betsycam

Okay, we muddled our way through our first tranny fluid/filter change, and I attempted to adjust the rear band while in there.... and regretted it!

Probably stupid questions, but:

1. Because we have to use an extension on the torque wrench to get in there, should we adjust the torque to reflect that, and to what?

Also the wrench we got is a 0 to 80 ft. lb. wrench, so we set it to 6 ft. lbs. for 72 in. lbs., assuming that is okay. Too expensive to own a ft. lb. wrench AND an in. lb. wrench!

2. When backing the adj. screw out three turns after using the torque wrench, what is the best way to accurately get three turns? It's too tight to back it out with a hand driver, so do you just use a regular ratchet wrench and add up your quarter turns?

3. When tightening the nut, they say to hold the adj. screw while torquing the nut to 25 ft.lbs. How are you supposed to hold the screw still while using the torque wrench with a socket for the nut?

Needless to say, when I took the truck for a minny test drive, it weren't good! So, we're starting over

zulusafari

On a B-727, I used to hold the set screw with a socket and breaker bar, while tightening with an "open end" socket on my inch pound torque wrench. The piece looked like a regular "open end" wrench head, with a socket hole under the jaws. I got a very nice In. Lb. socket wrench for ~$15.00 from NAPA 15 years ago for work on bicycles, small engines, etc. They really aren't that expensive, since they don't have such severe service or forces to measure. NOW--Step up to Pinion Nut work, and that bad boy will cost some coin!!!

Saw those open end pieces at JC Whitney -- were called crow foot wrench heads.