Have an 03 that suddenly will not start. Over the past 4 days, it stalled on me 3 or 4 times when I let out the clutch in 1st gear. It's never done that, ever! It restarted just fine after the stall, too.

I have 2 trouble codes, 0541 and 0483.

My lift pump (aftermarket) pressure is good, about 8 psi (normal for my truck), and the fuel filter was changed about 3 months ago. I've read through some old post and done the following:

- Unplug cooling fan connector (in case of internal short)
- Remove banjo bolt on rail relief valve, sopped up fluid in the little well, then reinstalled bolt and cranked engine. Remove bolt again and check for fluid, none present, so nothing leaking past the relief valve

I'd like to do a return flow test on injectors but I'm having trouble finding specs for what it should flow when cranking. Can someone point me to this info?

Any other ideas on this no start?

 

i have a 03, it doesn't sound like you have the same symptoms that my 03 had, but I'll lay it on you anyway.

if yours just stalls when taking off it does not sound like a injector problem.

my symptoms did, i read to measure the return fuel volume in CC's which tells you the injector wear/internal leakage, i opted to remove the injectors and have them bench tested and get straight to the point, which it was.

the reason being my mileage was the same as i have read when you develop injector problems

do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
i didn't, now i have 2, rail and lift pump so next time i have a better idea.

mine simply wouldn't start sometimes, never stalled.

 

Here is the information regarding the return flow test.

*INJECTOR RETURN FLOW TEST
Diagnostic Test
1. * INJECTOR RETURN FLOW TEST

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1. Operate the engine until the engine is at operating temperature.
2. Remove the banjo connector from the fuel drain tube at the rear of the fuel filter housing.
3. Install fuel system test fitting 9012 in place of the banjo connector.
4. Remove the vehicle fuel return line from the engine fuel drain tube. Route this hose into a container to catch bled fuel.
5. Install a piece of fuel line onto the test fitting and into a fuel container or into the fuel tank.
6. Install one end of a test hose onto the fuel drain tube. Place the other end of the test hose into a graduated cylinder.
7. Start the engine and let it idle for one minute.
8. Measure the amount of fuel in the graduated cylinder.
9. If the flow is less than 180-ml/minute, the test has successfully passed.
10. If the flow is greater than 180 ml/minute, shut off the engine and remove all of the fuel injector supply lines. Re torque all of the high-pressure connector nuts. Install all of the fuel injector supply lines.
11. Start the engine and idle for one minute. Measure the amount of fuel in the graduated cylinder.
12. If the flow is less than 180ml/minute, the condition has been fixed.
13. If the flow is greater than 180 ml/minute after step 12, shut off the engine and remove the #1 fuel injector supply line. Re torque the high-pressure connector nut. Cap the #1 fuel port using tool 9011 on the fuel rail and the #1 high pressure connector.
14. Start the engine. Measure the amount of fuel in the graduated cylinder.
15. If the amount of fuel is less than 180 ml/minute, shut off the engine and remove the #1 high pressure connector and the #1 fuel injector. Inspect for damage, repair/replace as necessary.
16. If the amount of fuel is not less than 180-ml/minute, repeat steps 14-16 for cylinders 2-6.
17. Install all high-pressure connectors, fuel injectors, and fuel injector supply lines. Repeat steps 1-8 to confirm repair.

SPECIFICATION:Less than 180 ml/minute total fuel return flow

 

Thanks for the info guys. My lift pump pressure guage says 8 psi. Don't have a rail pressure guage.

Is there a test for injector return flow when the engine will not start? Mine just cranks and cranks, doesn't hit at all, so the procedure above won't work for me.

 

Will it start if you plug in block Heater and let it sit for a
While? That was my no start situation. Ended up being bad injectors.
Your truck will not fire if it doesn't build rail pressure.
Also maybe FCA. ??

 

Haven't tried the block heater yet. It did quit when it was warm, luckily right where I park it normally.

Also, truck has 249K miles, purchased with 182K miles, and there were no maintenance records. These would likely not be the original injectors, right?

 

For what it's worth, after retorquing the connector tubes and reassembling everything else, still not starting. I cranked the engine for at least 30 seconds total, also let lift pump run a few times until it shut off.

Then taking off injector lines 1 and 2, I noticed ZERO fuel inside the lines. I thought this was quite odd. Shouldn't there be fuel in the lines at this point? Kinda stumped. Gonna check out the FCA and see it it 'rattles' like it says in the service manual.

 

if you have 8 PSI lift pump pressure and no fuel at the rail, the only thing between there is the CP3

can you get a scanner hooked up to it to see the rail pressure?

with out a drop in the rail, it would have to be the CP3. the FCA controls the CP3 of course via the ECM

i read somewhere to unplug it the sensor on the rail and it should go to full rail pressure during cranking.

 

I'm not an expert but would agree either cp3 or injector/s - could be one injector bleeding off and not letting rail pressure build up enough to fire off - if 224,000 miles then all injectors could be not so good and you've finally hit the wall. Is the no start worse when the engine is hot?

 

I do not have a way to check rail pressure unfortunately. Anybody know of a reasonably priced ODB tool that will do this? The engine quit when it was warm, and would not restart then or when it cooled down.

From what I've read, an injector bleeding off would definitely cause low rail pressure. But then shouldn't I have fuel in injector lines still, after cranking for a while? Since I didn't have any fuel in injector lines 1 and 2, I pulled the FCA and shook it, and barely heard any noise. Seems like it's hung up, so I ordered a new one for $150. Dodge dealer wanted $250!! I should be in thursday...

 

i got one from Freightliner for less than $100, seems like $92?

good choice though, I'd do the same thing with no fuel in the rail.

did you do a search on unplugging the fuel pressure sensor and trying to start it?

 

Until it comes in, just for grins, drain your fuel filter canister and refill with Seafoam. Make sure your batteries are hot and try to start it.

Mine had the same issue and when I did the above, she started up after a little cranking. The Seafoam only worked a few starts thereafter. In each case, it was a bad injector...

 

I did try unplugging the rail pressure sensor but the engine would not start. FCA should be in tomorrow so hopefully I'll know then.

 

Well, the FCA replacement did not solve my problem. I decided to run a CP3 flow test while cranking, and I had at least 20ml above the spec. So I'm thinking it's probably a bad injector. Next step is to buy the Miller tool 9011 and use it to determine if one of the injectors is bad.

 

I noticed in another thread that you are running WMO and filtering it with standard oil filters. I would prepare for the replacement of more than one injector since the Common Rail injection systems can not tolerate grit and debris for long.

In regards to WMO,the amount of savings is too small to off set the diagnostic time, purchase and replacement of even ONE injector on the common rail diesels. I recommend you purchase a GDP fuel filter and water separator to complement the factory fuel filter/ water separator. You can contact Lary at the DTR store as he has them available.