone, now stock what china-mart carries, for $2 more on the gallon. Genius.
HOAT seems to be harder to find. I don't understand why the MOPAR antifreeze says nothing about HOAT when DC is requiring it?
Dieselnick: Did it come in a blue/grey jug? I didn't open it, I tried to return it.
DBLR seems to believe the mopar coolant is for their cars, and I tend to agree, since it don't mention Cummins or HOAT on the side of the jug.
I'm mad that autozone quit carrying the Zerex G-05.
They autozone, now stock what china-mart carries, for $2 more on the gallon. Genius.
Dieselnick: Did it come in a blue/grey jug? I didn't open it, I tried to return it.
DBLR seems to believe the mopar coolant is for their cars, and I tend to agree, since it don't mention Cummins or HOAT on the side of the jug.
I'm mad that autozone quit carrying the Zerex G-05.
They autozone, now stock what china-mart carries, for $2 more on the gallon. Genius.
Nick
If nothing else do you have a Cummins dealer or big truck shop or truck parts place near by? I would think they would have the proper coolant for use in CTD engine or would hope they do.
The HOAT coolant prevents cavation which can eat through the outside of the cylinder walls. Cavation can happen with a diesel under load. The cylinder expands with each power stroke and then contracts so fast that the coolant cannot fill the void left. The coolant then fills the void with such force that it slowly eats away at the cylinder wall.
This is hard to swallow. Do you have technical info or a link I can research? Cylinder walls moving so violently that cavitation occurs? I have not heard of that. Seems like the ring seal would fail in a few hundred miles with that type of motion occurring. Since diesel blocks are made of compacted graphite type of cast iron that is stronger than car's engine block cast iron I am having a hard time with this.
Thanks for any info.
Damon
Good thing I read this b/c I'm at 98k right now and coincidentally 5yrs old. So, I've been saying that I needed to change the fluid soon. I do have the manual and the Chiltons manual so I would've figured out the type of fluid but now I know where to start looking. So, as usual, good thread.
Personally I try to avoid the 50/50 premix stuff, especially when I've flushed the system.
Sometimes a gallon or more of water can remain in low spots, and I've ended up with less concentration than intended.
I much prefer to start with 1/2 or a little more of the published cooling system capacity with anti-freeze, then fill the rest with distilled water.
Sometimes a gallon or more of water can remain in low spots, and I've ended up with less concentration than intended.
I much prefer to start with 1/2 or a little more of the published cooling system capacity with anti-freeze, then fill the rest with distilled water.
I've come to the same conclusion. The factory service manual states 28 liters for the 5.9 diesel. I have drained the system and refilled with 15 liters of Zerex GO5 and 5 liters of water. That left 8 liters of water somewhere in that block? This is with the rear tires on 12" of blocks so the block was close to level.
Hello,
This is hard to swallow. Do you have technical info or a link I can research? Cylinder walls moving so violently that cavitation occurs? I have not heard of that. Seems like the ring seal would fail in a few hundred miles with that type of motion occurring. Since diesel blocks are made of compacted graphite type of cast iron that is stronger than car's engine block cast iron I am having a hard time with this.
Thanks for any info.
Damon
This is hard to swallow. Do you have technical info or a link I can research? Cylinder walls moving so violently that cavitation occurs? I have not heard of that. Seems like the ring seal would fail in a few hundred miles with that type of motion occurring. Since diesel blocks are made of compacted graphite type of cast iron that is stronger than car's engine block cast iron I am having a hard time with this.
Thanks for any info.
Damon
I was going to say the same thing... That my understanding is that cavitation happens with sleeve type motors, I presume because the coolant passages would have more abrupt angles, so the cavitation issue and anti-cavitation additive doesn't apply to the 5.9.
Anyway, I have the dodge factory manual, and it doesn't mention any additive being required for the diesel.
Anyway, I have the dodge factory manual, and it doesn't mention any additive being required for the diesel.
Administrator ........ DTR's puttin fires out and workin on big trucks admin
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 3
I have been meaning to post this pic. I bought this at my local Mack truck dealer, my cost was just under 10 bucks.

Here is what it is approved for;
Meets or exceeds the following,
-ASTM D4656 inc. D4340 and ASTM D6210
-CAT EC-1
-TMC RP 329, RP302A, RP 351 (color)
-John Deere cavitation test
For use in heavy duty vehicles and stationary equipment including,
-Navastar
-Volvo/Mack
-J.I Case
-Paccar, (Kenworth, Peterbilt)
-Detroit Diesel/MTU/Mercedes
-Cummins
-John Deere
-Ford
-GM
-Freightliner
-Caterpillar
-International
-Komatsu
-New Holland
-Waukesha
Tim

Here is what it is approved for;
Meets or exceeds the following,
-ASTM D4656 inc. D4340 and ASTM D6210
-CAT EC-1
-TMC RP 329, RP302A, RP 351 (color)
-John Deere cavitation test
For use in heavy duty vehicles and stationary equipment including,
-Navastar
-Volvo/Mack
-J.I Case
-Paccar, (Kenworth, Peterbilt)
-Detroit Diesel/MTU/Mercedes
-Cummins
-John Deere
-Ford
-GM
-Freightliner
-Caterpillar
-International
-Komatsu
-New Holland
-Waukesha
Tim
I had a hard time locating Zerex G-05 HOAT coolant until I happened upon it at the local Tractor Supply store. If you have a store nearby, check there, and they generally have good prices, for Chinese junk.
Administrator ........ DTR's puttin fires out and workin on big trucks admin
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 3
Is this for sure!!! I just bought G05 Zerex and it is yellow. My reservoir is on the low side when cool but I can see it is orange/red. I suppose the two are compatable??




