#4 injector line
08-19-2013, 07:24 AM
#16
There is no G. There is no G. Repeat after me, THERE IS NO G!
Thanks for the part number and reminder. We have a trip TX -> FL trip coming up and #4 was on my mind to pick up a spare. Mine has always had a tight insulator and I check it every time I open the hood. But .bob said his loosened over 2k of driving 
That might have tipped me over the edge to go get a new one and replace it in the driveway before we head out.
That might have tipped me over the edge to go get a new one and replace it in the driveway before we head out.
08-24-2013, 09:32 AM
#20
There is no G. There is no G. Repeat after me, THERE IS NO G!
Perhaps part numbers 5086874AC is MOPAR and 5289447 is CUMMINS?
The photo Geno's shows is of the new part. And a quick google seems to confirm that part number is correct. Geno's has a MUCH better price than the dealer (as if that is a surprise)
Oh well, I'll keep my overpriced line and get it installed as I'm on a tight timeline. But the rest of yous out there, looks like buying from Geno's would be the way to go to save a little money.
The photo Geno's shows is of the new part. And a quick google seems to confirm that part number is correct. Geno's has a MUCH better price than the dealer (as if that is a surprise)
Oh well, I'll keep my overpriced line and get it installed as I'm on a tight timeline. But the rest of yous out there, looks like buying from Geno's would be the way to go to save a little money.
08-24-2013, 12:15 PM
#22
Registered User
Thank you Shorts for the pic. My spare # 4 line is the old style. I'll be ordering the newer style shortly. As I said before, I'll keep my older style spare as a spare for the spare!
08-28-2013, 09:51 AM
#23
There is no G. There is no G. Repeat after me, THERE IS NO G!
The current part number is the 3rd or 4th iteration of this part. I don't know when this one hit the market, though.
Bob, at the dealership, gave me these instructions for installing the new part:
- Place the new line in position
- thread the flare nuts on a few turns by hand.
- Install the bracket bolt, and tighten with a 10mm socket
- Using a 3/4" open end or flare wrench, tighten the flare nuts to 27 ft/lbs.
-- that's kinda tight, but not TTYF
It took me exactly 10 minutes to R&R the line.
Bob, at the dealership, gave me these instructions for installing the new part:
- Place the new line in position
- thread the flare nuts on a few turns by hand.
- Install the bracket bolt, and tighten with a 10mm socket
- Using a 3/4" open end or flare wrench, tighten the flare nuts to 27 ft/lbs.
-- that's kinda tight, but not TTYF
It took me exactly 10 minutes to R&R the line.
Going outside to replace the line now. Do I use the existing bolt that is on the truck now? The new line did not come with any hardware. I haven't popped the hood yet so forgive the elementary inquiry
Edit. Just looked at it. I use the bolt that hold the stock bracket to the head cover.
10-02-2013, 11:10 AM
#24
My #4 failed on Sept 25th on I-40 west of Amarillo. Cummins dealer charged $24.90 + sales tax. Part #5289447.
Failed with about 80k on the odometer - truck is 2005 1-ton.
As others have said, yes, it's an easy R & R. I didn't have a torque wrench so just made it good and tight. So far, with another 2k miles, no problem.
Question: Yes, we all agree #4 is the one most likely to fail - but what's the next most likely to go? Sure hope it's not #6 - that would be a nightmare. Wonder if Cummins keeps stats on parts sold?
I'd like to carry some spares - but which ones should I carry? All of them?
Meantime, those with similar mileage, highly recommend you change out #4 if you haven't done so already!
Failed with about 80k on the odometer - truck is 2005 1-ton.
As others have said, yes, it's an easy R & R. I didn't have a torque wrench so just made it good and tight. So far, with another 2k miles, no problem.
Question: Yes, we all agree #4 is the one most likely to fail - but what's the next most likely to go? Sure hope it's not #6 - that would be a nightmare. Wonder if Cummins keeps stats on parts sold?
I'd like to carry some spares - but which ones should I carry? All of them?
Meantime, those with similar mileage, highly recommend you change out #4 if you haven't done so already!
10-02-2013, 01:06 PM
#25
Registered User
I just replaced my #4 injector, wish I'd had the new #4 line on-hand to swap out while I had the original one disconnected. Oh well, quick swap.
