I have questions for the Pro's out there. I am approching the 30K mark on my 04 and am considering doing the trans service on my own. Dealer wants $150.00 for service. I have searched and did not find any topics for the 48re band adjustment procedure, I did find one for the 47re. Is the procedure the same?

 

You should not need to adjust bands with only 30k. Don't make them too tight, looser is better. You really should never have to adjust them, they would be worn out.

 

The adjustment on them is almost like a urban legend if you get my point.Flush the trans and leave the filter until 60 or 90k.

 

Iam going to take it to the dealer so if band brakes he can fix it.

 

How do you flush a 48RE?

 

Most shops have a flush machine.

 

Yea.. for your wallet

 

Yes,your correct! They do.

 

Since I tend to over maintain the truck, I had a dealer flush at 10K for I think $159. High, but not too bad since they use a lot of synthetic ATF. They also run a sovent through first. Definitely shifts better. Less lag on the 1 to 2 shift. I think I will get flush every other fluid change alternating with just the pan/filter.

I'll probably upgrade to aftermarket pan with drain and do them myself after warranty expires. I use to do my own flushes, but it gets messy in my garage.

Pete

 

Why not change the filter with each oil change? It is only every 30k and the filter isn't expensive?

 

I had a GM HD with an Allison. We would disconnect the line from the cooler and put a extension hose on it into a bucket.

Then we drain the pan an fill with the new fluid, starte the engine and let a gallon pump out. This drains the convertor. We added a gallon of new fluid and topped it off.

Could a similar thing be done with the 48Re?

 

Is the 47RE any different in terms of filter changes and adjustments? I've got an '03 SO, and don't tow. At 15k I added a MagnaHytec double deep pan and changed the filter and fluid. The dealer did a flush for the 30k service. Right now I'm at 45k, and wondering if I should bother to change the fluid and/or filter, and if adjusting the bands is necessary. Again, I don't tow and drive pretty gently. Just looking to do a little preventive maintenance on the trans. Cant afford a trans upgrade for a while, but don't mind spending a couple bucks on fluid and filter if it's worth it. Thoughts?
TP

 

If you flushed at 30k and DON"T tow I'd run fliud 30k.The ban adjust is kinda hogwash from days of old.(I'll run a chance over being flamed for that statement,buts its true and has been for eons)Filters are good for more then 30k these days.You've serviced more allready then LOTS do towing much less not.

 

Here it is:

48RE Band Adjustment

The bands are not difficult to adjust. You need to buy a new filter and pan gasket plus about 4 qts. of fluid will drain when you remove the pan. You will need an accurate Inch pound torque wrench, some Torx sockets and other metric sockets

The Front (kickdown) band adj. screw is on the L.H. side of the trans. just above the manual & throttle levers. To adjust loosen the locknut, turn screw a couple turns to make sure threads are clean and that screw turns freely. I can't remember the size of the Torx socket you will need here. Tighten to 72 "#. , Back screw off exactly 1- 3/4 turns. (Bill Kondolay said 2 turns) Hold screw in this position and tighten locknut.

The messy part is next. Remove oil pan so you can get to the adj. screw for the Rear (Low/Reverse) band. Loosen locknut and torque screw to 72"#. Back off 3 turns and tighten locknut. Bands are now adjusted to DC specs. Most Chrysler transmissions are all torqued to 72"# but the 'back off' is different on some others. I checked the 2003 Ram factory Service Manual to make sure I have the correct specs for the 48re.

I would always replace the filter when I removed the pan. Just remove the screws (2 -3) and pull filter off. Replace and tighten screws to 35"#. DO NOT over tighten as you could warp aluminum valve body. Torque on pan bolts is 125"#..
Add the specified ATF+4 (synthetic) fluid. Do not overfill.