So I'm now in eternal limp mode..I took everything apart yesterday to check Ohms on the injectors and wiring harness 0's on everything. This is a stupid question, but you are supposed to do that with the key off correct? Checked valve lash (cool) and everything was in spec. By the codes, I'm assuming it's the #3 injector most likely stuck in the closed position. There is no fuel in the oil also. Can I change or pull the one injector, clean it and replace? Thanks, Jamie.

Thought I'd add this as well...My A/C was intermittant for months and has been out now since late october. Also, my tach is very erratic showing idle at 250rpms and over 3000 on the interstate while running 70 mph or so. When driving for long periods, it will read high rpm's for a while then fall back to normal. The engine speed does not match the RPM's. Could I have some kind of short??

 

Help...

 

I have gotten the same codes 3 times since last year (the third time was a couple weeks ago). Truck seems to be running OK now, but seems to have less power. I only seem to have the issue a few months after running the Smarty JR program on level 2. I am back at stock and the check engine light is gone (codes still showing). I have not checked my injectors, but was thinking about either replacing the #3 injector or all of them. I would like to know people's thought on LOWTYD's question also so bump!

 

Initially, when it happened last friday I was returning from a 6 hour drive down from Pennsylvania to Virginia. Interstate the whole way running 75 or so. As I left the interstate, the low fuel light came on and was quickly followed by the CEL less than a minute later. There were 5 codes to start with but I cant remember them all. Crank position sensor, Fanswitch, and the ones I mentioned above. I've been resetting my codes with the Superchips tuner but each time I start it, the same two codes come back. It doesn't even run smooth in limp mode. Sometimes I get a big power surge with grey smoke and then nothing...

 

Well.....Just cleared the codes and unhooked the batteries for a couple hours. Checked the voltage on them. Both at 12.4 to 12.6. Also looked for some wire chafing that was suspect on a couple other trucks near the A/C compressor. Found nothing. Hooked the batteries back up fired up the truck and immediately threw the same two codes. I don't know where to go from here.

 

Good morning, the most common cause for the p2146 code is the wiring in the valve cover going to the injectors. It is part of the gasket and comes as an assembly. You can test it by disconnecting all the injector wires and the connectors to the wiring assembly and ohm the wires from each injector to the corresponding terminal of the connector and make sure there is continuity. As mentioned, the wiring/gasket assembly for the valve cover is the most common cause.

 

Thanks GCSSR... Is there anywhere with clear directions on how to ohm the injectors and related wiring? Ignition on or off? I checked the ohms yesterday, but I'm not sure if I am doing it correctly. Thanks again for the reply. Jamie

 

Did you ohm test with or without the gasket bolted to the injectors? Also, it rather weird you read 0 all across, cause usually, it's .4 to .8. I'd check #3 with the two wires unhooked, that'll tell you a little more.

 

Fuel Injector
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the pigtail nuts from the suspect injector. Using an Ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the solenoid
posts of the injector.
NOTE: Be sure to zero the ohm meter prior to checking the injector circuit.
Is the resistance less than 1 ohm and greater than 0 ohms?
Yes >> Go To 4
No >> Replace the fuel injector.

4. INJECTOR HARNESS OPEN
Connect the pigtail nuts for the suspect injector.
Disconnect the injector harness connector for the suspect injector.
Measure the resistance of the injector harness circuit between the high
side driver circuit and the low side driver circuit for the suspect injector
at the injector harness connector.
NOTE: Be sure to zero the ohm meter prior to checking the injector
circuit.
Is the resistance less than 1 ohm and greater than 0 ohms?
Yes >> Go To 5
No >> Replace or repair the injector harness.

 

I did not take the nuts off the pig tail. Everywhere I tested was 0. I tested at the wire on the injector, at the posts on top of the injector and on the plug tabs where the harness connects. Also, not sure if you read my whole post or not, but I have had some weird things going on electrically "tach surging" and A/C intermittent. I'm tight on funds, and really don't want to look at replacing an injector right now. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Intermittent tach reading and A/C.....run your truck up on a lift or some ramps and look at the group of wires up near the compressor. I bet you got one, or more chaffed and it's causing a short.

 

Ok...I tore it apart again to re-ohm (if that's a word) the injectors. I removed the pigtails from the posts and checked each injector. #1 .001, #2 .004, #3 .091. I also ohm checked the harness on 1, 2, and 3. All 0's from the end of each pigtail on the injector side to the corresponding connector on the exterior of the valve cover gasket. So, out of curiosity, I decided to "tap" with the end of my 1/4 inch ratchet on the 8mm nut that holds the injector in the head itself. The reason I did this is that, in my mind the ohm reading wasn't greater than .100. Well.....after about 5 light taps with the ratchet I re-checked the ohms and it was .341. A couple more taps, and it went to .852. I don't know what that means, but it seems to me I just helped it break the rest of the way. If in fact it is bad. Is it just the solenoid or the injector itself? The meter was set on 2K. Let me know if I was doing it wrong please as I'm no electrician. I'm guessing #3 is shot but I'm not completely clear on how the injector works. Can you just replace the solenoid? I'm open for suggestions. Thanks. Jamie

 

Set the ohmmeter to the lowest range so you will have a more accurate reading. The 2K range was too large for checking resistance from 0-1 ohm. Make sure it reads zero by touching the positive and negative leads together before measuring resistance. If it cannot be set to zero to start, remember that number. You have to subtract that number from the reading to get the actual reading.

 

So while I'm tearing it down to remove the #3 injector, I have everything removed for Cylinder #3.. Valve cover gasket/wiring harness, injector line, rocker arm. Next step is to remove the 2 8mm bolts that hold the injector in. I remove the bolt on the right rear of the injector that was fairly tight. I know they are only 8 ft/lbs or so, but it was fairly snug. Then I put he ratchet on the left front bolt and it isn't even finger tight. I take the ratchet off without turning it and start to remove the bolt with my fingers and stopped before I removed it. At this point, I stepped back and thought for a minute. How about I tighten the injector back up and check the ohms again. So I did. Ohms on #3 are now.031 which I believe is in spec.
Could someone please let me know if this could have been the problem all along. Also could someone post the correct torque specs for the injector hold down bolts. I'm putting it back together tomorrow and will report back then. Wish me luck. Could I possibly get out of this without buying anything??? My history says no, but we'll see.

 

Is the retainer for the injector a rocker style where one bolt tightens the two (the bolts do not bottom the retainer). Can not remember when I did mine, but soon I will see. I also have an injector going south.