Didn't start -- Battary Problem???
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Here’s my problem. It all started 2 weeks ago. My truck sat for 4 days, plug in from 4am to 7am. Outside temp between -5* to +5* overnight. Went out to start truck Saturday afternoon. Truck started but stalled after about a minute. Tried to restart, ran for about 15 seconds and stalled again. Here’s a strange thing – all lights and my Prodigy brake controller kept flashing, tried to restart 3 or 4 times, same thing. Plug the block heater in again and threw the battery charger on for around 2 hours. Still did the same thing. Checked for codes – P2509 ECM/PCM Power Input Signal Intermittent. Check all connections, wiggled them around, seamed OK. Trucked started and ran but the ABS & Brake light stayed on. Took the truck for a ride and the lights went off by the time I got 500 feet up the road. Been running fine for 2 weeks now. Parked the truck Friday night, plugged it in, went out this morning to start it and it would just about crank over and wouldn’t start. Got down to around 0* last night. Put the charger on it again for 3 hours, started right up and ran fine. I’ve noticed that when I 1st start up the truck the voltmeter is under the 14v mark. It will stay this way for about 10 minutes if just idling while warming up or if I hit 20 mph, then it goes to around 14.5v (checked with voltmeter). Is this normal and do you think it’s time for batteries? Sorry this is so long, but it’s the only way to explain it. Thanks in advance for your help.
John
John
Could be both batteries or just one battery is getting weak.
If you are on the original batteries as mine are, then they are 6+ years old. A long time for most batteries. I keep a close watch on mine and will replace both if one fails.
If you are on the original batteries as mine are, then they are 6+ years old. A long time for most batteries. I keep a close watch on mine and will replace both if one fails.
After almost 5 years on mine I had one battery that had a small slit under the post cable. It must have been slowly getting bad. I started having issues with longer cranks to start and then start and die and then not want to start. I checked everything else before the batteries. Found the slit and then went ahead and replaced originals with Optima Red Tops. I couldn't believe how much faster it spun and started. No more starting/cranking issues. I just did not realize over time how slow the engine was cranking when starting until if finally just did not have enough juice. It takes a lot of amps to start and run the grid heater and all other necessary things especially when cold.
Guest
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Thanks for the info about the batteries. Not sure if they're the originals or not. just got the truck in August. looks like I'll be getting new ones tomorrow.
Has anyone noticed what the voltmeter does when you 1st start the truck? Is it normal for it to not be showing that it's charging in the beginning or until you reach 20 mph?
Has anyone noticed what the voltmeter does when you 1st start the truck? Is it normal for it to not be showing that it's charging in the beginning or until you reach 20 mph?
Guest
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I don't think that's the same thing I'm seeing. What I'm seeing is when I first start up the truck after work, it doesn't appear to be charging. The voltmeter is down around 12 - 13 volts and stays there until after I start driving and reach 20 mph, then the voltmeter will begin to rise up to 14.5 - 15.
I was wondering, because the first time I saw my truck do that, I was worried that something was wrong...
Your batteries may be original, and if that's the way it is, 5-6 year old batteries need to be replaced, more or less, as a maintenance item, to eliminate them from being the problem...
Let us know what you find out after replacing the batteries.
Your batteries may be original, and if that's the way it is, 5-6 year old batteries need to be replaced, more or less, as a maintenance item, to eliminate them from being the problem...
Let us know what you find out after replacing the batteries.
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You said that you will replace the batteries, but if you don't, check the voltage of the batteries before you start the engine. Disconnect one battery and check the voltage of each battery. I'm not sure what the voltage should be but I think it should be more than 13 volts each.
If you check it with the batteries connected you will not get a good reading if one is bad. The best way to check a battery is under a load and watch how fast the voltage drops.
If the voltage of the batteries is low, I think the volt meter will stay low until voltage increases in the batteries.
If you check it with the batteries connected you will not get a good reading if one is bad. The best way to check a battery is under a load and watch how fast the voltage drops.
If the voltage of the batteries is low, I think the volt meter will stay low until voltage increases in the batteries.
I don't think that's the same thing I'm seeing. What I'm seeing is when I first start up the truck after work, it doesn't appear to be charging. The voltmeter is down around 12 - 13 volts and stays there until after I start driving and reach 20 mph, then the voltmeter will begin to rise up to 14.5 - 15.
Guest
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Well put 2 new 850 CCA Interstate batteries in tonight. Turned over like a dream. We'll see what it does in the morning. Checked the voltmeter, still reading 12-13v. Put voltmeter on the battery, reading 14.4 volts. will drop to 12.2 when grid heater kicks in then right back to 14.4. Truck voltmeter still reads 12-13. Truck voltmeter must get its signal from somewhere else
. Thanks again for all your help.
John
. Thanks again for all your help. John
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NoSparkplugs
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