Duramax is better than crappy dodge....
#16
I'm not saying the 48RE is better than the Allison but what I am saying is the Allison isn't what it's all hyped up to be in some respects.
I will say the 48RE is a great transmission since the 03 model year upgrades. But... it's still an automatic.
I put 65000 on my stock 48RE with over 400 rwhp. Never broke it and I pushed it. Since going up to 540 rwhp I upgraded the trans because it's the smart thing to do AND I wanted the power to the ground sooner.
I will say the 48RE is a great transmission since the 03 model year upgrades. But... it's still an automatic.
I put 65000 on my stock 48RE with over 400 rwhp. Never broke it and I pushed it. Since going up to 540 rwhp I upgraded the trans because it's the smart thing to do AND I wanted the power to the ground sooner.
#18
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i did all 4 ball joints 10 months ago. all u joints seem tight. what else do i need to check? i had wheel allignment done 10 months ago also and i always drive nice on pavement. i do notice steering wheel somewhat wondering lately.
#19
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Is your fuel gelled? Are you getting normal LP and RP readings during cranking?
Check the IAT on you EJA, is it rising with cranking, telling you the grid heater is working.
What is your coolant temp after 9 hours?
My guess is its the batteries, the charger will help.
What oil do you have? If your getting close to the pour point it could be making the starter work very hard.
Do you have a winter front installed? That will make the block heater more effective, and prewarms the intake air.
#20
Track-bar, or tie rod ends maybe? My buddy rebuilds front ends for a living when he quoted me a price on parts, I checked out Thuren Fab and it was about half the price and ugraded to cross-over steering. Less moving parts and way better built. JMHO
#21
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i have cardboard winterfront covering entire rad area. i can hear my grid heater cycle for 15 seconds. battery charger is on. ambient air is -31 celcius now. it was -35 earlier. i put charger on 10 amps, i would opt for 2 amp charge but i dont have all day to wait. block heater is working because when i touch cylinder head on exhaust side its kinda warm compared to frame of truck.
#22
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Most realize a GF is a replacable part? Does she realize this? Send her to sallyman to help get his truck running.
#23
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i have cardboard winterfront covering entire rad area. i can hear my grid heater cycle for 15 seconds. battery charger is on. ambient air is -31 celcius now. it was -35 earlier. i put charger on 10 amps, i would opt for 2 amp charge but i dont have all day to wait. block heater is working because when i touch cylinder head on exhaust side its kinda warm compared to frame of truck.
Just becuase you hear the grid heater doesn't mean its working.. Look at the IAT on you EJA.. Fuel pressures, LP and RP, normal during crank?
#24
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6 psi during crank on quad rail gauge. i dont use the raail pressure part of the quad anymore because when i had it hooked up to rail sensor i screwed up 3 rail sensors costing me $800 roughly in 3 months
#26
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It should start no problem. It was below -40 celsius here this morning (as low as the overhead thermometer goes) and mine started. I plug mine in when I shut it down for the night, run 5-40 synthetic, and have good batterys and it starts everytime, but ohh the power steering made some noise! I would really check your grid heater to make sure it is working properly, and your block heater.
As for the winterfront, the mopar one kicks azz. Hope you get er going.
As for the winterfront, the mopar one kicks azz. Hope you get er going.
#27
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I've seen these trucks, with good batteries and 0W40 oil, start well past -45C without being plugged in at all. Two cycles of the grid heaters, and there it goes.
If the batteries are weak at all though, not much of a chance.
Also, get an oilpan heater. If you are running 0W40 oil, all you need is a 100 watt Alaska Pad heater, glued on the side of the pan, to make all the difference in the world.
If the batteries are weak at all though, not much of a chance.
Also, get an oilpan heater. If you are running 0W40 oil, all you need is a 100 watt Alaska Pad heater, glued on the side of the pan, to make all the difference in the world.
#28
You need to drop the drive shaft to verify the u-joints are good or bad.When I had my first issue with u-joints on mine I got a vibration at a certain speed(can't remember what it was now)anything above or below was fine.I dropped the shaft and 2 were partialy seized.Once removed and taking a closer look they had zero grease in the caps.This has been a problem many 3rd gen owners have gone through.I went ahead and replaced every u-joint with Spicers.
#29
i wouldnt jump on gm wagon yet. Theres bad trucks in all 3 makes. We have had 3 durmaxes 4 ford diesels and 6 dodges since 97 in the buisness. Had stuff not work on all 3 makes. We just got rid of 2 f550s because we had major problems with both and replaced them with dodge 5500's. We have a durmax in the yard right now with 4x4 not working and broken park gear at 70000 miles.Last duramax had problems with tranny. First one had problems with wiring going to tranny. If you like a certain brand better you will put up with more problems with them. My point being we have had good luck with some trucks and some bad. We have had more problems with ford than the other 2. Dodge and GM products have both been pretty good to us over the years but sometimes you get one that just dont stay together well. We have had to rplace one duramax one cummins and 3 fords because of having to go to the shop to much.
#30
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youve all read my other post about my %$#@ steering wheel vibration in other post. so i crawled under my dodge and i noticed i have 3 seal leaks. 1 wheel seal and both diff input seals. ***??? cold weather???breathers werent plugged this fall. also fuel leaking from fuelfilter canister...***???? cold weather. its -36 celcius and my truck wont start. it was plugged in for 8 hours...
all i can say is bye bye dodge. duramax time. my buddies never have issues like me.they all drive chevy
all i can say is bye bye dodge. duramax time. my buddies never have issues like me.they all drive chevy
Where are you at? Yesterday, at the AB Chapter year end GTG, there was mention of DC offering steering upgrade parts for the older 3rd gens. Apparently the '08's are sporting more robust parts. The part number for the box of parts was apparently posted somewhere in the threads here in the DTR. A TSB out for it possibly?
On Edit: Here's the link - post 16 & 18: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=220996&page=2
Now, I don't have steering issues, so I just kinda listened with one ear and only absorbed the overview and not the details. Do a search, searches, and more searches on here to find the info. Or hopefully someone in the know will chime in. After hearing this yesterday, it sounds like you're a candidate for this upgrade.
If you're close and need more help to get her going, let me know.......I'm available after my furnace is fixed.