PROBLEM 4X4 ball joints replacement
#17
Registered User
PS method involves removing the big nut, giving the drive shaft a light tap to make it slide freely so you can pull the hub off the shaft when ready.
Then you remove the 4 12pt bolts from the inside and reinstalll them about 10 turns (spray the inside of the hub with penetrating oil)
Then you take a socket and an extension and put it on a bolt, let a helper turn the steering wheel (engine running) to wedge the extension against the control arm or another hard part that won't budge. This will exert pressure against the bolt and push the hub out. Repeat for the opposite bolt and the hub is lose- remove bolts and while pushing the shaft inwards pull away hub by hand.
I usually use a slightly bigger socket and a set of old bolts with messed up heads that I have saved for these occasions. I also welded a flat bar to the end of the extension to spread the pressure to avoid kinking the control arm or the frame where the rear end of the extension is wedged.
This method has the great advantage that no force is exerted on the hub or bearing. The force is only present on the hub mounting plate and extremely close to the flange that's rusted to the knuckle.
HTH
AlpineRAM
Then you remove the 4 12pt bolts from the inside and reinstalll them about 10 turns (spray the inside of the hub with penetrating oil)
Then you take a socket and an extension and put it on a bolt, let a helper turn the steering wheel (engine running) to wedge the extension against the control arm or another hard part that won't budge. This will exert pressure against the bolt and push the hub out. Repeat for the opposite bolt and the hub is lose- remove bolts and while pushing the shaft inwards pull away hub by hand.
I usually use a slightly bigger socket and a set of old bolts with messed up heads that I have saved for these occasions. I also welded a flat bar to the end of the extension to spread the pressure to avoid kinking the control arm or the frame where the rear end of the extension is wedged.
This method has the great advantage that no force is exerted on the hub or bearing. The force is only present on the hub mounting plate and extremely close to the flange that's rusted to the knuckle.
HTH
AlpineRAM
#21
We used heat, an air chisel, beat on it with a 3lbs sledge and everything. Didnt know about the power steering trick till after we got it off. The bearing was running a little rougher than before, but its still driveable for now. I also f'd up the ABS sesnor trying to disconnect it, so I think Im gonna end up replacing it all at some point anyways.
Mind you my truck has 112k miles on it, and all of these parts were original.
Mind you my truck has 112k miles on it, and all of these parts were original.
#22
There's several YouTube videos on removing the bearing hub assembly on Dana 60 . In a nutshell, get all four bolts out with about 5 turns of thread still in. Then place an old 3 in extension and proper size socket on the bolt. Start your truck using a helper, or wire it in place to hit the axle housing when you turn the wheel. Use quite a bit of force and you will hear a loud bang. Then center the wheel and repeat 3 more times! No heating, no beating! You use your power steering as a hydraulic press.
Hope this helps! Pass it on! I did mine by myself, get a helper to turn the wheel if you can! :-)
Hope this helps! Pass it on! I did mine by myself, get a helper to turn the wheel if you can! :-)
#23
.........I've tried the p/s method without much success, blew a couple p/s hoses........what I do now is a 10 ton port a power between the rotor and spindle....make sure u have the rotor loose off of the hub 1st cause its a very heavy assembly when all together.....put a couple of nuts back on........using the jaw that spreads open then push the rotor/bearing out.............kim.......
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