m-o-p-a-r

So far from the links I have learned that the red-wire/plug I am holding in my last pic is actually the field charge for the alternator, and I found the pin-out for the FCM.

m-o-p-a-r

Tonight I managed to dissect the TIPM feed terminal so I can build a new cable:



(easier said than done!)
Soo, does anybody know off the top of their head how many amps a 16ga fusable link is rated at?
I used to have a handy chart from an old Chrysler FSM that listed values. But, I seem to have lost it.

I guess I could google, but my brain is too dang tired right now LOL.

m-o-p-a-r

Also, why does it look like the starter is impossible to remove?!!!!

Somebody please tell me I don't have to remove the tranny fluid cooler lines just to pull the starter.


Another thing I found while I was under there poking around tonight. There is a ground-strap attached to a stud welded to the drivers side floor pan in the tranny tunnel.
It is broken off at the other end. I would assume the other end should be on a bell-housing bolt?


I don't see a ring-terminal on any bolt within reach of this strap.


I am not familiar with 3rd-gens at all, so I am learning as I go here. There are grounds everywhere on this truck!


So far, I love driving it. And, hate working on it. The exact opposite of my first-gens! LOL

PWong

According to diagram 8W-20-3 and 8W-20-4, the RD wire runs from driver side battery(+) to IPM then to Fusible link then to ECM. This is the main power feed to ECM.

Another RD wire runs from Aux (passenger side) battery (+) to Fusible link then to alternator armature (BK/GY wire).
The BR/GY wire is the field control from ECM to alterator.

I have no answers for all your other questions.

m-o-p-a-r

Welp, today I learned that all the main wiring harness's for my truck are obsolete. Isn't that wonderful! Some of the pigtails are available. Some aren't.
I hate to be a dudley-downer, but, this is the point where my mind is pretty much made up that this rig needs to move on to a new owner.
I will fix mechanical issues until my pockets are bled dry. I don't mind spinning wrenches at all.
And, building the new cables doesn't bother me either. As a matter of fact I enjoy it.

But! Troubleshooting electrical gremlins? Nope, I hate it. That is where I draw the line.

Problem is: now that I spent $3k on injectors, I am upside-down on the truck.

Been a long-long time since I owned a truck I hated. I guess I had it coming
Why couldn't these issues have reared their heads on the test-drive?

m-o-p-a-r

I ordered a new TIPM today. I don't think that is going to solve my T-case shifting issues. But, I do think it will solve the lighting, and horn issues.
Not to mention, one of the tabs that lock in to the battery-box were broken off.
The little arm that sticks out the side of the battery box that the TIPM sits on was also broken off. So while I was at it I ordered a battery box as well.

I am going to finish up the cables. Give all seven connectors that plug in the bottom of the TIPM a good cleaning. As best I can. And put this bird back together, and see what happens.

If the issues are solved, I am 90% sure the for-sale sign goes in the window.
Unfortunately, with 285k on the ticker, I will never break even now.

NJMurvin

Sorry for your troubles. I assume you've searched and seen this, but here it is anyway. It sounds like Lost Lake had the same or similar issue and solved it. Maybe you can PM him and get more details.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ts-own-307082/

m-o-p-a-r

YUP, I have read that thread several times now. He is a little vague in his explanation of where his connector issues actually were. But, I am pretty sure, it ended up being one of the connectors under the TIPM.

I need to get the starter out of my way, so I can see. But, from what I can see now, it looks like the tranny/T-case harness plugs in to the two plugs on the fire-wall next to the hydro-boost unit. And, ultimately again, under the TIPM.

Yet, I can barely see another leg of a harness (pretty large plastic conduit) that looks to branch off the tranny/T-case harness, that runs down behind the starter by the tranny heat-exchanger, and dis-appears? That is the one that has me confused.

What has me really disappointed is that the tranny/T-case harness is obsolete ( p/n 56057626AA). When it was available it was $682.95. I would much rather spend that coin and be done with this, than spend the time trouble-shooting and scabbing repairs to a worn-out harness. Time is very valuable to me. I bought this truck to use when I do get some spare time, recreating with the wife. Not, work on it, ignoring the wife. That is why it has me quite irate! It has already in one way or another consumed the last 6 weekends in entirety.

