I bought a set of Hella Optilux 1300 driving lights for my truck. If I understand correctly, hooking up the lights per the provided instructions will only allow the driving lights to function when the high beams are on (or low beams if I so choose). If I want the driving lights to be independent of the headlamps, should I bypass the relay and wire the driving lights straight to a switch? Is there anything else needed?

I don't know jack about electrical...

Thanks!

 

You're better off wiring a switch that controls a separate relay for the new lights.
By using a relay installed up front under the hood small wire can be run to the switch which won't carry much load. This makes it easier to tie into a positive circuit under the dash since you don't have to worry about the load rating. You will only need larger wire from the battery to relay and relay to the lights.

 

Yes use a relay and a switch to turn relay on and off you can talk power for the switch from a keyed cicuit OR the high beam cicuit this way driving lights come on with high beams. this way DL on with high beams , off on low , or turn switch off and no DLs.

 

I installed a relay up front for my driving lights. The 'parking light' is the switch. Now no matter where my headlights are, my driving lights are on as long as the dash switch is turned to the parking light position or beyond.

 

Ok, I came across this nifty schematic in another thread:



So I was thinking I could just substitute my driving lights in place of the reverse lights... that way I could have the driving lights come on automatically with the brites, or I could control them manually when I wanted to. The problem is that the driving lights come on with the low beams when the switch is in either of the ON positions... in one position, the drivers stay on regardless of high or low beams and in the other ON position the drivers come on with the low beams and turn off with the high beams. It seems like there's just a crossed wire somewhere but I can't figure it out.

I also have the "home" version of a brite-box... could that be causing a problem?

Thanks.

 

That schematic is for extra reverse lights, completely independent of the front lighting. The diagram will work for extra backup lights but not for lights in the front. That was what I was going to do also, but I got a "better" idea

 

Ok, I'll bite... what's the "better" idea?

 

any one have a clue what color the wire is that you need to tap for the driving lights to come on with the hi beams and it's location.

thanks thanks thanks

ps thanks

 

I tapped the wire right at the headlight socket for my piaa 510s to come on with brights, is a grounded switch system on these dodges and my piaas came with its own relay and switch , and the switch had to be used, didnt want to but had to. I have the sport lights.It was tuff to figure out with the damm switch ,I 'm an electrician and still took me an hour with the meter and pulling bulbs and testing the sockets to find the right wire.

 

That was pretty incoherent, I'm afraid.

 

Sorry about the delay. My idea isn't really "better" just more want I want/need. So in that case its better Basically, I saw someone have side lights and aux rev lights. Someone else said their aux rev lights only work with their parking lights on. So I combined them. I made a schematic for the reverse lights to only come on when the parknig lights are on, and then when a seperate switch is thrown, the reverse lights along with a side of lights to light up under the doors come on together. The side lights will be helpful if you have to pull over on the side of the road at night to check on the trailer. I have found that every time I pull over at night, its next to something I can and do trip on. If i could use paint profiently, I could post a schematic if anyone wants. -Bob