3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

EGT temp

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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 11:06 PM
  #31  
Jim Dynomite's Avatar
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From: Grass Valley CA
When you cool down, is your a/c still running? That will strain the motor at idle enough to delay the cool down. You should be between 300-350 no problem.

What is your elevation? Less air means hotter temps.

Also, I don't see any intake or exhaust mods in your sig. At least get a muffler delete pipe to keep WOT EGTs in check. 1400* for 45 minutes does not sound good.



...........Jim
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 10:10 AM
  #32  
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From: Colorado
Yea everything is off. And I live at about 6000ft and in about 15 min I can be at around 9500
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 10:37 AM
  #33  
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by nate4567
in about 15 min I can be at around 9500
That is part of the problem... As someone stated before if you add more full to the motor without upgrading your turbo you will get hot temps. Living that high up with less air mass you are doing the same thing. The truck in stock form is adding more fuel but the turbo can't keep up because of the altitude.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 11:47 AM
  #34  
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From: McDonough GA
Originally Posted by nate4567
Valve body or shift kit

Tourqe converter

billet input shaft.

what else do I need to look at
Unless you are going for 600 hp or better those are the big pieces, IMO.

Upgrade the front band strut to handle the increased pressures better. You could get a lever with better leverage and a heavier band but unless you are going to run obnoxiously high pressures and race/sled pull it really is not needed.

There is a billet cover available for the front accumulator\band apply piston that will enhance the ability to hold higher pressures and it has better seals.

If you do a billet input, there are better sealing rings for the input shaft that come with the Transgo shift kit that will be needed. This is a mandatory update with the increase line pressures. The stock ones will lock in the wrong place and wear prematurely.

You could do a 6 disk direct clutch drum but again unless you are going for big power, the 5 disk holds well if the pressures have been kicked up.

The big hard parts you will need are the input shaft and TC, otherwise its a lot of smaller pieces and just good practices setting up the clearances and such.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 08:18 PM
  #35  
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From: Colorado
Can you give me the parts that you would recommend. And where you can get them. I have seen tq converters from 200 - 1300 and input shafts are really expensive, so if I am going to get one I want it to be right

thanks
nathan
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 06:58 PM
  #36  
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From: Alta Loma, CA
Check out:

Goerend Transmission

HTS Transmissions

DTT

NADP

ATS

Sun Coast

I'm sure I'm missing someone.
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 10:44 PM
  #37  
no_6_oh_no's Avatar
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From: McDonough GA
Originally Posted by nate4567
Can you give me the parts that you would recommend. And where you can get them. I have seen tq converters from 200 - 1300 and input shafts are really expensive, so if I am going to get one I want it to be right

thanks
nathan
This is what I did to mine. I have about $2500 into parts including a complete rebuild of trans with new steels and frictions. I did a lot of the work myself so factor in what somebody else is going to want for labor.

Single disk low stall TC, about 1700 stall. I believe its what most call a 10 blade left cut stator. (You choice, but if it was me it would be DTT or Goerends)

Billet 2-3 shift accumulator cover

Billet front band strut

Intelligent Engineering (OPIE) billet input (the smaller one)

Transgo 48RE shift kit

DTT Shift Enhanser
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