2 separate 8mm bolts. Both torqued to 89 inch #'s I believe. I thought about that too, but they both have to be equally tightened. Once I cracked the first one loose, I went to loosen the other one and it was not even snug. Could that have caused the ohm reading to be off?

 

No the ohm reading is only checking the resistance to current flow through the injector coil. If you have readings that are jumping around like that then you have a problem with that injector coil. The reason that the other bolt was loose is when you broke the first bolt loose you removed all the tension from the injector hold down. To answer the question on the key on key off thing, in that case it did not matter. You cannot check resistance with voltage on the circuit that you are testing. With the engine not running the coils were not being powered to fire. Any other time when you check resistance you must remove power from that circuit.

 

Pulled the #3 injector after re-ohming and getting 40 or 50. Just ordered a replacement. She goes back together next week, I'll let Ya'll know how it goes. I was going to post some pictures of the bad injector, but it seems to difficult. If there is an easy way let me know and I'll post. Thanks again everyone for the advice.

 

30 minutes, 2 Bud's, and a $186.00 injector later she's back up and running. And no check engine lights. Maybe I'm imagining things, but it's smoother than ever. Planning on hooking up the boat tomorrow so I can pull some weight. The old injector seemed to have a good amount of carbon build-up on the tip. Any advice on how to clean them up? Additives? I run Lucas and Power service alternately every 6 or 8 tanks. Also, What causes an injector coil to fail? Thanks again to everyone for the advice. Great Forum!!!