Mindy

Ok had some major build up drivers side batteriy. I removed cables and did a good clean up of the connections. One battery was low ( drivers side) so I charged it up. Truck started fine but after a few minutes...battery charge gauge dropped a bit then engine light. 2 codes... " ECM signal intermittent and Charging system voltage low"

Then this morning it was TOTALLY dead. Not even a light would come on in the cab.

I took the cables off pass side and cleaned them up...positive cable is totally corroded. There was s chunk missing out of the clamp and bolt. But still on there pretty tight.

Truck wont start but all the lights come on etc after the cleaning. Oh and according to my battery tester the batteries have sufficient charge.

Would that alone cause problems? I was thinking I need a new alternator. And lucky for me that runs 300. plus labor.

ANy other ideas or input appreciated. I like to be fully informed before going to the dealer. Im going to change the cable clamp myself today before going to the dealer...save a few $.

Blueboy

If you can get it to run, drive to any of the auto
stores, one of their free services is checking your
alternator and Batterys. Then you will know if
good or bad.

megacabdad

Will it start if you jump it with another ride?

Mindy

Im going to try tomorrow morn. I will never live it down. My truck once got stuck..an f150 pulled it out. Now its going to get boosted by an f150.

Blueboy

Your cummins will be running a long time after
that f150 quits. Its just the embarrassment
of getting all the kinks worked out.

megacabdad

Wash your mouth out with soap sayin' them dirty four letter f words.

Mindy

LOL I know. But right now Im glad to have it otherwise I would be out of eggs and would be missing going to the gym...both things I can't do without!

James Birdsong

Winter is the worse thing on batteries. How old are the batteries? (A 5 year old battery dosen't seem to last 5 years and a month). You can have corrosion in the battery cables, beyond the clamp. You may also have a dead cell. If you can get the truck started, have someone check the voltage at the battery. If the truck is charging, you should be looking at about 14 volts.

Mindy

According to my tester the batteries are both fine.

But the passenger side positive clamp is corroded. When I took it off to clean the terminals...a chunk is missing out of the clamp. Even one of the bolts had a chunk missing...the acid wore it away. The clamp still goes on tight but its not a complete connection.

I have to get a new clamp today...going to strip the cable down and see if the corrosion goes further down...hopefully not.

megacabdad

This is some decent battery info I copied and pasted from here:

http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html

5. Battery Maintenance is an important issue. The battery should be cleaned using a baking soda and water solution; a couple of table spoons to a pint of water. Cable connections need to be cleaned and tightened as battery problems are often caused by dirty and loose connections. A serviceable battery needs to have the fluid level checked. Use only mineral free water, Distilled is best as all impurities have been removed, and there is nothing left that could contaminate your cells. Don't overfill battery cells especially in warmer weather because the natural fluid expansion in hot weather can push excess electrolytes from the battery. To prevent corrosion of cables on top post batteries use a small bead of silicone sealer at the base of the post and place a felt battery washer over it. Coat the washer with high temperature grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline), then place cable on the post and tighten. Coat the exposed cable end with the grease. Most folks don't know that just the gases from the battery condensing on metal parts cause most corrosion.

6. Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries.

For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are ready to test the battery.

State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage
12V 6V
100% 1.265 12.7 6.3
*75% 1.225 12.4 6.2
50% 1.190 12.2 6.1
25% 1.155 12.0 6.0
Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0

*Sulfation of Batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or voltage measures less than 12.4 for a 12v battery, or 6.2 for a 6 volt battery. Sulfation hardens on the battery plates reducing and eventually destroying the ability of the battery to generate Volts and Amps.

Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge.

The results of your testing should be as follows:

Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells.

Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a shorted cell.

If you have a maintenance free wet cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter and load test. Any of the maintenance free type batteries that have a built in hydrometer(black/green window) will tell you the condition of 1 cell of 6. You may get a good reading from 1 cell but have a problem with other cells in the battery.

When in doubt about battery testing, call the battery manufacturer. Many batteries sold today have a toll free number to call for help.