Ace

Thanks Texas, I've been lurking around just not posting lately. I'm not going to get involved in every discusison that crosses the page anymore like I used to - just the ones I think my alternative viewpoint might be helpful.

Changing or flushing "all" the coolant is an important point due simply to the fact that it stays in there for years on end, gets depleted and needs to come out along with any other sediment that may become present. Any old coolant that remains is wasting space that could be used by new coolant. And even flushing won't get all the junk that is liable to build up in there. That's why I brought up the filters.

I do like AH64's coolant change process. I would probably just wait for warmer weather to do it.

bansh-eman

I used water wetter in my quad. It has pubrication additives that keep the rubber seals from drying out and cracking. As for if it helps to disipate heat I couldn't say for sure. But I have ran the HELL out of my little banshee motor in the heat of the summer and never once overheated. And these things dont exactly have the best coolant system on the market.

quadman20

Well I guess I'm confused. Manual says use 50/50 mix. So if you do a flush and put new 50/50 pre mix it's actually not 50/50 mix when done? And you say it could be higher coolant too water. How could that be because if you did a extensive flush like you say then you know there is residual water in the system somewhere. So wouldn't it be more water to coolant. I hate not being smart.

Ace

No, what AH64 siad was start re-filling with full strength concentrated coolant to compensate for the residual water in the system. As long as you end up getting about 3 to 3.5 gallons of full strength anti-freeze back in the system you will be good to go somewhere near 50/50. It doesn't have to be exact.

Test it later and if it needs more add full strength to the overflow. It will get mixed in by expansion and contraction through the overflow after several heat cycles.

NickBeek

I used the same process back in the summer when I hit 100K miles. It gave me peace of mind knowing I got all the old coolant out and fresh coolant in there. I didn't change the thermostat when I did mine. To get the air out of the system I took the hose off my coolant shut off valve. This is in the hose that goes from the head to the heater core. This allowed for a much quicker fill and burped the system almost completely.



With this hose disconnected when the system was full it would burp a little coolant out of both sides of the hose and I knew I was full. Button her up and top off the overflow tank and I was done.

Dr.Dizzle

The floating ball types of density testers or hydrometers are not very accurate. I use a handheld digital refractometer to test my coolant concentration by volume and freeze point. The freeze point is the temperature at which the first ice crystals or slush begins to form within the system. Digital refractometers; however,are not the most cost effective type available.

I recommend you consider a traditional handheld refractometer over the floating ball hydrometer. I am aware that Fleetguard carries a refractometer (part# CC2800) which is likely available through your local Cummins dealer or big rig dealers.

AH64ID

Other than the auto trans, there is not a single other system on the truck that only drains 60% of the fluid when you drain and refil.

Like its been said, in your engine and trans most the contaminantes are located in the filter.

You tell me... 60% new, 40% old coolant or 99% new coolant, which one will last longer and work better?

Like Ace said...

The manual is assuming a partial drain for maintenance, not a coolant change. So if you drain and refill with 50/50 your'e fine as the stuff in the block is 50/50. Or if you change it like CamperAndy they adding 50/50 is fine.. But if you actually flush the system you need to add your straight coolant first, the 3.7 gallons, to get your required coolant as the 40% that didn't drain in the block is just about pure distilled water. Then top it off with water and thru running the enigne it will get mixed.

Dr.Dizzle

Like AH stated "You are not supposed to add anything to HOAT".

The active ingrediants of Water Wetter are 1) a surfactant, 2) a lubricant for water pump shaft seals and 3) a corrosion inhibiter similar in nature to the GM/Texaco "Dex-cool" extended life OAT formulated coolant. Water Wetter is essentially a inhibiter or additive package in a bottle.

Given that information, I would not recommend adding Water Wetter to a cooling system factory filled with G-05 HOAT formulated coolant. By doing so, you risk chemical compatability issues, reduced coolant life and may compromise the integrity of the cooling system components.

Ace

It is interesting to note that Dexcool and dex"clones" (Prestone all-makes, for one) are the one flavor of formulated automotive anti-freeze that SCA filters may not be adviseable with.

I use a plain filter for the first year after a coolant flush/change, then SCA filters thereafter to offset depletion of the coolant's chemical charge.

nwflyoda

and how much would one of these set you back?

Fisherguy

Nick, what is the purpose of the shut off valve? Why would you not want coolant going to your heater core?






Pubricaction additives? Sounds like something for women going through the 'change of life'!

Ace

The heater shutoff is supposed to aid A/C efficiency, although my testing never showed more than a couple degrees difference with the core shut off. I suspect it represents more of a band-aid for malfunctioning blend doors. But like Nick said, having an opening there does make re-filling the coolant a very easy, straightforward task. Although I believe the same can be accomplished by just pulling the heater hose off the head.

bansh-eman

ISn't that shutoff valve something that guys where oing to help make thier trucks cooler? I remember reading something about guys shuting off the hot coolant going to the heater core because it would cause the passenger side of the truck to "leak" hot air out the vents???

Oh and Fisher... I noticed that after I hit post but just left it lol

PETEDOCTOR

I applaud the thoroughness of that flush. I am wondering if you could use a
pressurized coolant system tester to overcome the thermostat and flush the
system without having to go through the all of those steps. It would take a tester that would allow you to apply shop air-this is how most class eight dealers flush the cooling system. You could either use your distilled water method or a different color coolant and once the color changed you should be good? Any contamination between coolant would be minimal. If it was a concern, you could continue bleeding until it was definitely new coolant.

Fisherguy

Hmmm, now ya got me thinkin, anyplace to hook up a garden hose to flush the old stuff out, like those (Mickey Mouse¿) Prestone kits they used to sell?
How bout putting one of those where Nich has his shut off valve?