Brake drag
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Brake drag
I'm just wondering how other peoples brakes wear on their trucks. This is my first truck to have rear wheel disk brakes. I don't haul often, and my rear pads need changed about the same time as the fronts.
After I changed the rears this last time they drug and overheated. Calipers are moving freely on shoulder bolts. So I changed out left and right tubes/hoses and they are still dragging a little. Since I've been paying attention I've noticed some things that make me think they have been dragging for a while and I just didn't pick up on it.
So is it normal to change all four corners when doing pads, or do I have some other problem with my system.
2005 QC 2500 HD stock 153,000 miles
After I changed the rears this last time they drug and overheated. Calipers are moving freely on shoulder bolts. So I changed out left and right tubes/hoses and they are still dragging a little. Since I've been paying attention I've noticed some things that make me think they have been dragging for a while and I just didn't pick up on it.
So is it normal to change all four corners when doing pads, or do I have some other problem with my system.
2005 QC 2500 HD stock 153,000 miles
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Generally not. The rears usually wear a lot slower than the fronts.
The chrome sliders often get grungy enough to not work well. You can clean and polish them, reinstall with some grease. But you're a lot better off replacing them. They're really cheap.
The slider pins can sometimes be a problem. If they look dry, rusted and/or corroded, they need to be replace. But, if the pins looke bad, then the holes they go into probably look the same. Spend some time and clean them out. I use gun cleaning brushes for stuff like that.
I install the pins with anti-seize. But some people just use a high temp grease. Whatever spins your crank.
The chrome sliders often get grungy enough to not work well. You can clean and polish them, reinstall with some grease. But you're a lot better off replacing them. They're really cheap.
The slider pins can sometimes be a problem. If they look dry, rusted and/or corroded, they need to be replace. But, if the pins looke bad, then the holes they go into probably look the same. Spend some time and clean them out. I use gun cleaning brushes for stuff like that.
I install the pins with anti-seize. But some people just use a high temp grease. Whatever spins your crank.
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I've always cleaned and lubed pins and have changed the shim plates. Seals, pins and bores look good.
It seams more to be holding line pressure as the pedal feel is much different when they're dragging. Like the brakes are pumped up.
It seams more to be holding line pressure as the pedal feel is much different when they're dragging. Like the brakes are pumped up.
#5
i had to change my calipers after changing the pads.
when i bought the truck the rear rotors and pads were brand new. a week or so later the right side started having vapors and i could smell them.
i replaced the caliper, all the pins were fine and free, problem gone after changing caliper. the piston must have been sticking
i week or 2 later, the same thing on the left rear.
they were relatively in-expensive and very easy to change.
when i bought the truck the rear rotors and pads were brand new. a week or so later the right side started having vapors and i could smell them.
i replaced the caliper, all the pins were fine and free, problem gone after changing caliper. the piston must have been sticking
i week or 2 later, the same thing on the left rear.
they were relatively in-expensive and very easy to change.
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