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Bleeding brakes

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Old May 18, 2004 | 11:22 AM
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From: Prineville, Oregon
Cool Bleeding brakes

Gonna change my rear brake cylinders to the larger ones stated in another post to the 1 ton chevys. When I take the cylinders off I will have to rebleed the system. I plan on just rebleeding not flushing the whole system. How much fluid does it usually take to complete this job? I won't be using a pressure bleeder. Thanks-Ray
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Old May 18, 2004 | 12:17 PM
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Yes I would bleed the rears to remove all air. I use a mighty vac tool ,there about $30 bucks and they are great. I usually flush the system with and go through a quart bottle to flush til it looks new again.
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Old May 18, 2004 | 12:28 PM
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Thumbs up

Thanks for the reply I will get a vac. bleeder and do the whole system --Ray
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Old May 18, 2004 | 12:55 PM
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do you havr to have a vac bleeder to bleed the breaks? i don't have one and really don't want to buy one right now but I need to change the back axle off a 98 Dodge with a limited slip to my truck tonight.
DM01
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Old May 18, 2004 | 01:15 PM
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From: Prineville, Oregon
Cool

You can do it the old fashioned way with an assistant pumping the pedal and you with a platic hose on the wheel bleeder and a bucket to put the other end of the hose in, opening and shutting the bleeder untill the air is out.-Ray
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Old May 18, 2004 | 01:47 PM
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thats what I thought but I was skeerd for a sec.
DM01
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Old May 18, 2004 | 02:00 PM
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I prefer the vacuum or pressure method over the old fashioned pump the pedal.
What can happen with the pedal method is that you can depress the master cylinder into an area that is not normally used since most pedals don't sink all the way to the floor. Often this area is rusty and can tear up the master cylinder seals. This is the main reason some folks don't get good brakes after bleeding, the seals are leaking internally.
A $15 vacuum bleeder looks awfully cheap compared to a new master cylinder.
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Old May 18, 2004 | 05:15 PM
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Smile

Infidel is most likely correct if you do as he says it will probably be alot better and no contaiments. The money for the vac. pressurizer will be alot cheaper than the repair of the master cylinder. Although I have done it the old way on other trucks and didn't run into any problems. The ball is in your court.
Infidel- got the Lukes Link installed works great thanks for the info and on the guages.--Ray
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Old May 18, 2004 | 08:26 PM
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When I did mine, I just opened the bleeder and let it "gravity" bleed itself. I have a good, solid, and high pedal. If you need to replace a line I don't think you would be as lucky as I was for bleeding them.
Tom
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Old May 18, 2004 | 09:19 PM
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Red face

With my luck I'd probably have no pedal at all. I will go ahead and use a bleeder. Thanks for the "heads up" I appreciate any feed back that is supportive. Thanks--Ray
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Old May 19, 2004 | 04:44 AM
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I usually make the vac bleeder myself. I'm using a glass jar with a metal lid and 2 hoses. I punch 2 holes in the lid and insert the transparent hoses, one until it reaches the bottom of the jar and one that is flush with the lid. A dab of silicone to seal and hold the hoses. Then I attach the short hose to a vacuum source on the vehicle. (You find some plugged tees on almost any vehicle) With the engine running voila, instant vacuum bleeder from scrap. (My wife refills the reservoir and I'm under the vehicle with my jar contraption. When the jar is full I just put on another lid and take another jar, so the old brake fluid is ready to go to the waste disposal center.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM
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Old May 19, 2004 | 08:08 AM
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Alpine: Thanks for your 2 cents worth. Thats a great idea I'll have to try that sometime. For now I am gonna go with the vacuum bleeder. I generally find myself doing most of the jobs myself. -Ray
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Old May 19, 2004 | 09:36 AM
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wheel cylinders

If you pinch off the rear brake rubber brake line with vise grips you can replace the rear wheel cylinders with out draining all the brake fluid out of the system. Then open the bleeders when the new cylinders are installed and let the system gravity bleed just don't let the master cylinder run out of fluid and you should be ok.
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Old May 19, 2004 | 10:00 AM
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From: Prineville, Oregon
Talking

Another great idea! Haven't checked to see if I have rubber hoses going to the rear brakes. I reckon I do or you wopuldn't be telling me this. My signature has my rig in it. --Thanks Jack
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Old May 19, 2004 | 10:33 AM
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You have steel lines the entire way. If you work fast you will loose very little fluid. What I do is break the brake line loose before removing the two bolts that hold the cylinder on then retighten it. The swap should only take a few seconds with the line open, plus it's like a straw with your finger over the end, very little drips out.
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