My Dad has a 1997 Dodge Cummins (12v) with about 112k miles on it.. He is having trouble with it not starting...

He recently replaced the starter and solenoid thinking that was the problem, but that didnt correct it.

When you try to start it, it will turn over but not start.. After waiting 15 seconds or so you can turn over again and it wont start.. Normally on the third or fourth try it fires up. Once you have it running it runs good..

It also seems to start quicker when it is cold (engine) versus been running and then shut off for a while...

My dad and a friend are thinking it isnt getting enough fuel when you try to start up but after it gets primed it fires up... He is going to change the fuel filter tomorrow..

Any other ideas/suggestions on that is going on??

thanks

 

might be sucking air in. lots of fuel line problems esp. along the frame rail behind the fuel tank.

 

Yes the fuel lines from the hardlines from the tank to the engine are famous for wearing out and getting pin holes. Check all the connections to/from the tank for signs of weepage, also inspect the fuel filter for proper installation.

I don't know if the overflow valve on the pump will be a problem during start or not, but its another low $$ item that eats your lunch..

J-eh

 

My guess would be a problem with the fuel solenoid...the power wire and relay are notoriously bad. On the driver's side battery, look for a short blue wire that connects to a brown fusible link. Make sure that it is not corroded or loose.

Also, to test, turn the key to the run position and then lift up on the fuel solenoid plunger. It should hold up.
good luck!

 

I agree with Smokee!

 

I just had same problem. I checked the solenoid arm & it wasnt up.
I moved it up manually & it starts right up. Relay was 47.00 at napa.

 

Get the relay at Radio Shack or at any junk yard...the junk yard will give them to you, probably. Any Chrysler vehicle has loads of these relays.

 

Yes, Radio shack part number 275-266. About $6.00. It's a 30 amp relay. While the blades of the relay are a touch smaller, it plugs right in. At that price, throw one in your glove box, right next to the 120 amp fuse that seems to get cooked when changing your oil (the filter or wrench gets knocked up against the hot lead on the back of the alternator-bye bye fuse).

better yet, get a little plastic or rubber cap and cover that **** hot lead. It plugs right in to the recess at the connection point. Good luck, Kevin

 

It was the solenoid.... Does anyone have the NAPA part number?? The local Dodge dealer doesnt have one currently in stock and dad doesnt want to use another other than these two..

thanks

Brian

 

Don't think Napa can get the solenoid.
It's very rare for the solenoid to fail, most are replaced needlessly, expensive way of throwing parts at the wrong problem. About the only time a solenoid fails is when the starter contacts wear out and stick, causing the lift up coil to overheat and fail. You can smell it when it happens.
Before you replace it hook it up straight to the battery to make sure it's really the problem. Many times if the wiring or relay isn't the problem all that needs be done is take the solenoid apart and clean it.
The solenoid is a very simple heavy-duty item that should easily last the life of the truck.

 

I agree with Infidel. The solenoid is *very* unlikely to fail.

 

I stand corrected about the solenoid - I misspoke.. What I meant was by moving the plunger manually it will start every time - that isolated the problem to that instead of fuel lines.. Sorry for the confusion..

Dad is getting a relay from Radio Shack this afternoon and going to replace it.. (The fuel shutdown solenoid is $500 dollars at the dealer BTW...)

Why is the relay $6 at Radio Shack and $46 at NAPA???

thanks for all the help..

 

Some people have commented the Radio Shack relays don't last long. They're good enough to keep you going awhile you wait for a good $20 one from here though http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

 

The Radio Shack 30 amp relay is on the light side and accounts for some having long life problems. Approximate 40 amps are drawn from relay to shut-off selenoid when key is in crank position.

Infidel's recommendation is supported by the above.

 

The fuel shut off solenoid has 2 coils... 1 coil is PULL IN, the other is HOLD IN... the PULL IN coil is connected thru the wire at the battery (it gets corroded and comes disconnected) mentioned above.