Funny thing is, I noticed the insulator on #5 is M.I.A. Once I get the new #4 line, I should probably move the insulator from my old #4 line to #5, huh?
Funny thing is, I noticed the insulator on #5 is M.I.A. Once I get the new #4 line, I should probably move the insulator from my old #4 line to #5, huh?
10-02-2013, 01:45 PM
#26
Administrator
My #4 failed on Sept 25th on I-40 west of Amarillo. Cummins dealer charged $24.90 + sales tax. Failed with about 80k on the odometer - truck is 2005 1-ton.
As others have said, yes, it's an easy R & R. I didn't have a torque wrench so just made it good and tight. So far, with another 2k miles, no problem.
Question: Yes, we all agree #4 is the one most likely to fail - but what's the next most likely to go? Sure hope it's not #6 - that would be a nightmare. Wonder if Cummins keeps stats on parts sold?
I'd like to carry some spares - but which ones should I carry? All of them?
Meantime, those with similar mileage, highly recommend you change out #4 if you haven't done so already!
As others have said, yes, it's an easy R & R. I didn't have a torque wrench so just made it good and tight. So far, with another 2k miles, no problem.
Question: Yes, we all agree #4 is the one most likely to fail - but what's the next most likely to go? Sure hope it's not #6 - that would be a nightmare. Wonder if Cummins keeps stats on parts sold?
I'd like to carry some spares - but which ones should I carry? All of them?
Meantime, those with similar mileage, highly recommend you change out #4 if you haven't done so already!
You asked "which injector line would be the next to go?" In my opinion,....keep a close eye on #6!!
Yes,.....#6!! How do I know that? Because after my #4 failed my Dodge Technician found that the #6 was cracked too and getting ready to blow fuel everywhere! I have a 2006 Dodge CTD CR with about 165,000 miles on it now but the lines failed at around 150,000. And your right, the #6 is alot harder to change than #4 but at least we were able to do it in an air conditioned shop and not on the side of an interstate in 95 degree heat!
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John_P
11-02-2013, 06:07 PM
#27
Registered User
Just changed my #4 today out of safety,as I drive to work at 5am and there's no way I'm fixing that on the side of a pitch black road at 5 in the morning especially with winter coming.#6 looks like a nightmare to change.fingers crossed it doesn't need to be changed.PS mine wouldn't run after i changed #4 i guess i loosened the tube when i changed it and didn't tighten it back up enough ,had me sweating for a few while i googled it on my phone.Snugged it up and she started right up fine.
11-04-2013, 11:32 AM
#28
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I noticed the smell of diesel coming from under the hood and it was a super-slow leak of some kind. I had this before and it was the fuel filter cap had come loose and tightening it fixed it up, but this time that cap was plenty tight. I checked the fuel injector tube nuts at the head and at the fuel rail and the #4 (head) bolt was just a little loose. Not very loose, but I was able to turn it to tight by about 1/8 turn. Does anybody think that was enough to allow a very slow leak there? Like I said, I tightened it to what roughly felt like 22ft/lb (from my DTR-SM). It's raining today so I won't know if that fixed it yet.
11-04-2013, 12:19 PM
#29
Administrator
I noticed the smell of diesel coming from under the hood and it was a super-slow leak of some kind. I had this before and it was the fuel filter cap had come loose and tightening it fixed it up, but this time that cap was plenty tight. I checked the fuel injector tube nuts at the head and at the fuel rail and the #4 (head) bolt was just a little loose. Not very loose, but I was able to turn it to tight by about 1/8 turn. Does anybody think that was enough to allow a very slow leak there? Like I said, I tightened it to what roughly felt like 22ft/lb (from my DTR-SM). It's raining today so I won't know if that fixed it yet.
grishfish:
Yes, if the line was loose it could cause the fuel leak. There is alot of pressure going through those lines.
But,....if I were you I would take that line off and THOROUGHLY inspect the very end of it that connects to the injector/connector tube. Sometimes the cracks are very hard to see.
11-04-2013, 12:29 PM
#30
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I've got a #4 injector line on order, and I'll see later today if it's still leaking (when it stops raining). I figure it's done well to last 95K miles, but hopefully that little tightening tweak will fix it.