Alright, I've been dealing with this for a while, and I figured it would go away when I put the Thuren Track Bar in, but it didn't. Its pretty simple to describe, push the brake pedal, and the truck pulls to the left, and you have to turn the wheel right to keep it going straight.

Now I still have to replace my Sway Bar links and Bushings, already ordered them in fact, but that shouldn't have anything to do with the steering system. I tightened up the box a bit to try to alleviate the problem, but it didn't do much, and I think its time for a rebuilt one anyway (in a few months when money isn't so tight).

I have moved the steering wheel while looking for anything loose in the front end, and with the new track bar in place I can't see anything moving that shouldn't be, but a few thousandths of an inch would probably be enough to cause this pull. It only makes me turn the wheel 1/8 of a turn to straighten it out, but I don't feel comfortable letting anyone else drive it the way it is.

Do I go through and replace all the tie rod ends, drag link, and everything else? Has anyone used Thurens Steering bars? I would like to put a leveling kit in it soon, but will wait until I fix this problem to do so, and I probably won't bother putting in the leveling kit until my tires are shot and I'm ready to step up to the 35's.

Also, I have a vibration on the passengers side front end which I think is probably a bearing, but I doubt thats giving me this symptom.

 

I would try shimming the right wheel out here is procedure. Hope this helps
2500/3500 SERIES SHIMMING PROCEDURE:

With wheel removed install 3.5 mm shim (p/n 04863760), make sure that the shim is installed as marked "THIS SIDE OUT."
Install the wheel on the rotor, make sure that the wheel is centered on the studs and partially tighten all of the lug nuts following the pattern given in the appropriate Ram Truck Service Manual, Group 22.
Finish tightening the lug nuts to 180 N• m (135 ft. lbs.) (2500 Series) or 195 N• m (145 ft. lbs.) (3500 Series) following the pattern given in Group 22.
Road test the vehicle again as described in step 7 through 11 in the Diagnosis section of the Suspension Geometry Evaluation. If the condition is corrected, the repair is complete. If the vehicle drifts to the opposite direction than originally found then repeat steps 1 through 3, using a 2.0 mm shim (p/n 04863759).
If the vehicle continues to drift in the same direction as originally found then a thicker shim must be used. Repeat steps 1 through 3 using a 5.0 mm shim (p/n 04863761). Road test the vehicle again as described in step 7 through 11 in the diagnosis section of the Suspension Geometry Evaluation. If the condition is corrected, the repair is complete. However if the vehicle still continues to drift in the same direction as originally found, then a thicker than 5.0 mm shim must be used. In this event the wheelstuds must be replaced.
2500 SERIES 6.5 MM SHIMMING PROCEDURE

Remove the brake caliper from the mounting.
Remove the hub, rotor and bearing from the steering knuckle as outlined in the appropriate Ram Truck Service Manual, Group 05.
Press the original wheel studs out of the hub as outlined in the appropriate Ram Truck Service Manual, Group 02.
CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE WHEEL STUDS WHILE THE HUB, ROTOR AND BEARING ASSEMBLY IS INSTALLED ON THE SPINDLE OR BEARING DAMAGE WILL RESULT.

Press the eight new, longer studs (p/n 04864187).
CAUTION: BE SURE HUB IS SUPPORTED, LOAD REACTION MUST NOT BE TAKEN THROUGH THE BEARING.

Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly to the steering knuckle, install the caliper assembly.
Install a 6.5 mm shim (p/n 04863762) on the hub over the rotor. Make sure the shim is installed as marked "THIS SIDE OUT."
Install the wheel on the rotor, make sure that the wheel is centered on the studs and partially tighten all of the lug nuts following the pattern given in the appropriate Ram Truck Service Manual, Group 22.
Finish tightening the lug nuts to 180 N• m (135 ft. lbs.) following the pattern given in Group 22.
Road test the vehicle to insure that drift is now corrected.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE MORE THAN ONE SHIM ON A WHEEL OR SPACE THE WHEEL MORE THAN 6.5 MM AWAY FROM THE ROTOR.

DO NOT PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE FOR ANY CONDITION(S) OTHER THAN THE ONE DISCUSSED IN THIS CHASSIS DYNAMICS DIAGNOSTIC PROCESS.

DO NOT INSTALL THESE SHIMS ON THE REAR OF A VEHICLE

 

Make sure your rear brakes are adjusted evenly. The self adjusters on these trucks are notorious for only working on one side if at all.

 

This maybe too simplistic but your right brake might be sticking. This was why mine pulled. When I changed pads I made sure the sliding mech. was free, it wasn't, and applied a grease that was made for that purpose. No more pulling.

 

Never thought of that Bill, good idea.

It could be my caliper sticking too now that I think of it, when I press the pedal hard it doesn't pull anymore, I'll have to throw some moly-grease on the bolts and see if that helps.

 

bad rotors or calipers can also cause pull and shimmy when the nose dives in a panic stop.

 

Thats just it though, it doesn't seem to happen during a panic stop. It seems to happen most when I come to a normal stop at a stop sign, where you squeeze the brakes, not jam them. I'm gonna try lubing up the caliper bolts and holes like BlackImpala stated... After that there is a laundry list of things it could be, but I'll try the rear adjusters like Bill said as well.

 

besides sticky brakes causing pulling... low tire pressure can do it too.

always look at simple solutions before moving on to complex one's

 

The caliper bolts will more than likely not have anything to do with it. Most problems exist from the caliper piston bore and seal. Replace both calipers and pads from the dealer. Why from the dealer? there have been too many complaints from after market pads causing problems. The dealer pads are the only ones that work correctly.
What causes the bore to go bad? Heat, the cycle of cooling and heating creates sweat in the bore and creates rust pockets therefore damages the square cut seal which in turn jams the piston. Brake fluid is also hydroscopic, meaning it attracts water, which in turn also will cause rust pockets. Replace the calipers and pads it will work like a champ.

 

2500, I keep my tires to proper inflation, check them at least twice a month... Honestly thats the first thing that crossed my mind, so I did that before coming here.

J, I know what your talking about with the caliper pistons, and I thought that might be the problem, but at this point I don't want to tear my axle apart to replace all that crap. I worked for Dana for a while, and I've seen the effects of what your talking about. I have also seen rusty caliper bolts that won't let the caliper slide back and forth properly, causing only one side of the pad to wear, and therefore upsetting the braking performance. So it was worth a shot to pull them, grease them up, and see if it will make even the slightest difference, if it does I'll get new bolts and start fresh.

 

A tire that is starting to seperate can cause it to. Try rotating the tires front to back and then go for a drive to see if it is still there. I used to see this quite a bit at the dealer.

 

Im surprised no one mentioned collapsed passenger brake line...

 

I am having the exact same problem, did you solve yours?