I looked and didn't find exactly what I needed to know from previous threads, so I thought I'd relay what I found by doing my own....

Today I changed the two rear-most u joints. The part number I used was Precision 330A from Napa at about $25 each. These joints have grease zerks.

First put the truck in the shop, turn on some music and put cardboard under the truck so you can crawl around without getting dirty. Put the tranny in neutral and put on the parking brake.

Use a 15mm socket to loosen the four bolts at the differential flange. Leave a top bolt in and take off the forward boot clamp on the boot just behind the center carrier bearing. Pull the boot back and mark the male and female part of the slip joint under the boot so you can line these back up when you reinstall the driveshaft.

Mark the driveshaft flange and the differential flange so you can line those back up. Now take out the last bolt holding the driveshaft to the differential flange and pull the driveshaft forward 1/4" to release it from the differential. Drop the rear of the shaft and slide the front back and off at the carrier bearing joint.

Put the driveshaft on your bench. I set the u-joint in the vice and heated the knuckle with a small torch (one of those propane jobbies) on each side where the resin is injected into the knuckle. After 60 seconds the resin started oozing out like one of those Fourth of July firework worms. I torched each side of the knuckle 90 seconds, then flipped the joint over and torched the other two sides for 90 seconds each.

Now I put an impact socket in the knuckle on the joint cap and holding it with a Vice Grip I hit it pretty hard with a 3 pound hammer. I kept the bottom of the knuckle on the anvil and hit the top cap until it drove the bottom cap flush with the bottom knuckle (you'll hear and feel when she bottoms out). Then I put the bottom of the knuckle on the vice with the jaws open about 1 1/2" and drove the cap down until the cross just hit the inside of the lower knuckle. Do not drive it further or you will damage the knuckle.

Now I clamped the vice on the cap I just drove down between the jaws and wiggled and turned the shaft to pull the cap out. Now just flip the knuckle over and drive the cross down into the remaining cap using the socket. The cap will pop out and you can clamp it in the vice and pull it out also. Now you can take the one knuckle off. Repeat the heating and driving with the other knuckle.

For reassembly, I scraped out the resin with a utility knife and cleaned up the knuckle with plumber's cloth. I cleaned the knuckles with brake cleaner and then greased the knuckles. To install the new cross, install the grease zerk and pull off the caps and set them in a clean spot. Insert the cross in a knuckle and then push a cap in the knuckle from the outside. I hold the cross deep in the side of the knuckle I'm putting the cap in so I'm sure to align the cap and the cross. You want to always be sure the roller bearings are stuck well to the outside rim of the cap.

I use a big C clamp to squeeze the cap into the knuckle. You could use a vice, a press, or a clamp to push the caps in the knuckles. You don't want to dent the cap, or push it in too far. Set the cap just deep enough to get the clip inside the knuckle to fit the groove. I push one cap on then flip the knuckle over and push the other cap on. Just be careful to keep those roller bearings in place.

Once the u-joints are done pump them full of grease. Now crawl back under the truck and slide the front of the shaft on the front driveshaft at the carrier bearing. Line the marks up you made earlier so you don't have to worry about any balance issues. Line the rear marks up at the differential and install the four bolts using blue Loctite. I haven't found a torque spec on those bolts yet, so I torqued mine to 65 lbs. If someone knows this spec please post it here.

Put a new boot clamp on the front of the boot at the carrier bearing. I was able to reuse the old clamp, and some people use hose clamps, zip ties, or buy new boot clamps.

Take the truck for a test drive. Have a beer and clean up the tools. This project took me 2 1/2 hours. I found heating the knuckles more helped with disassembly, initially I was not heating until the resin oozed out. I also think adding a shot of penetrating oil helps get the caps out. The first joint I did took much longer than the second, and I hope this write-up helps you do your joints in much less time than I did.

By the way, my impact socket is trashed. Be prepared to sacrifice a socket!