The flush fill has worked out perfectly. Its back to normal now and I think it purged itself of air bubbles in the coolant. The temp gauge has not acted erratically at all. The G-05 I took out was a hint of pink color while the new Zerex is a clear. My handy prestone antifreeze checker says -32 below zero so I
think I am good. (touchdown) spike ball,

Now I need a set of tires.
Have a good one, and thanks for this flush procedure.

 

Water pump gave out at 135K, so jumped on DTR for some how to / tips and got educated on the great new coolants out there, UGH, so thank you all for that.
I read about this very through flush procedure and very much liked it and the results but just did not have the time or patients to execute.... so here's what I did with what I would call good results. Not saying it's a better mouse trap, just another option or experiment that may helps someone as this thread has helped me...so

1 Drained coolant
2 open heat core line - remove hose from barb
3 removed thermostat and mod old stat to HI version
4 stick a 1 to 3 foot chunk of heat hose of the heat core barb on the cylinder head
5 bend the upper rad hose, stat housing still attached so you can set it on top of the valve cover, does 2 things drains it and get is out of the way for step 6
6 stick a funnel in the center hole where the stat goes pour in distilled H2O till comes out of the rad drain, took about a 1/2 gallon till it was pretty much clear
7 move the end of the funnel to the other passage in the cyl head where the stat goes, the end of the funnel will be angled toward the centerline of the engine, fill with H2O till it runs clear out of the rad drain (this means you waited until the h2o stop coming out from step 6) took 3/4 gal for me.
8 stick the funnel in the hose that you put on the heat core barb, again poor h2o till it's clear at the rad drain (mostly clear) took about 3/4 to 1 gallon for me
9 close rad drain & fill system with water
10 once it comes out the thermostat hole install HI stat (read the first part of the thread to figure out what a HI stat is) a little over fill is no big deal
11 pull heat core barb hose off, make sure you have water here or keep filling to you do, then put the heater hose back on, the one that actually runs to your heater
12 start the truck and mix the h2o with any old coolant you have left in the block, I ran mine till stat housing was warm to touch, also run the heater to flush that, did some high idle, revved it a few times, what ever just move the water around. I left my rad cap off, might be good to run it, might not make a difference it's not getting too hot with the stat full open, I did not drive mine, just sat in the shop.
13 open rad drain, open heater core barb, remove HI stat
14 you can try pouring in more H2o in the stat hole and heater barb, I did only because it helped flush crud out, didn't really see a difference in coolant color, MAKE sure the engine is NOT HOT when you do this, you don't want to thermal shock it
14 close rad drain & fill with 100% HOAT
15 once you see it at the stat hole install the new stat took about 3.5 gallons for me
16 with no hoses on the heater core barb top off the system, till it come out then install the hose that goes to your heater core
17 drain the over flow tank into a can, I used the air pressure method suggested on here, Fill with 50/50 HOAT and H2O you'll need at lest a gallon of 50/50.
18 fire the truck up top off with 100% HOAT

With this the final draining was nearly all h20, slightly pink but pretty much the freezing point of h20 with the old school hydrometer, first drain jugs came in at -40F on the meter so the system was 50/50 or a little more at the start.

I'll test my ad fluid after I drive the truck but seems to be plenty of evidence on here that after you flush with water and you need to refill with 100% HOAT to get back to your 50/50 ratio, I'd even be okay with a little over 50/50 since it gets pretty cold where I'm at and its never over heated pulling my trailer in the summer.

I also liked the flush since I could check for leaks on the water pump install, when it was just filled with water, since the antifreeze is the most expensive part of the job.
I got the Zerex HOAT at Advance auto, 30% off via retailmenot on-line coupon, had to call them to have it shipped to store so I could buy it online, some screwing around but I saved 30 bucks.