hey hows it goin? well im goin to be doin a 10k mile maintence on my 05 2500 and i just had a few questions. im doin the fuel filter for the first time(its a wix too) and im wondering what do i need to do EXACTLY to change it? ive done one oil change on it so i know how to do that part. also, im gonna do a BHAF (fleet guard) and i want to know what is needed to do this? i mean do i just unscrew the hose from the box and yank up on the box to get it out and stick the filter there or are there screws i need to take out? when i get the box out i just set the filter in there and screw the hose on it correct? also, since it is 10k is there anything else i should be doing at this time? like tighting lubing or checking things? thanks for your time!!!
bryan

ps i also have an outerwears for the filter. o yeah and ill take pics when im done.

 

o yeah, here is a pic of me and my truck not even 2 months after i got it. notice the paper plates. this is how i use my truck mostly if anyone cares... o yeah, dont mine my face, i was a little irritated cause i had a blazer AND a f350 powerstroke that were both lifted try to pull me out at the same time and didnt work. took a 6x6 field truck to pull me out....

 

bump really need help!

 

For the fuel filter change you will need an inch and an eighth socket and a torque wrench. Flip the latch on the side of the canister and drain the fuel. Put the latch back in the closed position. Next unscrew the canister lid and pull it up. The filter comes out attached to the lid. Remove the filter from the lid and install the new o-ring that comes with the filter in the lid. Coat the o-ring with diesel fuel before you install it. Snap the new filter to the lid, screw it back into the canister and torque to 25 ft/lbs. Next turn the key to the run position but do not bump the starter. Repeat this procedure two or three times to prime and fill the canister then start it up and check for leaks. The air filter housing lid has latches not any screws. Just unlatch the lid and pull it up. If I remember correctly I removed the wire from the loom on the tube to give you some slack to move the lid enough to install the filter in the housing. This procedure is pretty much self explanatory and not at all difficult. At ten thousand miles you don't have to do any thing else. At fifteen thousand miles you will have to change the front and rear differential fluid. I change my oil at 7500 miles, the fuel filter at fifteen thousand miles and the air filter at thirty thousand miles. Judging by your picture it sure ain't gonna hurt anything to perform your changes earlier than I do. That picture reminds me of me about twenty-five years ago.

 

thank you soo much for your help!! i should be doin all this stuff tommarow so i should have my hands full. how is the BHAF going to my basically stock truck? o yeah, and im going to change the whole drive train fluids at 15k and go to synthetic

 

Surfer when I was on the stock fuel filter I found it drained a heck of a lot quicker if I first cracked the canister cap (allow air in) and then opened the drain valve (vac lock). To keep the system clean make sure all the diesel is drained from the bowl before removing the cap (filter attached/clipped to it) and clean out the bottom of the bowl (always had crude). It is alot better to actually bump the starter without the engine firing. Your stock lift pump will cycle longer purging air from the system. That's what I love about the 3rd gens! I too buried my cummins following guys offroad in the mud...low feeler being hauled out by two gassers. But hey these trucks are front heavy and I,ve found you can't go slow in the mud or they bury themselves. Jonesy is right on with his method/advice also, both work and work well.

 

the lid of the air box is just clipped on like the others said. The bottom of the airbox is held on by one nut on the edge of the fender and a couple rubber isolators on the bottom, undo the nut and just pull the airbox out. to put a BHAF in you are also going to have to get a 45 degree 4" elbow to attatch the filter to the stock intake tube. BTW the sensor in the factory airbox has to be hooked up or you will have a CEL, it doesn't have to be installed in the intake though.

 

thanks everyone for your help!!! i got everything done and its in there good. i was worried about the fuel filter cause i droped some dried mud in there but i got most of it out by wipein it out like ya'll said. it was super easy! took it to hollister hills here in ca, and it did awsome. would have gone through they mud but there werent enough big trucks if i got stuck to be able to pull me out. plus i had girls with me so i didnt want to look like too big of a tool gettin stuck and all....