Fisherguy

I think you should fill in the gaps since the first thread where it sounds like Peter was going out of his way to accommodate you.
Now it seems you're slagging SB but not filling us in on what really happened.

Also it would be good to hear Peter's side of this, every story has 2 sides.

You have 47 posts here so excuse me for being skeptical....

RollOver Pete

Twin disc clutches are noisy and grabby and they hold up to the added H.P. and torque you paid for.


Had you have done your homework first, you would have known what to expect and not blamed SB for your ignorance.
Some people will believe anything they hear.


Check out some more noisy clutch videos ...
You are not alone.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpC8bmvS0DA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFtL-7RQRWU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0R2zkfZ2l7I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11xaYA86h-o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aN-dSinBA_o

Rod_Montana

Luk is what comes with the truck. The shop I trust the most believes the LuK is not at fault, that something killed it early on. Like someone who believes you must rev a CTD and feather the clutch to leave from a standing start.

Pedal engagement felt high to me when I bought the truck (with 10k miles on it), but it didn't slip until Smarty power. Even on SW1, when the boost hits 27psi and the rpm gets to 2000, away she goes. Happens a lot with cruise on and running freeway grades while towing, even towing light like 5-6k.

I like the feel of the Luk, even wounded and have babied it for 70,000 miles.

So barring some blinding revelation, I'm inclined to believe Flathead Transmission and go with another OEM clutch. They are supposed to be okay with Smarty Jr. Ain't like I'm running whopper tires.

Oliverpuller

I can tell you right now the stock clutch does not hold up to the Smarty Jr. My truck as it sits has 19000 miles no that is not a typo. I installed Smarty JR last spring and the stock clutch held for well about 500 miles before it started going right through 5th and 6th gear EMPTY, that was @ 70 additional hp (stock size tires BTW).

shlen

I think you should re-read all the posts that are included in the two forums. I am a little offended by you saying it is my ignorance. Do my homework first? What page are you on in your homework? I must have missed that day in class.

The forums that I read said it was slightly noisier then stock, that it grabbed like hell and could handle the power. Nothing I reseached told me what I was about to go through or this is what I was supposed to expect.

Just to reiterate my story in short form (para-phrase) for you.
1: OEM Clutch #1 was Fubar
2: S-Bend Clutch #2 DD: I paid for installation and clutch #2, Unbelievably Noisy, Called S-Bend they sent new and improved.
3: New S-Bend Clutch #3 DD, with rubber inserts: S-Bend paid for clutch #3 and installation, quiet for 6000km then bang.
4: Back in to the clutch, S-Bend release bearing went: I paid for the new bearing, shop covered the labour.
5: Clutch getting louder: Tried to sell the truck, nobody would touch it.
6: Got fed up: Pulled the new and improved S-Bend clutch #3 with rubber inserts and saw that the rubber had fallen out. (See pics in pervious post)
7: Put in new clutch #4: I paid for installation, new clutch was givin to me.

BUT Hey!!!...its my fault
Should have got out the glue gun and re-glued those rubber inserts back in.