Best way to find source of engine knock ???
Best way to find source of engine knock ???
I posted about a month ago that I believe I have a rod knock. My oil filter vibrated loose and dumped 6 qts of oil and I was runnin over 90 on the highway. Anyway...before I pull the engine, what's the best way to determine what the cause of the knock is for sure. I was thinking pull the pan, but that looks like I would still have to lift the engine for that. Then I was thinkin pull the head, but don't know if that would help.
All input appreciated, thanks.
All input appreciated, thanks.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
A rod knock. You might try opening an injector line for each cyl to see if can blunt the noise. Rod knock should get worse under load. A galled piston might do the same though.
Just six qts low seems like would be enough to save rods. Believe mentioned galled piston before.
Just six qts low seems like would be enough to save rods. Believe mentioned galled piston before.
So, I just plug along and made it home this morning at 7, Turns out I have 2 more injectors gone bad!!! Replacing all 6 with some very low mile units and see what happens next.... besides my flippin' wallet being empty!
Trending Topics
Do you think the fact that i added 6 qts of fresh oil to the engine hinder any test results ? Also, do i have to be a chemist to interpret the test findings ? Or do they explain what the test reveals ? Thanks, Dan
...and also on the loosening of injector lines. The common rail trucks do NOT have injection pumps. Your pump is merely a high psi pump. The fuel log, lines, and crosstubes are nothing but a high pressure resivior of fuel. Loosen any of the six lines and you'll have the same effect on all injectors. The injection event is at the injector itself controlled by the ECM. Best thing going would be to cancel the injectors with the DRB scan tool and listen for a change.....HOWEVER, this isn't always a sure shot either. If the injector is leaking it can still make a notable "knock" even when the power is cut to it. Only other method would be to remove one line at a time from the fuel log and "cap" the line on the log and then start the engine. Do each one separately and see what happens. If you determine one cylinder making a noise you can swap the injector with another cylinder and see if the knock moves with the injector change. If the "knock" moves, you know you need an injector...... if the knock stays at the same hole, you need a bucket full of money.


