Well, time for some PM. Crawled under the truck today to adjust the rear brakes and now the right rear brake drags after being applied in forward. If I apply the brakes while backing up and then go forward, no drag. I'm planning to pull it apart tomorrow but if anyone has experienced this and can tell me what I'm going to find before I get in there, I'd appreciate it.

I also have the RWAL and brake warning lights staying on. Grounding the diagnostic connector gives me a code 9 which the FSM says is "Speed sensor wiring/resistance (unusually high reading)". I've unplugged and reconnected the anti-lock module behind the glove box (left it unhooked for about 30 minutes while I worked on the back brakes) as well as the speed sensor connector at the transmission. Anyone have any suggestions on where to look for this unusual resistance?

Thanks in advance.

 

The sensor on the raer axle housing maybe? It's used for the RWAL to detect if the center carrier is moving. There's a ring with notches which is read by the sensor.

Bad connection?
Bad sensor?
Broken wire or wire rubbing on frame?

Den

 

Good point Den. I was thinking transmission speed sensor, not ABS speed sensor on the diff. Thanks.

 

I ran into the same problem after adjusting my rear brakes,ended up taking it all apart
to clean and lubricate the adjusters. What I wasn't expecting to find though were
seized e brake cables, I replaced them two years ago when I did the brake job.
I guess aftermarket cables aren't as good as OEM.

 

Well, pulled the RR drum this morning and found that the shoe was nearly down to the rivet. That triggered plan Brake Bomb.

I've had the 12"x3" shoes sitting here for nearly 9 months knowing that sooner or later the rear brakes would need attention and then I'd put them on. I also have larger wheel cylinders here (Dodge 1 ton - 1 - 1/8" bore) but I'm thinking of skipping them and going straight to the GM 1 ton 1 - 3/16" bore while I'm doing it. RR e-brake cable has been froze for some time so might as well fix that as well and while I'm at it, might as well drain and refill the diff.

Gotta make a parts run tomorrow to get the e-brake cable and the GM wheel cylinders and then hopefully put it together on Monday PM. Not what I planned for the weekend but then again, that's life. None of this will probably fix my ABS light problem but at least I'll know that I can stop when I want to.

BTW, I was recollecting Infidel's tip on removing the rear drums and I must confess to being confused. As I recall, the tip was to secure the rear axle on jackstands and block the front wheels. Remove both rear tires but replace one lug nut loosely on each and then start the truck, put it in gear, accelerate and then stomp the brakes and the drums would pop loose. Am I totally dense or why does this not make sense for a 3/4 or 1 ton truck with full-floating axles? I can see it for a car or vehicle where the drums slip over the axle but on a vehicle with full-floating axles, I don't see how the drum can come off if the axle hasn't been removed and with the axle out, the drums have no way to turn except by hand. What am I missing?

 

I think he meant that for breaking the axle shafts loose from the drums after you had the 8 nuts off the axle flange. I just hit it with a hammer a few times and they pop loose.

 

BTW, I was recollecting Infidel's tip on removing the rear drums and I must confess to being confused. As I recall, the tip was to secure the rear axle on jackstands and block the front wheels. Remove both rear tires but replace one lug nut loosely on each and then start the truck, put it in gear, accelerate and then stomp the brakes and the drums would pop loose. Am I totally dense or why does this not make sense for a 3/4 or 1 ton truck with full-floating axles? I can see it for a car or vehicle where the drums slip over the axle but on a vehicle with full-floating axles, I don't see how the drum can come off if the axle hasn't been removed and with the axle out, the drums have no way to turn except by hand. What am I missing? [/B][/QUOTE]

I think he meant to do that trick before you remove the axle shaft. You should have outboard drums and not have to remove the hub and bearings to get the drum off. If the drum is seized up on the hub, you can still remove the axle shaft and the bearings to remove the hub and drum as an assembly.

 

I'm not sure if you have outboard drums, but Infidel's trick works great on them. Just make sure you put at least 1 lug nut on so you don't have to chase the drum down the street.

 

Hmm. Don't think we're on the same page here. My 3/4 ton truck should have outboard drums? I've seen a few 3/4 and 1 ton vans with 8-lug outboard drums (or what I think you are referring to as outboard drums) but never a truck. Here's what I have.



Are you telling me that there is a way to take the drum off without pulling the axle? Sorry, I just haven't been able to wrap my mind around that yet.

 

Both of my trucks have outboard drums. I'm not sure about the 1st Gens.

 

Yours are just like mine and YES you have to pull the axles and the bearings to get the drums off.

Edwin

 

Outboard drums came along in '94. All the 1st gens have the PITA setup in Jay's picture.

 

Thanks for clearing that up Dave. I wasn't doubting the validity of the tip, just trying to figure out how or if it applied to me. Glad to know I wasn't missing something that I should have been seeing.

 

So we can put 1-ton GM wheel cylinders on the 1st gen dana 70 axles? What if any modifications are required to accomplish this?

Thanks, Aaron

 

Well, here's a list of the damages thus far:

$12.49 Left rear E-brake cable
$19.99 Right rear E-brake cable
$23.98 2 new rear inner wheel bearing seals (National 417158)
$ 8.58 2 new rear self-adjuster cables (why do I even bother?! )
$21.98 2 new 1 3/16" wheel cylinders (house-brand version of United 37337)
New 3" rear brake shoes (Have to find the receipt from 9 months ago)
Turn the drums
Misc. Brake Clean, brake fluid, spray paint, grease, gear lube, & RTV

The new shoes and wheel cylinders are on and bled with the Mity-Vac. The drums have been turned and are back on and the axles back in. The diff. cover is back on (oops, forgot to put the ID tag back on) and ready for fresh gear lube. As far as I know, the only things left to do are fill the differential, adjust and pressure bleed the brakes, adjust the the e-brake, and try it out. Unfortunately, I probably won't get to do that until Friday.

Aaron, the 1 3/16" wheel cylinder was the same outward size as the 1" that I removed. The only mod required is bending the brake line. The Dodge wheel cylinders have the line coming in from the rear at an angle (meaning that right and left are different) and the GM has it coming in straight (both are the same) so I bent the line a bit and it hooked right up. Easiest to do if you bend the line and connect the line BEFORE putting in the hold-down bolts.

I'll report back here how it stops after I get it on the road but after upgrading from worn out 2 1/2" shoes to new 3" shoes and turning the drums and upgrading from 1" wheel cylinders to 1 3/16" wheel cylinders, I'm expecting it to stop on a dime and give me a quarter back in change. Hope I'm not disappointed.