Hey folks, I think I lost the slave cylinder tonight. Just got back from a trip this afternoon, no issues noted, parked the truck. Three hours later went 2 miles to pick up something at the drive through for the wife, truck lurched with the clutch depressed, lots of squealing and chirping going on. Got out of the drive through and it was difficult to get into gear. Pumped the clutch peddle a few times and it shifted normally for 3-4 shifts then back to not fully dis-engaging. Got home and checked the fluid reservoir and it was empty, a week ago it was full.

I'm pretty comfortable thinking it's the slave cylinder but I'll look closer in the daylight tomorrow. I really need the tips and tricks for this project as I can't seem to find much info. Thanks in advance!

 

They sell a complete master/slave set, sealed, and when you install it, it doesn't need bleeding. I think it was around $112 2-3 years ago.

 

Try the attachment...it looks to be very easy. I'd also suggest the upgraded assembly from either Valair or Southbend.

Click here and scroll to near the bottom of the page

 

Thanks guys! Right this moment I'm probably going to have to just replace the slave. Adaminak the pdf helped me, now I know I don't need to cut the strap. All I have to figure out is how to bleed the thing and I'm good, I think......

 

Bad news, not the slave cylinder. I guess it's time for a clutch.

 

Sorry man, but if I can make a suggestion, do the slave cylinder upgrade at the same time, no matter what clutch you buy. I've been fighting inconsistent engagement ever since I installed my new clutch, and while I'm sure it's the slave assembly, I just haven't had time to replace it.

 

Bad news again. I discovered the problem Friday night about 1900hrs. I needed the truck ready to leave by 0300 on Monday so my only option was a dealer unit. Besides that one complete assembly at the dealer there was only one slave cylinder available on the shelf in all of B'ham, at any part store or warehouse. By the time you added tax to it the price was more than half the cost of buying the complete, full of fluid, no bleeding necessary dealer unit. Oh well.....

 

Sometimes ya just can't catch a break! Hopefully the new hydros are strong enough to take the new pressure plate. I think mine would have been if it were new, but 7yrs and 100K miles take a toll.

 

Roger that. I don't see the need for me to get a big double disk or anything that radical. The stocker did what I needed it to.

 

I forgot to follow up on this thread. I ended up ordering a new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel from Lary (thanks buddy!) so when I dropped everything down I could go right back together. After disassembling everything, had there been an access cover on the bottom of the bell housing, I could have fixed the problem with a couple cans of brake cleaner. The throw out bearing slides on the tube that surrounds the input shaft. That tube was gummed up and not allowing the throw out bearing to fully release. Boy did I feel dumb when, after pulling everything apart, I made it work again with a little brake cleaner. Did I mention I really like the way my Southbend clutch holds the Smarty!

 

It's always the simple things that we overlook so easily that makes us sick when we finally figure it out. Glad to hear you got here working. Southbend makes a really good clutch! I had a Con OFE that was flawless for several years until the center section started coming loose. Went back with a Valair unit because money was an issue at the time and so far both units have worked very well.

 

The only complaint I have with the SB is it's a little too grabby.

 

My old SB unit was grabby as well......especially in reverse. The Valair unit I'm using now is the full ceramic jobber and WOW....grabby is an understatement!!!!! But, like they say...you gotta pay to play.