Bleeding brakes
Gonna change my rear brake cylinders to the larger ones stated in another post to the 1 ton chevys. When I take the cylinders off I will have to rebleed the system. I plan on just rebleeding not flushing the whole system. How much fluid does it usually take to complete this job? I won't be using a pressure bleeder. Thanks-Ray
Yes I would bleed the rears to remove all air. I use a mighty vac tool ,there about $30 bucks and they are great. I usually flush the system with and go through a quart bottle to flush til it looks new again.
do you havr to have a vac bleeder to bleed the breaks? i don't have one and really don't want to buy one right now but I need to change the back axle off a 98 Dodge with a limited slip to my truck tonight.
DM01
DM01
You can do it the old fashioned way with an assistant pumping the pedal and you with a platic hose on the wheel bleeder and a bucket to put the other end of the hose in, opening and shutting the bleeder untill the air is out.-Ray
I prefer the vacuum or pressure method over the old fashioned pump the pedal.
What can happen with the pedal method is that you can depress the master cylinder into an area that is not normally used since most pedals don't sink all the way to the floor. Often this area is rusty and can tear up the master cylinder seals. This is the main reason some folks don't get good brakes after bleeding, the seals are leaking internally.
A $15 vacuum bleeder looks awfully cheap compared to a new master cylinder.
What can happen with the pedal method is that you can depress the master cylinder into an area that is not normally used since most pedals don't sink all the way to the floor. Often this area is rusty and can tear up the master cylinder seals. This is the main reason some folks don't get good brakes after bleeding, the seals are leaking internally.
A $15 vacuum bleeder looks awfully cheap compared to a new master cylinder.
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Infidel is most likely correct if you do as he says it will probably be alot better and no contaiments. The money for the vac. pressurizer will be alot cheaper than the repair of the master cylinder. Although I have done it the old way on other trucks and didn't run into any problems. The ball is in your court.
Infidel- got the Lukes Link installed works great thanks for the info and on the guages.--Ray
Infidel- got the Lukes Link installed works great thanks for the info and on the guages.--Ray
When I did mine, I just opened the bleeder and let it "gravity" bleed itself. I have a good, solid, and high pedal. If you need to replace a line I don't think you would be as lucky as I was for bleeding them.
Tom
Tom
With my luck I'd probably have no pedal at all. I will go ahead and use a bleeder. Thanks for the "heads up" I appreciate any feed back that is supportive. Thanks--Ray
I usually make the vac bleeder myself. I'm using a glass jar with a metal lid and 2 hoses. I punch 2 holes in the lid and insert the transparent hoses, one until it reaches the bottom of the jar and one that is flush with the lid. A dab of silicone to seal and hold the hoses. Then I attach the short hose to a vacuum source on the vehicle. (You find some plugged tees on almost any vehicle) With the engine running voila, instant vacuum bleeder from scrap. (My wife refills the reservoir and I'm under the vehicle with my jar contraption. When the jar is full I just put on another lid and take another jar, so the old brake fluid is ready to go to the waste disposal center.
Just my 2c
AlpineRAM
Just my 2c
AlpineRAM
Alpine: Thanks for your 2 cents worth. Thats a great idea I'll have to try that sometime. For now I am gonna go with the vacuum bleeder. I generally find myself doing most of the jobs myself. -Ray
wheel cylinders
If you pinch off the rear brake rubber brake line with vise grips you can replace the rear wheel cylinders with out draining all the brake fluid out of the system. Then open the bleeders when the new cylinders are installed and let the system gravity bleed just don't let the master cylinder run out of fluid and you should be ok.
Another great idea! Haven't checked to see if I have rubber hoses going to the rear brakes. I reckon I do or you wopuldn't be telling me this. My signature has my rig in it. --Thanks Jack
You have steel lines the entire way. If you work fast you will loose very little fluid. What I do is break the brake line loose before removing the two bolts that hold the cylinder on then retighten it. The swap should only take a few seconds with the line open, plus it's like a straw with your finger over the end, very little drips out.



