2006 with 82250miles

Don't know where to start..I will go back a little bit...
AC quite last spring. Had to have the whole system replaced. Last fall,, it started blowing cold air out of driver side, hot out of passenger side vents. Then,, i had to have the whole front end rebuilt.... and now the engine is acting up... ugh...
I started noticing it a few days after I changed the oil.. like a little more rattling than normal. It has became very noticeable going down the road and sounds like a gasser with a timing problem. I have noticed it does not do it as bad until it is at operating temperature. And, when in neutrel, rev the engine up to around 1800, it pops and sputters. Not like it is falling on its face,, just noticeable. You can feel the truck shake. I have been told injectors,, read about the lift pump a little, and seen the thread about the wiring by the ac compressor which got me excited since I had just changed the oil. I do not see any wires bare/touching anything but there are a few nicks here and there. I took it to the dealer last Tuesday. They checked for codes and there were none. The check engine light has never came on. We drove it and he started to hear the noise about the time we got back to the shop. He mentioned checking the valves.. He reved the engine like I was saying and heard the popping/missing. He hooked up his puter thingy and started to cut the injectors one at a time. He thought that 5 and 6 were less of a change but i thought they were the same. He started cutting injectors out randomly and all the sudden said there it is,, your ecm is bad... i guess the code for that came up all the sudden. I honestly figured that doing the test would show a code but maybe not.. anyone know? Anyway,, ECM is $1850.00 and i am worried it will not fix it. It seems to be getting worse fairly quick though. If anyone can help, I sure would appreciate it. This thing is becoming a money pit all the sudden and it isn't suppose to even be broke in before 100,000...

Thanks abunch,
MO Boy

 

Make darn sure that the wiring by the AC is in tact. The area down with brake parts cleaner, then re-wrap the wires with electrical tape, cover and zip tie with split loom tubing. What it's sounding like is a timing issue cause by said short.

 

code will come up when doing injector kill test, comes up all the time when I run that test, clear the code nothing to worry about. most likely one or more injectors are bad, they need to run test for injector % of contribution which will show if injectors are working at 100%.

 

Sounds like an injector issue. I was just there. Had all 6 rebuilt and tips upgraded.

 

there are two plugs to the injectors the pins are inline with each other and 6 pins. with three injectors on each one. check each one with a ohm meter. you should see about 0.4 ohms if you see over 1 the solenoid is bad

 

This isnt entirely true....I just did this same thing and every single one of my injectors ohmed from .9 to 1.9 After getting the truck looked at, there are no issues with my injectors or coils. All I read was that the ohms need to read from .2 to .5, and anything over that is a bad coil/injector. First hand experience says thats not the case, and i think it depends on the meter used aswell!

 

Yeah, I wouldn't consider any fault code valid if it was triggered while I had control of the module.

 

I talked with STAR (chrysler tech support) they agreed with me on code coming up while doing injector kill test is just erroneus code, just clear the code.

 

short the leads togather and jot down the reading now check the reading and subtract the shorted reading. if it still comes up over 1 on several, get a better meter.

 

I agree with Carl get a better meter. Good injectors usually .2ohms