Easy way to change track bar bushings
#1
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Easy way to change track bar bushings
I just put a set of Luke's Links in my track bar, they're a urethane replacement bushing. The old bushings looked pretty good at 62,000 miles.
I put the track bar in my vice and used a 1 3/8" hole saw to cut through the old bushing's rubber. The center came right out and left just the outer metal band. Then I took apart a hack saw and reassembled it with the blade going through the eye of the track bar so I could carefully cut the metal band. When doing this, don't cut all the way through the metal, you don't want to cut into the track bar, just cut most of the way through the metal band. I did this twice, with the second cut 3/8" from the first.
Next I put a small steel chisel between the cuts and tapped the steel band into the center of the hole, and the metal peeled away cleanly, tearing on the saw cuts, and the band fell right out of the bar.
I cleaned up the bar and slid in the new bushings and bolted it back in. It's really an easy job this way!
I put the track bar in my vice and used a 1 3/8" hole saw to cut through the old bushing's rubber. The center came right out and left just the outer metal band. Then I took apart a hack saw and reassembled it with the blade going through the eye of the track bar so I could carefully cut the metal band. When doing this, don't cut all the way through the metal, you don't want to cut into the track bar, just cut most of the way through the metal band. I did this twice, with the second cut 3/8" from the first.
Next I put a small steel chisel between the cuts and tapped the steel band into the center of the hole, and the metal peeled away cleanly, tearing on the saw cuts, and the band fell right out of the bar.
I cleaned up the bar and slid in the new bushings and bolted it back in. It's really an easy job this way!
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Upstate, SC
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Did you take any pics? Why were you replacing the bushings to begin with, were they loose or damaged? Do you have a link to the new bushings you put in? Thanks for sharing your experience.
#3
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I didn't take pics. I had death wobble pretty bad (BFG TKO AT's 305/65r17) and got rid of it with a new steering stabilizer, but after the front of the truck would shake the bejesus out of me I figured most everything must be shot at this point.
The old bushings looked good, but maybe they were a tad soft, who knows? The truck feels pretty much the same with the new urethane bushings. Luke's Links is easy enough to find, I got mine at Geno's Garage online.
The old bushings looked good, but maybe they were a tad soft, who knows? The truck feels pretty much the same with the new urethane bushings. Luke's Links is easy enough to find, I got mine at Geno's Garage online.
#4
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UPDATE:
I have since taken the truck over many roads (500 + miles) that I regularly travel at speeds up to 75, and the ride is NOT the same.
The new bushings are really nice! They have tightened the front end up considerably. No more rattly loose feel.
My initial thoughts were just made on the first drive of about 50 miles...
I have since taken the truck over many roads (500 + miles) that I regularly travel at speeds up to 75, and the ride is NOT the same.
The new bushings are really nice! They have tightened the front end up considerably. No more rattly loose feel.
My initial thoughts were just made on the first drive of about 50 miles...
#6
Registered User
If you don't have a press, the easiest way to R&R the track bar bushings is with a 4lb. hammer... just peen the shell towards the rubber core on 1 side and use an appropriately-sized driver & receiver to drive it out.
We don't even use a press in the shop - faster with the hammer... I can have both bushings out of the track bar in under 3 minutes.
The track bar itself is simple to remove from the truck - just a pair of 18mm bolts for the 5.9L trucks.
We don't even use a press in the shop - faster with the hammer... I can have both bushings out of the track bar in under 3 minutes.
The track bar itself is simple to remove from the truck - just a pair of 18mm bolts for the 5.9L trucks.
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#9
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The tie rod is kind of in the way on the right side, but I used a box end 18mm wrench. The back side is 13/16" but the nuts have wings on them so you don't really need a wrench at all on the back.
Four wheels on the ground and it falls right out, literally. Best upgrade I've done yet, and it was $36 or $38 from Geno's.
Four wheels on the ground and it falls right out, literally. Best upgrade I've done yet, and it was $36 or $38 from Geno's.
#12
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#15
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And I'm not masking any problems replacing my bushings if that was directed toward me XLR8R.... I have checked every component on the front of my truck and all is well except for the BFG tires I run. Right from the factory these trucks will have death wobble with these tires if everything is not perfect.
The poorer the design, the more you need everything perfect fro it to squeak by.