Do I need a full $8,000 billet auto trans, I really dont think so.

What are good upgrades for the 48 series?

Aftermarket valve body and torque converter I assume would be a must, but what else?

Deep trans pan, shift kit, etc?

Concerning the torque converters, why are some $1200-$1500 and TCI sells some for $550.....

 

$8,000.00 bucks?

 

$45-4800 Cdn you can buy a NADP built tranny that will hold 450hp no problem. A local shop should be able to rebuild a tranny for you witha billet torque converter, aftermarket clutches and valve body for under $4000

 

It was just a number I thought of.....

I have heard that in addition to the price of the parts, for pulling the trans, with reinstallation will cost $2000 just in labor

 

Fairly high........4,000.00-6000.00 depending on your requirements

 

How do the stock flexplates hold up to mild power, like 500ish hp?

Just daily driving and occassional light towing, 5,000 pounds.

Will never sled pull or anything. I just want power that I can put to the ground and not worry about it

 

2G in labor's a bit stiff. Most places can take out and reinstall a tranny in one work day. If you figure about $80/hour, it'll cost you $700-$800 in labor.

When I had my new TC and VB installed, parts and labor total plus tax was $2300. That was one year ago. For a TC and VB change, you're not talking about intricate tranny work.

Just as an FYI too, I priced a total rebuild out of one of the big, reputable tranny shops here in Cleveland, and I told them I wanted them to use Red Eagle clutches but the stock gearing in the tranny. They told me a complete rebuild would run about $2000 plus tax.

HTH-

 

If you really want to turn your Sr. up, and not worry about it...

...and have some miles or 'er...

Replace everything with new and improved parts.

Call your transmission dealer of choice, and talk to them about pricing, and what they are actually going to do for you.

I can't imagine people are buying performance parts in these times like people were 2 years ago, so I bet you would be pleasantly shocked at what things can be had for, presently.

 

Unless you are going to race or pull and exceed 500 hp doing it, no you don't need to spend that much.

TC - a must have because the stocker is really sloppy. How much you pay depends on how much custom you want. The TCI TC's are a litle better stall and not much better efficiency. A Goerends 15 blade left cut triple disk will cost you about $1200 but it will WORK! If you are not going to pull or race then a good billet cover single disk with better fluid coupling will suffice and run $700-$900.

VB - your choice of a custom VB or a shift kit. A good shift kit will do all you need and cost about $70, but, if yopu have to pay somebody to put it in then you are getting close to what you can buy a VB for. Update the reation rings on the pump snout with either route or you will have problems with leaks.

Billet input shaft - the stocker is pretty tough but if you up the TC efficiency and start using a lockup controller get the billet shaft for security.

Front band - way too much money spent on the hemi band apply levers and such that is not needed. Unless you are really thrashing it a good stock band and billet band strut will do just fine. Fix the pressur eleaksthat leak to band failure and you are ahead of the game.

Front servo - al least do the billet cover with the o-ring seal. If you want to go farther there is a billet servo and use teflon sealing rings for extra safety. This will significantly enance front band apply and life.

Clutch packs - the stock clutchs and counts are good enough to handle most use if the PRESSURE is upped. You can spring for the expensive clutches but they are overkill unless you are thrashing it.

Deep pan - your choice. Its extra fluid but once you fix the circulate in park issue, get rid of the drain back valve, and use lockup as much as possible its not really needed. The stock fluid amount and cooling is more than adequate.

Flex plate - two schools of thought here, replace it with a laminate one and it is stronger but that will transfer the breakage issue to the trans. The stock plate is a pretty good piece and matched with a billet cover will act like a fusible link. The trick is to get and keep the bolts tight. If you tear up a flex plate its a LOT cheaper than a shaft.

I have $2500 into a build I was told wil easily hold 500 hp. I did the R&R myself so that gives you a starting point. You CAN get a GOOD trans rebuild for a decent price.

 

Surf on over to PATC (in Shreveport, La), read thru their well-thought out poop on the 47Rx\48Rx Ramzilla, 'splains all the upgrades (with pics fer those as cain't read!) and why necessary...................

 

Wow. That PATC site just answered all my questions... Was looking to upgrade. Now i think they will get my business this year!