48re troubles? help
48re troubles? help
on sunday i noticed that my 04 2500 with the 48re was hesitant to shift from 2nd to 3rd to 4th. i know sometimes it doesnt want to shift into OD unless you let off the gass a bit, but this was quite a bit of hesitance. at moderate to light throttle, rolling onto the gas on a flat road, it would hit 2500 rpms or more before it shifted. ontop of that it seems a bit sluggish around town unless you really stomp on it. the kicker was today headin up a long driveway at about a 6-8% grade the tranny started in 1st, shifted to 2nd then back to first then REALLY REALLY quickly went back and forth between 1st and 2nd until i stomped on it and it kicked into 1st and off it went. i checked the fluid and its brownish red and smells normal. level was good. is this a case of my tranny needing the bands adjusted? or is my tranny starting to go out? motor is stock with the exception of a 5" str8 pipe and BHAF. 37" toyos and i always lock out the OD unless its appropriate. i just was lookin at new tires today too...looks like maybe the tax return is goin to a tranny shop...any chance my very overdue fuel filter change is contributing? thanks guys. BTW...IF its on its way out the door, what does a mildly built auto cost? i have REALLY been wanting a 6 spd since i bought this truck...anyone swaped an auto for a stick? thanks
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How many miles on the truck? Have you changed out the Trans Fluid and filter yet? If you think you are overdue for a Fuel Filter change, I would try that too.
Personally, I change oil and filter every 5k. Fuel Filter every 10k. And Trans Fluid and Filter and transfer case and diffs every 15k.
My transmission seems to shift fine at almost 40k now. But I think changing out the fluid every 15k is what helps it do so. Wish I had a few extra grand laying around....Id be upgrading to DTT.
Personally, I change oil and filter every 5k. Fuel Filter every 10k. And Trans Fluid and Filter and transfer case and diffs every 15k.
My transmission seems to shift fine at almost 40k now. But I think changing out the fluid every 15k is what helps it do so. Wish I had a few extra grand laying around....Id be upgrading to DTT.
I know from experience......do not ignore what your tranny is tring to tell you, get a service done and maybe you can save yourself a lot of $$ for a rebuild. I am glad I let mine go though because I got a performance tranny in it now and the wife couldn't say a dang (acceptable US version) thing about it.
Try replacing your fuel filter. It sounds stupid, but my truck had the same symtoms as yours - wouldnt shift right and was sluggish. The fuel filter was dirty, Replaced and havent had a problem since.
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
rockittboy,
I had very similar symptoms early on. Shifting back and forth very rapidly (two or three times a second) and not staying in the right gear. It was an electrical connector inside the tranny pan, on the governor I think. The plug had been forced together incorrectly at the factory and was not making a good connection. That was fixed and it's been good for over 73,000 miles.
Wetspirit
I had very similar symptoms early on. Shifting back and forth very rapidly (two or three times a second) and not staying in the right gear. It was an electrical connector inside the tranny pan, on the governor I think. The plug had been forced together incorrectly at the factory and was not making a good connection. That was fixed and it's been good for over 73,000 miles.
Wetspirit
I had the same symptoms for about 13,000 miles and guess what, I had to get a partial rebuild and new torque convertor. Ouch! You can search for my thread on this a few months back. When it finally gave the convertor wasn't locking up when I was coming to a stop. The brakes wouldn't hold it.
Long story short, 1,000 stop and go's each month coupled with a Stage 4 Predator box and lead foot = kaboom on a 48RE.
I had about 70,000 miles on my truck when it really started telling me to stop beating on it.
At 84k it puked...
Long story short, 1,000 stop and go's each month coupled with a Stage 4 Predator box and lead foot = kaboom on a 48RE.
I had about 70,000 miles on my truck when it really started telling me to stop beating on it.
At 84k it puked...
well this is a truck with no boxes. however today i checked the fluid again and it seems to be way overfilled and had about 6-8 air bubbles in the fluid on the stick when i looked. no warranty left. tomorrow i am going to change out fluids and filter. tightened the band today, seems to get up and move alot better. i had to tighten that torx bolt almost 6 times before i got anything.
