3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

cylinders 1 and 2 quit when warmed up

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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 04:50 PM
  #1  
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cylinders 1 and 2 quit when warmed up

Hi, I am new to Dodge Cummins ownership and new to this forum. My August 2003 manufactured 2004 Dodge 5.9 3500 dually seems to run fine when cold but after it gets up to temperature the engine light will come on and it will start missing. It will go back and forth between missing and smooth for a bit and then remain running rough. I found that when it was rough, pulling the connector for 1 and 2 cylinders' fuel injectors made no difference. Putting the 1 and 2 connector back and then pulling the plug for 3 and 4 fuel injectors resulted in a the motor running slightly more rough. With the connector back in place for 3 and 4 and pulling the connector for 5 and 6 resulted in the motor almost dying and probably would if I had not plugged the connector right back in. So it seems that when cold all injectors are working and when warmed up 1 and 2 and either 3 or 4 injectors stop functioning per that test. Also, my cheap little OBD reader does not show any codes though the engine light is on. When I clear the light, it does stay off until the engine is warmed up and again starts missing.
My question is 1) has anyone else seen anything like this? And 2) can anyone tell me if this is definitely injectors, or wiring, or a sending unit, or ecm, or something else?
I am a part-time crew chief race car mechanic (Formula Mazda team, karts, etc.), hotrodder, shade tree mechanic so I know how to turn a wrench, but this beast is new to me. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 05:02 PM
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Personally I'd ohm out the injector solenoids cold, if they test okay idle her a while and check them while warm. I'd imagine it should have thrown a code but odder things have happened.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 06:03 PM
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Yes, I did check the ohms when cold and all were .5 or .6 ohms. I will try it when warm. Thank you for your post. Anyone else?
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 10:46 AM
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1st step on any vehicle since 1996, before even opening the hood, is to analyze the DTC's when the CEL goes on.
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 10:52 AM
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Lary Ellis (Top)'s Avatar
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Check the codes, even if your el cheapo reader doesn't show anything there are codes present.

Advance Auto, AutoZone....etc read them for free

Good Luck
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 02:17 PM
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Doing the key on-off three times while holding the trip button thing gave me the following codes p0201, p2121, p0483, and p2146. I could get the engine light to go off by doing the key on while holding the trip button thing and resetting the dash and by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery but even with the engine light then off (before warming up the engine and the engine light coming on again) these codes would still come up on the dash with the key on-off three times while holding the trip button thing. Again, once the engine warmed up the engine light would come back on and the engine would miss badly.
Help?! And thanks ahead for any suggestions.
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 03:26 PM
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2146 is injector code, my guess you have a solenoid borderline when hot.
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 08:48 AM
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That's what happened to me a couple of months ago. #2 was good while cold but developed resistance when warmed up. Tech told me that Cummins designed it so the entire 3 cylinder bank shuts down when any of the solenoids in that bank malfunctions. Replaced the injector and all is good now. 2146 is the injector code for the front bank. Hope this helps.
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 12:54 PM
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Tremendous help from everyone and thank you Det 1 for sharing the common experience. I am much more confident now of what to look for. Thank you. I will get back to working on the truck when the California rain stops and New Year's celebrating is done. Happy New Year everyone!
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