AH64ID

I noticed a difference in cooling with a new one on my 05 with 45K miles on it.

nwflyoda

i just did this to mine as well as install my bypass kit and it worked out well being able to refer back to this. thanks!

westcoaster

Instead of cutting in to the heater hose I simply pulled one of the bungs on the block to purge air.

Attached a pic with an allen key inserted.

This way you are guaranteed of getting the air out of the block before you even turn the key. I hadn't heard anyone mention it so up goes the pic...


Edited to add:
One more thing... cold water + hot engine block = bad Either wait for the block to cool or boil your distilled water and pour in hot.
Since I chose not to use distilled water I just took my hot water out of my hot water tank.

AH64ID

If you fill slowly you shouldn't need to remove a plug, but a removed plug allows for faster filling.

Why are you changing coolant on a hot block? Just let the block cool and use distilled water, its much better for your cooling system and block.

92'1stGen

An easier alternative would be to remove the heater hose coming off of the pipe that goes into the the top left of the block towards the back of the engine. This point is higher than the location of the plug, and it only requires plyers to remove.

moorepower

A filter with SCA is not needed on a dry liner block period. You want corrosion inhibitors. I have noticed that my heat is not close to what it was when I bought my truck, so hopefully this will get some of the crud out of my core!

AH64ID

Was somebody reccommending a SCA filter? SCA and HOAT aren't compatible.

dezeldog

I used this method for removing the air after the flush. I think that it is the easiest and like 1st gen said it is higher than the bung thus all the air is out.

Jim

AH64ID

I still don't see why everyone is worried about air escaping. The thermostat is designed to let air out. All you have to do is fill it slowly. You can't pour fast enough to have issues.

ctd4stan

I may have missed it, but what does the "H" in HOAT stand for?
OAT = organic acid technology. I'm sure the "H" will be something simple, like Hybrid, Heavy ...


FYI- I was just reading about the PEAK anti-freeze product; there is one topic re: Diesel coolant.
http://www.peakantifreeze.com/resour...speaking.shtml


FYI. From another thread, related topic:
4). Valvoline Zerex G-05 Hoat - Available in concentrate. The NAPA part # is ZXG051. (Dr.Dizzle)

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...l-t269549.html (also started by AH64ID, who also points to this thread; so now each thread references one another ) Good info.

CTD03

ok i cant get my drain plugs out of the block is there any other way to flush all the old out i already flushed 5 times and the water is still red i cant get any more out.

if i take off the thermostat and fill the block and leave the radiator drain open will that push the old out? and i cant seem to get the res flushed out either.

AH64ID

H is for Hybrid.

I couldn't get the peak link to work.



As far as the block plugs I have heard they aren't worth the time to remove, very little extra will drain. You just need to do multiple flushes, it won't ever get 100% clear but it will be VERY diluted after 4-5 flushes.

CTD03

finally i got the res tank to drain. took longer than i thought it would and i say 2 more flushes and i can put new in. Dad came over today and said i was taking to long but dang i want it to be clean. plus tring to do everything right. so i tend to go slower than most when working on truck

ctd4stan

Here is the Peak Antifreeze link again.

http://www.peakantifreeze.com/resour...speaking.shtml

Dr.Dizzle

Did you have a specific question or concern regarding the Peak "Diesel Coolant" literature?