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its back to doin its quick back and forth shifts between 1st and 2nd if i baby the throttle in a certain spot. if i drive it like i want to get where im goin, there are no probs, only when i wanna drive like an old man. so...i dunno, its either a wiring glitch or its gonna blow. i reset my APPS and its seemed to cut down on the occurences quite a bit.
Torque Converter Lock-Up Fix
Lock Up Complaint: Issue 52, page 39, offered an in-depth look at torque converter lock-up. Although the author was specifically talking about the '98.5 and newer trucks, this tip applies to torque converter lock-up on Turbo Diesels '94 and later.
As documented, many people have replaced the TPS or APPS, transmission temperature sensor and numerous other parts trying to correct the ongoing converter clutch problem with varying degrees of success.
Well, for all of the shadetree mechanics in Turbo Diesel land, before replacing any parts or wasting time connecting a scan tool or voltmeter to the electrical circuit, start with the easiest step first.
I have found the cause of the lock-unlock problem to be a frequency-induced electrical noise into the ground circuit of the battery which causes a fluctuating voltage signal from the TPS to the PCM.
The Solution: Locate the 10-gauge ground wire that runs from the negative post of the passenger battery to the back of the alternator. This wire is often tan with a black stripe.
Starting at the back of the alternator loom where the tan/black striped wire heads for the battery, wrap the wire with a piece of tin foil about 4" - 6" in length. Wrap the tin foil with black electrical tape to secure it in place.
Road test the vehicle. If the problem is corrected, smile.
Tony Garcin
Dunrite Converters
Vancouver, WA
(360) 693-3200
this is from turbodieselregister.com i going to try it tomorrow and i'll let u know what happens
Lock Up Complaint: Issue 52, page 39, offered an in-depth look at torque converter lock-up. Although the author was specifically talking about the '98.5 and newer trucks, this tip applies to torque converter lock-up on Turbo Diesels '94 and later.
As documented, many people have replaced the TPS or APPS, transmission temperature sensor and numerous other parts trying to correct the ongoing converter clutch problem with varying degrees of success.
Well, for all of the shadetree mechanics in Turbo Diesel land, before replacing any parts or wasting time connecting a scan tool or voltmeter to the electrical circuit, start with the easiest step first.
I have found the cause of the lock-unlock problem to be a frequency-induced electrical noise into the ground circuit of the battery which causes a fluctuating voltage signal from the TPS to the PCM.
The Solution: Locate the 10-gauge ground wire that runs from the negative post of the passenger battery to the back of the alternator. This wire is often tan with a black stripe.
Starting at the back of the alternator loom where the tan/black striped wire heads for the battery, wrap the wire with a piece of tin foil about 4" - 6" in length. Wrap the tin foil with black electrical tape to secure it in place.
Road test the vehicle. If the problem is corrected, smile.
Tony Garcin
Dunrite Converters
Vancouver, WA
(360) 693-3200
this is from turbodieselregister.com i going to try it tomorrow and i'll let u know what happens
I had the exact same issue that you are discribing.. I adjusted the bands and it helped briefly... 2 week later I made an appointment for a Monday to get it checked out and on the Sunday before it completely shelled it out!
Get it checked out before you are stranded... Don't let them get you...
Have them replace it all.. TC Clutches Valvebody... Everything
They did mine 1000 before the warranty went out... I was Lucky!
Just tell them it is flaring between shifts... They should know what that means.
Oilguy
Get it checked out before you are stranded... Don't let them get you...
Have them replace it all.. TC Clutches Valvebody... Everything
They did mine 1000 before the warranty went out... I was Lucky!
Just tell them it is flaring between shifts... They should know what that means.
Oilguy
governor and pressure sensor on the v-b. tail of the valvebody has the to combined on the gov body. unplug them both and unbolt the body (two torx screws) with the screws out the bracket can be removed which will allow you to get the gov out. the pressure sensor is the one off the side and has a clip from behind that has to come out to get it .
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