Thanks for the part number and reminder. We have a trip TX -> FL trip coming up and #4 was on my mind to pick up a spare. Mine has always had a tight insulator and I check it every time I open the hood. But .bob said his loosened over 2k of driving That might have tipped me over the edge to go get a new one and replace it in the driveway before we head out.

 

Just picked up the new #4 line.

PN: 5086874AC

$60.85 +tax

12mth warranty w/receipt

 

Yup, that's exactly the one I used. It really is a 10 minute job. Wish I had done it in my drive way.

 

Geno's offers the #4 line for $26.00. They list the pn# as 5289447?

 

Perhaps part numbers 5086874AC is MOPAR and 5289447 is CUMMINS?

The photo Geno's shows is of the new part. And a quick google seems to confirm that part number is correct. Geno's has a MUCH better price than the dealer (as if that is a surprise)

Oh well, I'll keep my overpriced line and get it installed as I'm on a tight timeline. But the rest of yous out there, looks like buying from Geno's would be the way to go to save a little money.

 

The important thing is you've got the new part in. I need to swap mine out and keep the old one for a spare.

 

Thank you Shorts for the pic. My spare # 4 line is the old style. I'll be ordering the newer style shortly. As I said before, I'll keep my older style spare as a spare for the spare!

 

Going outside to replace the line now. Do I use the existing bolt that is on the truck now? The new line did not come with any hardware. I haven't popped the hood yet so forgive the elementary inquiry

Edit. Just looked at it. I use the bolt that hold the stock bracket to the head cover.

 

My #4 failed on Sept 25th on I-40 west of Amarillo. Cummins dealer charged $24.90 + sales tax. Part #5289447.

Failed with about 80k on the odometer - truck is 2005 1-ton.

As others have said, yes, it's an easy R & R. I didn't have a torque wrench so just made it good and tight. So far, with another 2k miles, no problem.

Question: Yes, we all agree #4 is the one most likely to fail - but what's the next most likely to go? Sure hope it's not #6 - that would be a nightmare. Wonder if Cummins keeps stats on parts sold?

I'd like to carry some spares - but which ones should I carry? All of them?

Meantime, those with similar mileage, highly recommend you change out #4 if you haven't done so already!

 

I just replaced my #4 injector, wish I'd had the new #4 line on-hand to swap out while I had the original one disconnected. Oh well, quick swap.

Funny thing is, I noticed the insulator on #5 is M.I.A. Once I get the new #4 line, I should probably move the insulator from my old #4 line to #5, huh?

 

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You asked "which injector line would be the next to go?" In my opinion,....keep a close eye on #6!! Yes,.....#6!!

How do I know that? Because after my #4 failed my Dodge Technician found that the #6 was cracked too and getting ready to blow fuel everywhere! I have a 2006 Dodge CTD CR with about 165,000 miles on it now but the lines failed at around 150,000. And your right, the #6 is alot harder to change than #4 but at least we were able to do it in an air conditioned shop and not on the side of an interstate in 95 degree heat!

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John_P

 

Just changed my #4 today out of safety,as I drive to work at 5am and there's no way I'm fixing that on the side of a pitch black road at 5 in the morning especially with winter coming.#6 looks like a nightmare to change.fingers crossed it doesn't need to be changed.PS mine wouldn't run after i changed #4 i guess i loosened the tube when i changed it and didn't tighten it back up enough ,had me sweating for a few while i googled it on my phone.Snugged it up and she started right up fine.

 

I noticed the smell of diesel coming from under the hood and it was a super-slow leak of some kind. I had this before and it was the fuel filter cap had come loose and tightening it fixed it up, but this time that cap was plenty tight. I checked the fuel injector tube nuts at the head and at the fuel rail and the #4 (head) bolt was just a little loose. Not very loose, but I was able to turn it to tight by about 1/8 turn. Does anybody think that was enough to allow a very slow leak there? Like I said, I tightened it to what roughly felt like 22ft/lb (from my DTR-SM). It's raining today so I won't know if that fixed it yet.

 

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grishfish:

Yes, if the line was loose it could cause the fuel leak. There is alot of pressure going through those lines.

But,....if I were you I would take that line off and THOROUGHLY inspect the very end of it that connects to the injector/connector tube. Sometimes the cracks are very hard to see.

 

I've got a #4 injector line on order, and I'll see later today if it's still leaking (when it stops raining). I figure it's done well to last 95K miles, but hopefully that little tightening tweak will fix it.