.boB

Yup, cracked. Suddenly I looked like a C-130 spraying Agent Orange. Unfortunately it happened in the middle of WY on a Saturday night. Couldn't get it fixed until Monday morning.

Anyway, the previously stated problem is that the line clamp gets loose, allows the line to vibrate, and then the line cracks. Under such great pressure, we get an immediate and massive fuel leak.

Over the last 4.5 years of ownership, I have very carefully checked that clamp every time I'v done any work under the hood. Last week I was doing oil and filter changes before a road trip, and checked it again. Nice and tight like it's supposed to be.

It happened after about 2,000 miles of driving over 8 days. When I removed the retainer bolt, the clamp fell off the line. It had worked loose and allowed the line to break, all in 2,000 miles.

I eventually had the truck towed to Fremont Dodge in Rock Springs, WY. Bob behind the counter knew the part number right off the top of his head. "I'v sold a lot of them". They had a few on the shelf. He even gave me a couple of tips for proper installation. Bob also told me the part had been redesigned twice trying to fix the problem.

It's a $67 part from the dealer (less at other places). It actually does take only 10 minutes to replace the part - I timed myself. And you can easily do it on the side of the road with minimal tools. But it also cost me two hotel nights, two long tows (thanx, AAA), one lost day of work, and two lost days from home with things to do. Spending a Sunday at Little America, WY, isn't bad, but it's not good either.

Here's the point, and here's my advice. If you look at the #4 fuel line and you see a clamp with a blue rubber isolater like the other 5 lines, replace it now. It's a ticking time bomb. The odds are good that it will fail at some point; and you could be stuck in a much worse situation than mine. For me it was an annoyance and a small expense. It could have been a lot worse. Imagine if the fuel had caught fire! Or if there had been a blizzard going on.

So, as soon as you can, pop the hood and look. If it's blue, it's got to go.

If you replaced the part a couple of years ago, you might consider replacing it again. Or at least carrying a spare. After being burned once, I might start carrying a spare. If I have a spare ready to install, that will guarantee it will never happen again.

47Dodge

I got a spare and some wrenchs with it under the seat on my truck.


47

rockcrawler304

I'm the same as you. I checked mine religiously every oil and or fuel filter change and pretty much any time I opened the hood for maintenance. It still got me!! Happened last summer and luckily I was close to the dealer ($67 also) and I changed it in a parking lot on a very windy day! Took about 15 minutes.

BigIron70

I always keep a fuel rail cap off tool in my tool box. Just in case you have a cracked injector or line. I had to use it today, crankcase filled with diesel fuel and oil pressure dropped to 0. Drained the oil, used temp sensor found the dead hole and capped off that injector. I added 12 quarts of oil and drove truck to my work area. Injector ordered will have tomorrow.

sojoe

I was under the impression that the #4 line was a problem primarily with the 06 model CTD. Seems that I was wrong again!

cdennyb

Curious if the '03's were prone to that failure as well. I have over 240K on mine without any issues {knock on the wood counter...}
If they are, I might just order one (Any help on the PN#?) and keep it bagged and tagged in the tool box.

.boB

Mine has PN 1-05086874AC on the box. I didn't bother to save the receipt.

EDR

After reading this post I knocked on wood and then call my nearest Cummins Service Center.

They have the current version of the #4 line for $25.62.

The parts guy also mentioned that the #5 line has been a problem and they sell it for $29.75.

I don't remember reading about problems with #5, but since I can get both lines shipped for the same price the dealers charge for the #4 line, its tough to pass it up.

Thanks for the reminder!

ChrisJohnson

Mine is the original, and I do carry a spare, but my spare one was purchased 4 or 5 years ago. I check mine every oil change, but now I might get my self a new line, and keep my old spare one as a spare for the spare! 110,000 miles, and no problems with the original line (yet)!

.boB

tick, tick, tick......

ssandlin

Question for the group....When you buy a new one today is it the same as the old one or has something been changed to prevent the clamp from giving way?

Another question, is replacement as simple as loosening the nuts on each end and removing the clamp, then reverse the procedure to install the new one?

John_P

-------------
ssandlin:

No Sir,....the new #4 is NOT the same as the old one and the part numbers are also different. The newer line has a different style clamp on it.

Replacement is easy just as you stated.

---------
John _P

.boB

The current part number is the 3rd or 4th iteration of this part. I don't know when this one hit the market, though.

Bob, at the dealership, gave me these instructions for installing the new part:
- Place the new line in position
- thread the flare nuts on a few turns by hand.
- Install the bracket bolt, and tighten with a 10mm socket
- Using a 3/4" open end or flare wrench, tighten the flare nuts to 27 ft/lbs.
-- that's kinda tight, but not TTYF

It took me exactly 10 minutes to R&R the line.

Vots

I picked up a replacement from Cummins on Friday, might as well change it before it goes out. It's a lot easier in the driveway than on the side of the highway!
When the parts guy saw my VA card he gave me 10% veterans discount, less than $26 out the door.
And the Cummins part number is 5289447.

Spooler

It was always #6 for the older trucks. 03-05'. Maybe I need to get some spare lines....