Just wanted to put an informative post on the form as I serched and couldnt find the information I was looking for prior to performing this work and fixing problems.

I was experiencing a low speed driveline shake when typically pulling out from a dead stop and turning either left or right (although sometimes it would do it on a straight pull). I started with changing the rear axle oil thinking it was in there and the anti-spin differential was tight, then the transfer case oil (btw, my output shaft from the transfer case is "seeping oil"), then the transmission. Bottom line the maintenance didnt stop or reduce the low speed pull-out vibration.

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So I have been collecting parts to rebuild my front axle, I knew I needed u-joints and I was looking for a warmer rainy day (as opposed to any sunny day or day during the winter), but also figured I would need hubs; so I purchased OE rotors and OE brake pads as well to simply complete the job.

What I found is my rotors were pretty much rusted fast to the hubs (have 99,500 miles on the rig) so I just pulled the complete rotor and hubs as an assembly to save time. (threw them out but kept the ABS sensors).

Another 'time save tip' I found is the axles in the front differential are "floating" and "clipless" so you can simply pull the axles through the steeing knucles without draining the oil or pulling the cover.

Anywho.

What is important here is my drivers side hub (although not bad) had a rough spot in it when you would spin it by hand. I knew the u-joint was clicking, but didnt realize the hub was spoiling. The u-joint had several broken needle bearings. The hub was still tight, just making "scraping" sounds like it ran dry or something.

Anyway, the bottom line is, either the hub or u-joint was causing the binding I was having during pull-out from a stop which seemed to come from the rear axle or transfer case and neither one of the parts were "loose"(or in other words had any play in them). Must have been resonating through the entire frame.

Also, the front steering knuckes take 464 Presicion Heavy-Duty greasable u-joints the rear drive shaft takes 351 Precision Heavy-Duty greasable u-joint (ones in the rear shaft are now in there 60,000 miles and have several long pulls on them). They fit perfect.

I press all my u-joints in with a very-large manual-vice (2x12" jaws and 36" arm - probably has 10 ton of force at the jaws with 200 pounds on the 36" arm and it took my whole weight to break the u-joints from the axle yokes). I press slowly making sure the caps go in square the the u-joint is free to move. Clip them in place, then push the caps back out to seat against the clips (push against the opposing yoke or caps). This is the best way to make a freely piviting u-joint and take the stress off the caps for long term use (at least what I found).

FYI (and this is a dig against my dealer and not the Precision U-joints): I had the dealer put the first set of 351's in as OE/warranty dodge u-joints were 4-6 weeks out at that point (backordered and I needed the rig). They must have crushed them as on my first pull afterwords they overheated and were ruined (lasted about 1000miles and I grease u-joints each time I pull). Since I installed the second set or the Precision Joints, the 351's are running perfectly (like I noted, 60,ooo miles on them and several long pulls) I think the additional attention to detail I put on installing the u-joint makes them last(see paragraph above) as tolerances are tight! (probably to keep them from causing vibration).

Finally, when I reassembled the hub in knuckle and rotor on the hub I used plenty of antiseize, to the point where you'd think I was packing a hub bearing. Also used red lock tite on the 18mm bolts which hold the caliper arm and hub in place. Blue lock tite on the differential covers and caliper bolts. Used Pennzoil Synthethic 75/90 oil in the axles.

Took my pop and I about 6 hours work time to do the job (both sides). 8 with lunch and beer brakes .

Here's to the next 100,000 miles

Rahn.

PS: the hub puller from Quad 4x4 worked great. It is made of 1/2" thick plate and fits many 4wd vehicles. I can say that pulling those dodge hubs from the splined axle shafts bent the 1/2" plate and the lug studs on the old hub. I had my 3/4" ratchet drive breaker bar on it (about 50" long) to break the hubs loose from the axles!!!

 

Thank for the post I hope this helps solve my vibration issue