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2004 runs for 2 min then dies

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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 03:44 PM
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From: Claremont, NH
2004 runs for 2 min then dies

I am helping a friend work on his 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9 liter H.O.
This truck will run for about 2 minutes then it dies. If we let it sit for 1 or 2 minutes it will start and run for another 2 minutes. We have replace the injection pump with the FCA, the Fuel pressure switch and the limiting valve.
When the truck runs with the DRB3 hooked up we have 2amps showing for the FCA, the amperage drops and when it hits 0 the fuel pressure drops until it hits 0 and the truck dies. Any ideas on this one
Thanks
Eric
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 06:28 AM
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From: Midlothian, TX
Do you have good flow from the lift pump?
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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From: Kerrville eastern new mexico, west texas
check your fuel pressure from the lp first
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 06:09 PM
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Thanks guys, I just got involved with this yesterday. It is now at my shop. I will bring it in on Monday and check fuel volume and pressure from the lift pump. I will post my findings next week.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 04:44 PM
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Ok I have 6 lbs of fuel pressure at idle. I do not loose the pressure until after the truck dies. It dies like the key is shut off and it gets worse with temperature increasing. First start outside it will run for 30 minutes or so, next start 15minutes, when at operating temperature 2 minutes. I was thinking crank sensor but the truck will run with it unpluged. P0463 is the only code set and that is fuel level sensor circuit high. I also have 14 lbs of boost on the scan tool all the time (truck running or not even at idle).
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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Fuel gelled or water in fuel turned to ice?
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 06:43 PM
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Drain the water drain on the canister, see what the fuel looks like, probably going to have to change the fuel filter too... Does the truck have the canister mounted fuel pump? These are known for taking a crap...

Like Bill said, it could be gelled fuel, there is a fuel heater in the canister, but it may not be warming it fast enough. Drain some fuel from the water drain after it cuts off, see if you are getting anything.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by madhat
Drain the water drain on the canister, see what the fuel looks like, probably going to have to change the fuel filter too... Does the truck have the canister mounted fuel pump? These are known for taking a crap...

Like Bill said, it could be gelled fuel, there is a fuel heater in the canister, but it may not be warming it fast enough. Drain some fuel from the water drain after it cuts off, see if you are getting anything.
I have a clear hose between the filter and the injection pump. The fuel looks good. It is also in a heated garage, it is 75 deg in here. The colder the truck is the longer it runs. Outside at 8 degrees it will run for a 1/2 hour, inside at 75 degrees it will run for 15 minutes, at operating temp it will only run for 2 or 3 minutes. I am thinking electronics and heat. The fuel filter is new and the lift pump does work. Next???
Thanks
Eric
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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Codes?
How to...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=224833
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 02:26 AM
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No it sounds like a relay is week, and when it is warming up it is opening, I would start there first. Does not sound like a fuel problem to me. The engine is its own system, I would start with the truck wiring, not the engine ECM!!!
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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Here is an update on this head ache.
1. I have 14 lbs of boost all the time, even with the truck not running.
2. With a Snap-on Modis hooked it shows fuel pressure at 4834 and fuel set at 8627. I can graph these and watch the pressure drop. When the pressure drops to 2187 and the fuel set drops to 2172 the truck stops running. The truck will start right back up, but every time The fuel pressure is lower than the time before and the stall time is sooner.
I am going to see if I can borrow a fuel pressure gauge to check rail pressure in the morning.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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From: Claremont, NH
Originally Posted by VFIMechanic
No it sounds like a relay is week, and when it is warming up it is opening, I would start there first. Does not sound like a fuel problem to me. The engine is its own system, I would start with the truck wiring, not the engine ECM!!!
I have the Chrysler repair manual (right from the dealer) and Alldata for this truck and from what I can see the only information this gets from the truck is 12v, ground, and key on 12v. Everything to make this truck run is done from the engine mounted computer and it was replaced at the dealer with a new one and still has the same problem. What am I missing??
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 06:31 AM
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I dunno if this fits, but my friend has his 2004.5 (600 engine), doing something similar. It would just cut off randomly but start right back up. It would do this intermittently. He had one situation where he had to restart it 10 time just to back into a driveway. It was ridiculous. The dealer went though the crank sensor, cam sensor and all of the wiring, including the wire for the AC pressure that rubs through on the AC line near the compressor. Everything was OK. DC said ECM. My friend got a reflashed ECM from a fellow in FL who does ECM reflashes and installed it on his truck. He said the truck has never run so good. Besides no longer having the shut off problem his low and mid-range power have gone up dramatically, and this is a stock flash. He said it's like a different truck now. Cost him about 600.00, with ECM exchange.
If you think this is similar enough to your problem, let me know and I will get more info on the reflash guy, if others here don't already have the info.

Chris
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 07:37 AM
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how dang cold is it up in NH right now ? fuel gellin is at top of my guess list......
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:04 AM
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From: Claremont, NH
Originally Posted by Stamey
I dunno if this fits, but my friend has his 2004.5 (600 engine), doing something similar. It would just cut off randomly but start right back up. It would do this intermittently. He had one situation where he had to restart it 10 time just to back into a driveway. It was ridiculous. The dealer went though the crank sensor, cam sensor and all of the wiring, including the wire for the AC pressure that rubs through on the AC line near the compressor. Everything was OK. DC said ECM. My friend got a reflashed ECM from a fellow in FL who does ECM reflashes and installed it on his truck. He said the truck has never run so good. Besides no longer having the shut off problem his low and mid-range power have gone up dramatically, and this is a stock flash. He said it's like a different truck now. Cost him about 600.00, with ECM exchange.
If you think this is similar enough to your problem, let me know and I will get more info on the reflash guy, if others here don't already have the info.

Chris
New computer with new flash in this truck and it is still broken. Dealer did that first.
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