Trq Converter In & Out, RPM up & Down???
I just started having a problem with my torque converter locking and unlocking, back and forth.
Also cruise was working, and now wont set at all? I noticed today while trying to set the cruise that the green light would go out when the torque converter started locking and unlocking.
RPM's are jumping up and down when I place it in Park regardless if AC is on or not.
Could these all be related?
My thoughts for fix is:
1. TPS?
2. Need Noise filter?
3. Both?
Also cruise was working, and now wont set at all? I noticed today while trying to set the cruise that the green light would go out when the torque converter started locking and unlocking.
RPM's are jumping up and down when I place it in Park regardless if AC is on or not.
Could these all be related?
My thoughts for fix is:
1. TPS?
2. Need Noise filter?
3. Both?
A few things.. TPS may be the issue with the TC and shifting, could also be as simple as the brake lite switch on the pedal not being in adjustment.. If it clicks on and off it will tell the TC to unlock and shut down your cruise.
RPM may be related to wiring or bad Crank speed sensor. Again if the PCM thinks the engine is up and down on RPM, it may do the same.
RPM may be related to wiring or bad Crank speed sensor. Again if the PCM thinks the engine is up and down on RPM, it may do the same.
The engine rpm is COMPLETELY a mechanical function of the fuel delivery, injection pump and injector system. RPM sensor & TPS do nothing for idle but will cause issues with TC lockup and cruise control.
If the LP is dying, an air leak, bad overflow valve and just plain low idle speed will cause the symptoms. You have a GSK in a 215 pump. They are a pain to set the spring tension and get out of the flutter mode.
If the LP is dying, an air leak, bad overflow valve and just plain low idle speed will cause the symptoms. You have a GSK in a 215 pump. They are a pain to set the spring tension and get out of the flutter mode.
I took the truck to a auto parts store and had them scan it, TPS High Input Error.
I cleaned the TPS, and it hasen't missed a beat. Temporary fix until I have to bite the bullet and pay for a new one.
Fueling around (They are a pain to set the spring tension and get out of the flutter mode.) You got that right, WOW. Since I put the springs in I had to gut the AFC just to get my bottom end back. It would hardly pull itself out of drive.
Now it wants to turn the idle up while in Park to around 1k-13k rpm, only in park, doesn't do it in drive. In drive it stays consistently at 750 rpm.
Haven't had a chance to get back in there and work on it.
Thanks all.
I cleaned the TPS, and it hasen't missed a beat. Temporary fix until I have to bite the bullet and pay for a new one.
Fueling around (They are a pain to set the spring tension and get out of the flutter mode.) You got that right, WOW. Since I put the springs in I had to gut the AFC just to get my bottom end back. It would hardly pull itself out of drive.
Now it wants to turn the idle up while in Park to around 1k-13k rpm, only in park, doesn't do it in drive. In drive it stays consistently at 750 rpm.
Haven't had a chance to get back in there and work on it.
Thanks all.
I had a GSK in my original pump and it took a bit to set the spring tension for smooth throttle response.
I have a 215 pump in there now. I left the stock springs. I get fuel to 2,800 rpm and that is more than enough for me.
Glad you got the TC issue straightened out.
I have a 215 pump in there now. I left the stock springs. I get fuel to 2,800 rpm and that is more than enough for me.
Glad you got the TC issue straightened out.
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The proper setting is for the spring stack held snug not tight. You should just be able to push down the top retainer with your fingers.
I've been scratching my ear to think back. I helped worked on a truck that also had no bottom end after the GSK. I think we fixed that with a AFC spring swap.
I've been scratching my ear to think back. I helped worked on a truck that also had no bottom end after the GSK. I think we fixed that with a AFC spring swap.
AFC is what was determined on mine for no low end. I gutted the AFC, to test if it was the culprit and it was. Bottom end came back, but still have the high idle in park. What's interesting is with my AFC gutted it doesn't smoke bad at all ???
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