I’m going to attempt to replace my front axle u-joints this weekend and have been gathering parts and tools required. Ended up with Neapco non-greasable u-joints. Going to follow Mr. Gadget’s instructions for pulling the wheel bearing…

Here’s my dumb question for the day (ok – maybe two)… On the back of the box for the u-joint it states “WARNING: U-joint must be fully lubricated upon installation” – It was greased at the factory, should I pull the caps off and attempt to put more in there? If so, what kind of grease should I use?

Brad

 

If you want my suggestion take them back and go buy a set of OEM ones. I tried to install a set of Neapcos last week on my front axles and they did not fit properly. I tried two different u joints and neither of them fit I could get the c clip on the one side in but not the other.
The OEM ones fit with no problem.
Neapcos response to it was some times their product is machined to the extreme tolerance and my need some adjustments made to fit properly.

Good luck

 

I had some bearings on a car like that.... They told me I may need to grind some material off to make them fit....

 

maybe I'm lucky - no issues with the fit. Would have gone with a spicer, bit on one seems to have them in stock around here...

 

u can get the oem aam greasables from the dealer aam greasable V8016665AA

or :http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/pr...I-5006813.html

 

I would think that warning was put there in error, and was meant to only be on the boxes of greasable joints. In fact Spicer claims that the amount of grease injected into each cap during manufacture of a non-greasable joint is critical enough that each cap must be installed to its original location during joint installation.

 

i just find it silly that these moving parts just dont come from the factory with grease zerks. unbelievable..atleast on ball joints

 

I have found the Spicer Life non-greasable u-joints to be far superior to a greasable joint, and I won't use a greasable joint anymore.

The non-greasable joint has a far more positive seal to keep out moisture. Sure the AAM joint is pathetic in the seal area, but it's just not the joint that a Spicer is.

 

I've been running Neapcos for over 50,000 in my front axle. They were recommended by a friend in a driveshaft shop. No problems so far.

 

So,let me get this right! A non greasable ball joint is a bad thing,but a non greasable u-joint is a good thing.You cant have it both ways!

 

Big mistake to install a non greaseable axle U joint!

They will go out again and you'll be right back in there to do it over. Get the greaseables from NAPA or some other place and do it once. The axle U joints on mine were shot a 100,000 and the driveline joints are still fine at 190,000. The axle joints have a lot more torque going through them.

 

For a greasable U joint to function properly it must have a seal design that allows the grease to flow from the joint hub, into the cap, and out of the assem., "past" the seal. It is this process that allows fresh grease in and pushes old grease and contaminants out. I also remember reading instuctions that said something like this- If you cant get one of the clip's to insert into grove, strike the yoke with a brass hammer to allow the yoke to "spring" then re-press the cap, thus allowing the cap to seat squarely, and completely.

 

i had mine done already and the style you bought are 100.000th of an in to big,the only kind that will fit are from the dealer,and there 60 bucks ea, if i were you id take them to a driveshaft co and let them do it for the extra 10, ,you also have to take apart the hub assembly and thats fun too,get some good lube and spray the heck out of it, youll have to beat the heck out of it from the inside of the wheel. its a job but not bad, but really if you havnt done an axle assembly,have someone do it or youll end up doing it twice.good luck

 

Thanks for all the advise (even the advise I didn't follow... always appreciate hearing other opinions).

The main reason I wanted to disasemble myself is that I did not want my wheel bearing destroyed...

I ended up with Neapco 3-0485 (non-greasable) because I wanted to try another non-greasable (just not the original AAM) - would have gone with the Spicer, but could not find them locally - if I have to do it again I'll order some on-line.

Took me a couple hours to disasemble (thanks Mr. Gadget) with very few swear words. Took the axle shaft to a local shop where the pressed the old one out and the new one in - asked if they had any issues getting them in - no problems. Another hour and a half to put it back together again with lots of anti-sieze and I was good to go.

Now the real test will be to see how long they'll last. If they fail early, then I'll consider it a lesson learned. The job itself wasn't that bad, just needed to take my time getting things apart.

I got new tools out of the job too! A nice 3/4" drive breaker bar and a monster 1 11/16" 6 point socket (Both cheap from Northern tool with lifetime warranty).

Just glad the neighbors we're video taping me while I was busting that axle nut loose - wouldn't budge without a 3' cheater. Finally really laid into it with all my wieght - when it went, I went rolling down the driveway .

Thanks again for all the advise - because of this forum and the people here I was able to anticipate and over come the common road blocks.

 

When I was doing this repair I could not get the axle nut to budge.

I went out and got a 3/4" 3 foot long breaker bar, and was back at the store with a broken breaker bar within the next hour. Should have seen the look on their faces.

I ended up going to the local truck repair place (lots to choose from where I live) and they broke the nut loose with a HUGE impact gun.