Just put new tires on my truck, decided after spending 1100 bucks on new shoes should probably make sure the alignment is good, even though it handled well and went down the road straight. Was told the drivers upper ball joint is worn and the drivers axle U-joint is dry and noisy. I have heard lots of horror stories about bearing and other problems when changing these parts. My question is are there any tips or suggestions for making these repairs go smoothly? Who to use for parts, more importantly who's parts to avoid?

 

You will want to read this thread, as it describes how to press the bearings out by the bolt heads to not damage them.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=ball+joint

 

Good info, any advice on replacing the u-joint in the front axle?

 

Not really. Once the axle is out it should be pretty straight forward. Make sure to match mark the axle, so as to put it back together with the two halves in phase.

Someone else may chime in with some good tips.

 

Once the steering knuckle is out the axle will slide out? Never messed with a 4wd front axle, I would like to have some idea of what Im in for. Thanks for the info!

 

Once the wheel bearing is out, the axle will slide out. You need it out of the way to press out the ball joint.

Usually the U joints on axles have a snap ring on the cap on the inside of the yoke. Then just press out as usual.

 

And they press out quite hard I might add. We had to heat it with a torch before it finally popped.

 

Who did you guys get your parts from? Advance Auto and Autozone carry Moog and TRW chassis parts, any problems with those or should I go with a premium parts supplier like Napa or Carquest?

 

Get greaseable axle U joints to replace the originals. These can come from NAPA and are Precision model number 464.

Don't use Moog ball joints as your replacements. Many of us have and hate them. Dynatrac ball joints seem very good. Carli looks good too, but very expensive. I'm sure there are others. Be sure they are greaseable.

While you are in there do youself a huge favor and get the '08 steering linkage! Also, replace the track bar bushings or get a new heavy duty bar.

 

Whats the advantage of the 08 steering linkage?

 

Tip: if your going in to change one ball joint, go ahead and replace all four so you dont have to do it more than once as well as both u joints.

 

Matt,

The '08 steering linkage is a much stronger design with better geometry. It makes the steering tighter and stronger. This is not a kit, but three separate part numbers from Dodge that include the pitman arm, the linkage and the damper. It bolts right on to earlier trucks. This is the linkage they should have put on beginning in '03.

I think once you go in and start making the needed upgrades on your front end, you might as well cover all bases and do the linkage as well as the ball joints. The only time it might not be worth it to you is if you plan to sell the truck soon.

 

Thanks Raspy. That is good information to have for the future.

 

Dont forget to antisieze things up, so the next time you replace them they will come out nice and easy......

 

The only thing to anti-seize is the spindle assembly on the free spin setup, or the unit bearings, where they fit into the knuckle. I did coat mine with a lot of copper based anti-seize when I did the free spin kit. But it still was tight and I had to "persuade" it on this last tear down after about 80,000 miles of use.

I was not favorably impressed with the anti-seize performance and am wondering what else might be better. Not paint, not grease. Possibly silicone grease that will not ever evaporate or harden. Possibly, teflon paste. The winter sanding or salting of the roads and the blast of rain and ice mixed with that material takes it's toll on the front end. Even my U joints keep getting water in the bearing cups and they've never been immersed.