I am aware there is an ever so slight possibility that these issues could be related to the poor power distribution (battery cables) and or TIPM. That is why I am going to finish fixing those issues, and go over every grounding point I can find. To eliminate those possible issues.

If the T-case shifting issues persist, there is a good chance my floor will grow a lever (the way it should be!)

m-o-p-a-r

By the way: Thanks! for the input guys. It helps a lot.

m-o-p-a-r

I managed to spend a little time on some of the prep work tonight.
I got a new length of 4ga. soldered to the factory TIPM feed terminal:



Factory looked to be 6ga (maybe even 8ga?). I doubt it needs to be 4ga, but it wont hurt. And I had it on hand already.

Then I spliced a new length of 12ga to the ECM feed terminal:



Notice the small strand tied around the bundle to keep it tight?
And here are both wrapped up:



I think those are the only two factory parts I needed to "save".
Should be good to go for quite a while now. I just need to grab a 16ga fusable-link tomorrow, and splice it in that ECM feed.

The only nuisance step left (that I know of yet), is remove the starter.
I am hoping to be able to knock out all the heavy cables tomorrow.
Each battery is going to get 3 grounds.
One to the engine.
One to the frame.
One to the body.
And, I may add a 4th on one side to the fire-wall.
Or maybe that stud on the floor-pan that has the broken strap on it right now? I have tons of wire.

All the heavy ground and power cables will be 2/0 pure copper welding cable with copper lugs. Crimped in a hammer crimper, and shrink wrapped.
The crossover power cable will be 1/0ga.
The charge wire will be 1/0ga. I know it is supposed to have a fusable-link in it. But, I think it is going to be omitted.
And, the frame and body grounds will be 4ga.

Most of that is dictated by the fact that I already have a ton of materials on hand already leftover from projects years ago.
Like the 4ga. body grounds. Way over-kill. But, I have 100ft of pure-copper 4ga. and boxes of copper lugs already. So, I am going to use it!

I know from my tone in this thread, you would think I hate everything electrical, LOL.
Not true. I actually really enjoy it. It is very time consuming to do it right. That is a bummer.
And, I like to do it right. So, it takes me a while.
But, it is soothing to me for some reason? I don't get it? (I like running copper water/air lines too).

It is trouble-shooting over-complicated systems that I hate with a passion.

m-o-p-a-r

Got the starter out. It would be impossible to get out without a jack.
But, jack the drivers front corner up 5-6" and it slips right out between the diff and oil pan.
No biggie. The top bolt was the worst part, and it was easy.

m-o-p-a-r

found this upon removing the alternator charge wire:



Was rubbing on a boost tube clamp. That could have been interesting!

Here is the crimper I use for the larger lugs:



It is the blue thingy. I got it from Grainger. Paid way to much, but needed it that day. You can get the same tool for about half price off ebay. Works fantastic. Makes super tight crimps.

I got all the cables built today. As soon as the new TIPM lands, I will put this terd back together, and see what gremlins remain.

m-o-p-a-r

As much as I loath this truck right now, and it has only been parked for a week, I miss it already.
That is only because I hate the wife's 2004 Ford F150 Lariat S-crew (which is actually a really nice truck), and our 2010 Camaro.
I find the Ford to be extremely uncomfortable, and the Camaro feels like a noisy plastic toy, and drives me nuts.
I will take my big Dodge iron thank-you very much.

Jhenderson0524

Just for reference, your truck doesn't have a tipm. Next take the fcm off again, clean all the terminals with electrical cleaner and a small, fine wire brush. Then using small needle nose pliers put a slight twist on every pin in the fcm and reinstall. It helped me.

m-o-p-a-r

The dealer refered to it as the "integrated power module". Part# 5026031AB to be exact. I found numerous Google references calling it a TIPM. Would you prefer I called it a fuse box?
Regardless, thanks for the tip of twisting the terminals. That was my next step. I am afraid that is what I am going to find myself doing to fix the "ghost shifting". Un-plugging every connector that has T-case shift wiring in it, and tweaking stuff until I find the bad connection.