Need help figuring out why my truck wont start.

Let me start by saying that the other day I had two codes pop up while driving home. I tried to pass a guy that wouldnt let me over, and the truck went into limp mode and the check engine light came on.

Pulled off the freeway as soon as I could, pulled over, and read the codes and cleared them so I could hopefully start the truck and get home. The codes were P1249-Fuel Injector Group B Supply Voltage Circuit/Open, and P0205-Injector Circuit/Open-Cyclinder 5. Truck started just fine after the codes were cleared and I was able to drive home normally. These codes have come up on the truck twice before this, and after clearing them, I have always been able to drive fine. Previously, the truck was tuned with a DiabloSport Predator, so I thought that maybe the tuner was screwing with the truck. This time it happened, the truck was stock.

I suspected that the solenoid on top of injector #5 was going bad. So, the truck was pulled into the driveway, still ran fine, the solenoid was pulled off of injector #5, and inspected. Solenoid looked, and tested fine. Somebody figured that it would be a good idea to take that solenoid and switch it with the solenoid on the top of Injector #2. So this was done, everything put back together and valves adjusted. Figure that if the truck popped the codes up when I got on it hard next time and it came on for Injector group A, and cyl #2, then the solenoid was in fact bad and I can buy a new solenoid and replace it.

So, suspected bad solenoid in now on top of the injector in cyl #2, and number 2's solenoid in on injector #5. Valves are adjusted, everything reassembled and put back together and plugged in. Truck cranks only, but does not run.

Now my truck that was running perfectly fine when in was pulled into the driveway doesn't run. So, the only thing that was messed with, was undone, figuring that everything on each injector is calibrated to the rest of the injector. Number 5's solenoid was put back, and number 2's solenoid was put back, both where they came from.

Truck still cranks and does not start or run.

I need help guys. Im very frustrated with this and am ready to off this truck. My dad thinks that the ECM may have fried, but I wouldnt know of any way to test or verify this. Any other help or ideas would be appreciated.

 

Did you try capping off those 2 injectors at the rail to see if it will start? What is the cranking fuel pressure at the rail? What was the resistance of those injectors? Are all injectors reading the same resistance and did you ohm check the harness? Do the codes reset after clearing or show active?

 

Capping off the injectors-no. Is there an at home way to do this?

I know a bit about diesel stuff and am mechanicals inclined, but as far as troubleshooting, that's why I'm here. Fuel rail pressure on my edge cts monitor was .8, and is read in kpsi. So it doesn't look like its getting the 4000psi needed.

The codes do not come up again while cranking. It only has ever thrown the codes after I jumped on it and tried to mess around or pass or let the guy with the gas motor know that he shouldn't play with me. Of course, if this happens then he won.

 

And cranking resistance, I will have to check. I know that with the harness unplugged, all the solenoids read 0.00 while static.

 

They should read about .2 ohms. I use a capping tool, handy tool to keep in your tool box.
Miller Special Tools 9864 Cap, Fuel Rail
You can cap up to 3 injector at the rail at one time. Capping off injector one by one will help you find injector that is causing the no start. Or by doing injector return flow test which is a little more involved and requires a few more special tools. I would first make sure your low pressure pump is working properly. If that is ok then disconect the high pressure line at the rail from the CP3 pump attach a hose and then check cranking fuel from pump. Read test procedure. If that checks good then you need to cap the fuel line one by one. Pressure limiting valve could also cause issue if leaking. There is a special tool to check that but I have seen very few go bad.

I always keep the capping tool in my truck with a 19mm wrench just in case I get a fuel line crack or injector go out. I can limp it home on 5 cylinders without dumping fuel into cylinder. Another tell tale sign would be your oil level going up if the injector body has cracked and is leaking high pressure fuel into your oil.

If you are reading 0 ohms and your multimeter is accurate then try disconnecting the two wires at that injector and taping to make sure it doesnt short out. Then try cranking engine over. Make sure you zero out your ohm meter first if old style analog.

 

Have also tried unplugging the fuel rail pressure sensor and still no start. Batteries are both at 12.54 volts, read while disconnected, and the grounds appear to look and feel fine and are securely mounted. Just letting you guys know what I've done so far.

I'll have to take the valve cover off again and retest the solenoids again, I guess. My readings don't sound right. As far as I remember the last time that I researched what they were supposed to be, I thought my readings said that the injectors were okay.

 

I have to say though, in my opinion, that would be a very unfortunate coincidence if either of the pumps went out when there wasn't anything wrong at all a few days ago except for the solenoid deal. That's the only thing we played with and now the truck won't start. I can't be that unlucky.

 

If you have old 5.9 injector line laying around you can bend and then crush the tube to use for a test tool and cap off that injector at the rail. You want to be careful not to damage the seat on the rail where the fuel line goes. Im thinking that injector is leaking and you are not building any fuel pressure at the rail.

 

That's a good thought and the best possible thing I can think of, but just so I know, I'm going to ask.

If I had the fuel rail pressure sensor disconnected and my monitor showed that the rail was fooled and had 27.5k psi, wouldn't the truck have started anyway, or no?

 

The ECM also looks at RPM and would see this as a implausible pressure signal from the pressure sensor and just set a code for it.

 

Oh okay. But no actual codes would pop up until the truck fires off or starts huh?

 

Just ordered a fuel rail cap tool from Genos garage. Guess we will see when it gets here

 

Old thread but I'm in the same boat today.
Had a p0201 and a p2146 did an ohm test and found #1 bad. Changed the solenoid and the ohms were Good, cleared codes fired it up, ran rough ( like before ) but no codes this time, took valve cover back off, removed the solenoid and I thought maybe it's clocked wrong (180 out? )
Tried to start with valve cover off and now it won't start, does valve cover have to be on?
I'm at a loss, please help
Eric

 

I can't help you beyond that it will start/run with valve cover off.

 

Follow up and closure.
Bought an injector and all is good. this website really is a wealth of information
Eric