I replaced the the front calipers and brake hoses today on the Ram in my sig. When I was bleeding the brakes, I noticed that not a whole lot of fluid would be pumped out. I had my dad come over to help and had him operating the brake while I bled the calipers. The way we bled the brakes was to have him put pressure on the brake pedal. I would then open the bleeder screw on the caliper. There would be an initial burst of fluid, then almost nothing. I would then close the screw. I asked him how far the pedal had moved and he told me the pedal would only travel a small amount then stop, never going through full travel. We did this with the truck not running and the lid off the master cylinder. Both calipers did this. Also, this happened the last time I bled brakes and wondered then if it was normal. I started the truck at one point to get the pistons in the new calipers to move to their normal position for braking, then shut it off and tried bleeding the brakes again. I thought maybe this might help if the pistons in the new calipers where positioned normally. The same thing still happened. With the truck running, the brakes work normally, which I am assuming is indicating that there's plenty of pressure from the hydroboost. With the truck off, there's only an instant of pressure before it stops. I did not have my dad try to force the pedal down. I'm wondering if I should just bleed the calipers with the truck running to help move fluid through the lines? BTW, the truck has 4-wheel abs.

Something else I noticed that I don't remember seeing on other vehicles that I've replaced calipers on is the brake fluid continually drains out of the front brake lines when not plugged up...a continual drip best describes it. If I had not taped off the open end, the master cylinder would have drained out completely. Is this normal too. It's probably been about 15 years since I replaced calipers on an S-10 I had when I was in college, so, it is possible that fluid ran out the same way then and I had just forgotten, but, I'm really not sure.

Any thoughts on the matter are apperciated. Thanks!

 

It's totally normal for the fluid to slowly drip outwith the bleeder open. In fact it's the slow method I use to fill/bleed new cylinders/calipers with an upward looped hose connected to the bleeder while I work on the other side or clean up.

Not being able to fully depress the the brake pedal isn't normal and it's probably good you didn't force it. My thought is the master cylinder's shaft is rusted from years of water logged fluid and won't pass though the normal stroke used when braking. If you had forced it the rust would have probably tore up the seals.
For this reason when using the pump the pedal bleeding method I always put a 2x4 under the brake pedal so it only strokes in the normal braking amount. Saves the headache of causing a creeping down pedal and replacement of the master.

As long as your brakes are working good I wouldn't worry.

 

I got the chance to bleed them again today, this time with my brother-in-law at the pedal. He was able to push it down while I bled them. Everything appears to be good now. I got whatever remaining air out. The pedal feels solid again (it felt spongy last night...probably from the remaining air in the line/caliper). Thanks for the help.

 

You have to overpower the hydro boost when manually bleeding.
To stop the dribbling, press pedal down a 1/2 inch or so and prop with piece of wood from pedal to seat. This way you cannot force bad fluid back through ABS and MC. I try to completelly flush fluid once a year.

 

Well, so far so good. The brakes feel great and solid. Also, I have not experienced the problem I've been chasing for the past several months either...which can best be described as an intermitant hyperactive vibration that does not match the speed of the truck and can occur at any time, any speed, any load condition, and any pressure on the brake pedal. Hopefully, replacing the front calipers and hoses fixed that problem too. Thanks for all the advice!

 

If you still have bleeding issues especially with the hydroboost you can do the same procedure you did but leave the engine running,bleeds easy,lots of pressure. That's how we do it .

 

I made up a brake bleeder that makes life good. I have a refrig vacum pump that I used to do car A/c with (wouldn't DREAM of using it now since it vents to the atmosphere and that would be bad for the ozone)
The pump, a big glass pickle jar and a heap o hose.
I get my son to keep an eye on the mc resevior and I suck the fluid out through the wheel side. no muss no fuss. Kind of neat in that is sucks the caliper piston back to all in at the same time.

 

they sell brake bleaders like that vaccum out the fluid when connected to shop air preassure. pretty good system but sometimes its too powerful and allows air back into the brake system.

what we use now forces fresh fluid throught the master cyldiner. better system works faster.

 

I picked up one of these last year online from SEARS for ~$100.

Works GREAT!
One Man brake bleeding.

 

I just replaced the hydro boost and master cylinder on my 99' 4x4 and my brakes still dont feel right the pedal still feels spongy and the pedal goes way down like they need bled again is this normal?