My 03 3500 is leaking fuel from the filter housing. I replaced the pump last year and said if I had any more trouble with it I was replacing it with a airdog. Dodge wants 350$ for a new filter housing. What are my options with going with a airdog and eliminating the filter housing. Does the airdog come with everything to do this or is other parts needed? Also airdog 100 or the airdog 150?

 

I abandoned the factory fuel filter canister when my truck was new, now 160K miles. I placed a spin on filter adapter on the frame rail under the drivers seat area, a 1/4 turn petcock on each side of the adapter, spun on a Fleetguard FF105 filter and have been fine ever since. Changing filters is 5 minutes, no spilled fuel...turn off the petcocks, fill up the new filter, remove the old filter, spin on the new filter, open the petcocks. You'd have to find the spin on adapter, mine was custom machined, but they must be available. I think my cost was $80. I can do a photo if interested.

Regards
Gemstone

 

I thought about that also but my pump is the canister type on filter housing. I think I could do that but have to mount a pump and figure out something for a water separator.

 

Where is the canester leaking? If it is from under the cap, then get a billet cap from Geno's and keep the stock filter.

I would still add aditional water seperation and a 2 mic filter to the system. You can build your own using Baldwin bases and use the Baldwin BF1212 water seperator and a Cat 1R0750 filter. I built mine for a little more than $100. Got the hardware from NAPA.

 

It appears to be leaking around the bottom side of the rim that has the threads for the cap and along the seam down the center of the canister. Could you explain your set up a little more like what pump you used and other components to make it work? Saving money is a good thing nowadays. If I could build something for even half the price of a airdog would be nice.

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...d.php?t=191118

It appears the big write up and pdf of how to get rid of the fuel filter mounted pump is lost to cyberspace. Maybe the admins here can find it. The link is above but apparently deleted for some reason.
PM me and I can email you the pdf package I have done.
I went looking and it seems the package is still listed here on the board. Here's the link to it.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...0&d=1202486308

db

 

The FASS 95 was installed before I added the filters. I didn't put the filter under the air horn as there is no room there, so I put the fuel/water seperator and filter behind the transfer case and in front of the tank inside the frame. I used a flat peice of 1/4" aluminum attached to the 2 bolts of the drivers seat (an old traffic sign doubled will work). The 2 seat bolts will need to be replaced with ones that are a little longer, make sure they are hardened bolts. I used some large flat washers to create a flat surface for the plate to pull up against. (Look at the welded nuts and you will see why.) The plate needs to extend far enough under the truck to attach the 2 filter bases. The fuel line was replaced when I installed the pump, so I cut the line and plumbed the filters into the line.

You will need to purchase the plumbing attachments for the filter bases and the the line that you will be using. I used 3/8" fuel tubing that came with the pump. I kept the original filter in line and it is a backup and may never need to be changed.

The original fuel line on my truck is a hard plastic and inside a plastic protective cover. This line was replaced with the pump and it came with a new fitting that attached to the tank. An adapter was provided to plumb to the original canister in place of the old pump. This is something you will need to consider as you will be replaceing the filter canister and pump and will need to go directly to the CP3.

It would have been best if I had put the fuel/water seperator before the pump but I would have had to move the pump or use a lot more fuel line and have it going everywhere.

 

If that is your only filter on the truck you are VERY lucky to have made it 160K miles on the injectors.

OEM rating is 7um absolute, 5um at 94%, 95% free and 95% emulsified water removal.

FF105 is rated for 20um @ 96%, and zero water separation.

You must buy some really, really clean fuel!

If you want to only run a singe filter you need to run a P553203 to meet filtration and f/w separation specs from Bosch.

 

papaduck has the right idea. genosgarage.com has the fass pump and frame mount kit. then go through this filter setup we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 if you think you must have a drain on the separator use 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.

your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed