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Fuel injectors code p2149, need help!

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Old 02-21-2018, 11:56 AM   #1  
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Fuel injectors code p2149, need help!


I need your collective wisdom on fuel injector issue I am having. Here is the situation, We (https://www.facebook.com/DrivenToWander/) are family of 3 overlanding from Vancouver, Canada to Ushuaia, Argentina. We have been on the road 16 months and we are currently in Bucaramanga, Colombia. I have a 2007 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4, 5.9 Cummins with Fass Titanium fuel filter setup. It has ~129000 miles on it. Recently when we shipped from Panama to Colombia, my car started to emit lots of white smoke till it is warmed up to operating temperature then smoke goes away. Outside temperature here is hot, mid 90s during the day and humid. Car runs fine, and starts up right away. White smoke smells like diesel, not sweet. There is no coolant in oil, I am not losing coolant or oil. I just found out driver side battery is not holding charge, outputting 11.5 Volt. I checked the codes there is no pending codes but there was two codes stored. First one P2509 power input signal intermittent and second one is p2149 Fuel injector group B supply voltage circuit open.
Both codes must have been came up when we parked almost a month in a camp ground and had to jump to start. Batteries charged up fine (I thought) and code(s) clear itself up after 3 or 4 starts.

Today I removed the valve cover and did OHM test to see if one or more of the fuel injectors are going bad. First 5 ranged between 0.6 to 0.8 but 6th one came back with 1.7 ohm resistance.

After some research and going around shops, I found to my dismay there is no new fuel injectors in stock in the whole country and it would take 8 days to get it from USA for more then $1000 a piece for oem replacement. Ouch...
Some shops suggested I should get the bad one refurbished and put it back on. Before I do anything I wanted ask here and get some advice. Here are some questions

* Is 1.7 ohm resistance is acceptable?
* Can I just change the solenoid but not the injector itself?
* How would I know valve cover gasket is bad?
* Does Remanufactured/furbished injectors reliable?
* Given I will be on the road at least another year or so in South America with questionable diesel should I use additives if so what brand?
* Given I will be on the road at least another year or so in South America should I have spare injectors with me? (I think I know the answer of that)

I am looking forward to hear your suggestions. Thank you....
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Old 02-22-2018, 07:21 AM   #2  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriventoWander View Post
* Is 1.7 ohm resistance is acceptable?
I believe that is over the spec.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DriventoWander View Post
* Can I just change the solenoid but not the injector itself?
I'm not sure you can DIY.
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Originally Posted by DriventoWander View Post
* Does Remanufactured/furbished injectors reliable?
I had mine on the '03 tested and rebuilt by F1 and was very happy with them.

I hope you thought about the quality of fuel before your trip and installed a decent fuel filtering system. Good luck, enjoy your trip.
Back to morning brew . . .
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Old 02-22-2018, 12:41 PM   #3  
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Also if your drivers side battery voltage is different from the passenger side, you have an issue with the cables. The batteries are connected in parallel. It would be good to remove and clean terminals on both ends of all cables.

The alternator output cable goes to one battery, and the ECM (which regulates charging) draws power from the other battery. Sketchy cables can overcharge one battery and overcharge and cook the other, plus set a bunch of codes.

Be sure both negatives are disconnected and isolated before messing with anything else.

With two batteries in parallel it is generally preferable to replace both at once.
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Old 02-22-2018, 08:18 PM   #4  
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Also if your drivers side battery voltage is different from the passenger side, you have an issue with the cables. The batteries are connected in parallel. It would be good to remove and clean terminals on both ends of all cables.

The alternator output cable goes to one battery, and the ECM (which regulates charging) draws power from the other battery. Sketchy cables can overcharge one battery and overcharge and cook the other, plus set a bunch of codes.

Be sure both negatives are disconnected and isolated before messing with anything else.

With two batteries in parallel it is generally preferable to replace both at once.

Thanks for the reply. I did checked the batteries after I disconnected the battery cables. There is practically no resistance on the cable that connects two positive terminals so cable is good. Bummer that I can't return the battery going bad for full refund, it is only 17 months old and still under warranty.
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Old 02-22-2018, 08:24 PM   #5  
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I believe that is over the spec.
I'm not sure you can DIY.
I had mine on the '03 tested and rebuilt by F1 and was very happy with them.

I hope you thought about the quality of fuel before your trip and installed a decent fuel filtering system. Good luck, enjoy your trip.
Back to morning brew . . .
Thanks for the reply. I do have Fass Titanium filtering system and use Baldvin fuel filters. I am guessing battery going bad caused solenoid to fault but I could be wrong. Tomorrow I will be in Bucaramanga going to diesel shops and practice my Spanish. Adventure only starts when things go bad right?
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:05 AM   #6  
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Though there may be no resistance with an ohm meter, party corroded cables may carry the signal of a meter but not the amps needed to do their job.

With the truck running you could take a volt meter reading from positive lug to positive lug.
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