Not recomminding this or anything but when I was working katrina I had my brand new dually throttle pinned to the floor every run to the dump uphill or down hill from a complete stop and I am sure the temps were very high. The only problem I ever had was slow manuvering of the trailer the trans temp light came on. I pushed that truck and it performed great. Averaging 20-25k on a goosneck I just put the pedal to the floor until I hit about 70mph just about everytime. These trucks perform well under hard work. fyi

 

and this is what I thought also. What happens to the people that dont have gauges, which is most of them. I see people hauling the big campers around here with no gauges and I know that they are not taking it easy. I am just not so sure that in stock mode I can really do anything to get it hurt. I have the engine temp gauge, if it was that hot wouldnt my engine temp be high?? I have a hard time thinking that the engine coolant is normal temp but the piston are way over heat. Can anyone tell me why the 2 arent related.. I realize that you are going to say that the engine block heat is the temp gauge but if the pistons and the bore was way over heat would that not increase the block heat. And I would think that it would be pretty hot. Also I realize that this is much faster to respond to the changes, but i think that with me driving up those hills like I did, pretty much as fast as I can, that if something was hot I would have got, tranny temp, engine temp or something

Again I am tring to understand this not tell anyone that they are wrong

thanks
nathan

 

The cooling systems on these trucks are over sized and you are not generating enough heat to even tax it yet. Add to that the heat gauge on the dash is truly a dummy reflecting what the ECU thinks you want to see, there is really no correlation. If you put a temp gauge on the motor you might be surprised by the temp swings you DON'T see on the factor gauge.

Your temps are not abnormally high, but, I saw about the same symptoms on my truck. Not high enough to panic but definitely enough to start me thinking and looking. You have a stock auto, 35" tires, and a BullyDog. Baaaaddd combination!

Not saying this is your problem, but, here is what I found to be mine and you have described all the same symptoms:

 

So you are saying to get it to be a good combination I need to ????

upgrade the TQ converter and valve body??

 

we all need to forget about the bully dog, all the temps and everything was a stock system. So just go with stock with 35" tires. Alot of people say that dont shut there truck off until it is below 300 -350. I cant even get mine that low. The coolest I can get it is right around 450 -475. So at the point my gauge is reading right around 100 degrees hotter then everyone elses. Now if my gauge is off 100 degrees that is fine, but what if it is off 5 or 10%. My readings at WOT or hill climbing are going to be substantially higher then everyone else.

thanks
nathan

 

I'd try a different gauge before tearing into anything.

 

I have seen noticably higher cruising EGT's going from stock tires just to 33.5" tires, probably about 100 degrees higher on the same small grades (empty). Your guage does sound off, I shut down at 350 even on 100 degree days and it usually takes only about a minute or less to get there if I've been real easy on it. Also make sure you turn the A/C off while trying to get the EGT's down before shutdown, good for about 50 degrees on mine.

 

Mine seldom will go under 425 at an idle in the hotter months. The shut down temp is really not as important as the change or difference in temps at cruisng and/or towing. The 300-350 shut down temps was originally for gen1 and 2 trucks and it is tough to get these trucks down to that. My 92 is easy to get to 350 at an idle but not the 05 so don't worry so much about the shut down temp.

You can't ignore the BullyDog even though you are talking about stock fueling temps. While it may not be a direct contributor it can figure into the mix. Running those tires with a stock trans is bad enough, adding a programmer will accelerate the problems. It can take less thna 10k miles with extra power and stock trans to see issues. Add the tires in and your driving habits, there is no way to know what to expect.

Your temps are not far enough off to really raise a flag, there are little variances between trucks. What you want to look for is changes over a period of time. An EGT temp 300-400 higher than it has run for the last year under the same conditions is a flag that something is not right.

However, the temp together with a stock trans and the other items does impact what I read into the temps. Experience tells me that even if the temps are normal you have the potential for problems sooner rather than later.

Could you already have problems? Maybe, maybe not.

Could your temps be a result of the problems? Maybe, maybe not.

At a minimum, get a shift kit in the trans to raise the pressures to something that will probably hold the power. While the VB is out, replace the front band strut with a heavier one, and the 2-3 accumulator cover with a billet piece and extra seal. This will address the immediate problem areas, then, drive it for a while and watch your temps. If they remain fairly consistent under a range of driving and loads you are probably ok.

Good luck

 

I noticed the same thing with the Toyos when I put them on, even more so. After I fixed the transmission the temps even with extra fuel are back down equal to or less than what they were with stock size tires.

These stock transmissions really, really, don't like big tires and/or extra fuel.

 

So if I were to make the perfect tranny for this truck what would i need

I have read that a better

tq converter
valve body
billet input shaft

I dont want to race it or anything I want to be able to pull stuff with it, on a paved road. So anything you think i need to get please let me kno

thanks
nathan

 

From the email you wrote it sounds like you are worried about me blowing the tranny out of it. I do plan on upgrading that, but I am still wanting to know why I can hook up a boat (5000lbs) which is half the weight I am able to pull, and I am in danger of melting my motor to the ground. That is my question. Like I said earlier I work in these mountain and I used to pull a 7000 lbs bobcat all over and never even think about me burning it up. I get the gauges and now I am worried because everyone says that I am running to hot.
I am sorry I am so stubern but I dont get why my motor is hot.
What is the max EGT temp that I can run for an hour straight, 1250 1300 ??

 

Upgrading the tranny with a tq converter, valve body, and input shaft will extend the life of your tranny and will make towing a breeze. The problem with adding extra power is that our trucks aren't designed to handle it, with the tranny upgrades you'll be able to put the power to the ground. If I ever bought another truck the first upgrade I would do would be the tranny. As far as your EGT's I would check your gauges first, 450 doesn't sound right on cooldown and if you have the cash get yourself a set of twins, EGT's will be way down!

 

The 1400 is normal temps for stock fueling. Cummins claims they will run all day long at that temp and aside from from occasional problems with the valve seats I don't see any reason to doubt it. Mine did the same thing until I put a boost fooler on it. That took 150-200 degrees off the top temps. Well worth the $80.

As I said, your temps are not out of the realm or anywhere near what I would call seriously high. I think the boost fooler and a free flowing air filter will suffice quite nicely and if nothing else make you feel better about the temps. These trucks just run a little hotter than the olde rones and it seems they were designed that way.

Yes, I would be more concerned about your trans than the EGT temps. Personal experience kinda underscores that. The big tires and sloppy trans could very well contribute to the temps also.

My .02, good luck.

 

thanks that is what I was looking for.

So what are the upgrades that should be done to the tranny to extended the life of the trans. I listed above what I think they are by what I have read. They are

Valve body or shift kit (I think they are the same, except one is prebuilt and the other is a box of parts. But they come out to be the same thing)

Tourqe converter

billet input shaft.
what else do I need to look at

thanks
nathan

 

For everyday towing a valve body and torque converter with the input shaft are all you'll need, unless you're going to be doing boosted launches you have more than enough, makes a world of difference. Some try to get away with just the valve body, don't have to take the trans out to get at it, but I believe the torque converter makes the difference too.