As the title says....front and rear capacities? Also, the torque specs? TIA

 

Don't use the torque specs published as you will shear off bolts! I can't remember the capacities but just hand tighten the bolts don't torque them.

 

I don't think that hand tightening is going to cut it...I would just tighten them pretty good...nothing outrageous. If you are straining, you are torquing them down too much.

As for capacities...3qts in the front, 3 and a half in the back...just did mine with Royal Purple this past weekend. Front diff is a bit of a pain in the rear...but nothing too bad.

 

Oh forgot to ask....is there a difference in the capacity for the rear in a 10.5 vs. the 11.5 or are the diffs the same size?

 

All I can say is I torqued mine using a recently calibrated Snap-on torque wrench and sheared 3 of them off...Yes I did clean out the threads properly and no there was not any old loctite....there was a thread about this awhile back and others had this problem as well. It is possible someone at the factory overtightened them and caused them to be weakened however the general consensus was to only hand tighten a reasonable amount ( I meant hand tighten as in no impact tools, not to leave them loose) I questioned 30-lbs/ft due to the size of the bolts. I haven't looked at a torque chart but I bet they are more in the range of 20-25lbs/ft. I think 30 was just a hair over the top and caused them to snap. If one was curious they could google for a generic torque chart and see what that grade and size of bolt is designed to be torqued to regardless of what the manual from DC says.

 

Book says cover bolts 30 ft/lbs, and fill plug 24 ft.lbs. When these came out there were several threads about cover bolts breaking, but after I did my 1st change with no problems, I figured I was fine.

On the 2nd change I broke a couple of bolts. They never even came close to 30 ft/lbs before they snapped. The bolts have kind of a hard, brittle feel to them.

Anyhow, capacity of the 11.5 is listed at 7.65 pints. There is a full line stamped on the back of some of the covers, that is somewhat below the bottom of the filler hole. Front lists 3.5 pints.

Fluid needs to be synthetic that meets GL-5. 75W-90 or 75W-140 for people who tow in hot climates. Book says no friction modifier for our type of limited slip, but there have been a couple of threads where people had good results.

 

P.S. For 10.5 rear the book lists 4.75 pints, but that doesn't sound right?

 

how do you know what rearend housing you have?

when i called the dealer to verify the amounts they told me 3 in the front diff and 3.5 in the rear diff......FYI

 

I think with the HO you got the bigger rear end... Might be listed in the glove box.

 

Yea my rear end size was listed in the glove box and I have the 10.5. I really dont do the converting thing so what is 4.75 pints equal in quarts?

 

2 pints make a quart.

 

According to my shop manual, the capacities are:

Front axle= 2.25 Qts
10.5 rear= 2.65 Qts
11.5 rear= 4.4 Qts

I would just "snug" the bolts, not gorilla torque. Fill diffs 'till it starts to weep out of the fill hole. Done!

 

i have never heard 4.4 Qts for the rear on a 11.5"

 

I put 4.5 qt's in the rear and almost 3 qt's in the front when I changed mine out last fall.