Need something better
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Need something better
Did the sport light conversion and wiring mods a while back, but still they aren't good enough for Alaska winter driving. They don't put out much light and it's all pointed down and not down the road. Not much in the way of higher wattage bulbs without going straight to over kill on the low beam side. Was thinking of going the HID projector route, but all the projector head lights I found were for standard light bulbs. Wouldn't consider that any help. I'm still not impressed by LEDs either. They don't put out that much light, but still manage to blind on coming traffic. Don't really want to do the auxiliary thing because both high and low need drastic improvements.
#2
Registered User
Did the sport light conversion and wiring mods a while back, but still they aren't good enough for Alaska winter driving. They don't put out much light and it's all pointed down and not down the road. Not much in the way of higher wattage bulbs without going straight to over kill on the low beam side. Was thinking of going the HID projector route, but all the projector head lights I found were for standard light bulbs. Wouldn't consider that any help. I'm still not impressed by LEDs either. They don't put out that much light, but still manage to blind on coming traffic. Don't really want to do the auxiliary thing because both high and low need drastic improvements.
#4
Registered User
I've had very good results with new stock sports headlights, where I used a set of relays to power them correctly instead of with the abysmal stock wiring harness.
Using flosser 80/100W bulbs gives you very good low beams with a good cutoff, and insane 400W of high beams.. without burning up your light switch
It works like this- you put the coil of the relay between the wire for the filament you want to light and the common wire on the stock plug. (So one for low, one for high)
Then you get power directly from the battery to the relay, and from the output of the relay directly to the bulb. Add a ground wire for the bulb back to the battery.
On Peter's truck (97 QC LB 2500 CTD) we got only 11V on the bulb with the stock headlight (you need to measure with the bulb installed) with the engine running, and with the relays we got it to 14.3V - which according to wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halogen_lamp
says that the same bulb puts out 55% less light on the reduced voltage.
Another factor that can rob a lot of light is the yellowing of the plastic headlight lens.
Using flosser 80/100W bulbs gives you very good low beams with a good cutoff, and insane 400W of high beams.. without burning up your light switch
It works like this- you put the coil of the relay between the wire for the filament you want to light and the common wire on the stock plug. (So one for low, one for high)
Then you get power directly from the battery to the relay, and from the output of the relay directly to the bulb. Add a ground wire for the bulb back to the battery.
On Peter's truck (97 QC LB 2500 CTD) we got only 11V on the bulb with the stock headlight (you need to measure with the bulb installed) with the engine running, and with the relays we got it to 14.3V - which according to wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halogen_lamp
says that the same bulb puts out 55% less light on the reduced voltage.
Another factor that can rob a lot of light is the yellowing of the plastic headlight lens.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've had very good results with new stock sports headlights, where I used a set of relays to power them correctly instead of with the abysmal stock wiring harness.
Using flosser 80/100W bulbs gives you very good low beams with a good cutoff, and insane 400W of high beams.. without burning up your light switch
It works like this- you put the coil of the relay between the wire for the filament you want to light and the common wire on the stock plug. (So one for low, one for high)
Then you get power directly from the battery to the relay, and from the output of the relay directly to the bulb. Add a ground wire for the bulb back to the battery.
On Peter's truck (97 QC LB 2500 CTD) we got only 11V on the bulb with the stock headlight (you need to measure with the bulb installed) with the engine running, and with the relays we got it to 14.3V - which according to wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halogen_lamp
says that the same bulb puts out 55% less light on the reduced voltage.
Another factor that can rob a lot of light is the yellowing of the plastic headlight lens.
Using flosser 80/100W bulbs gives you very good low beams with a good cutoff, and insane 400W of high beams.. without burning up your light switch
It works like this- you put the coil of the relay between the wire for the filament you want to light and the common wire on the stock plug. (So one for low, one for high)
Then you get power directly from the battery to the relay, and from the output of the relay directly to the bulb. Add a ground wire for the bulb back to the battery.
On Peter's truck (97 QC LB 2500 CTD) we got only 11V on the bulb with the stock headlight (you need to measure with the bulb installed) with the engine running, and with the relays we got it to 14.3V - which according to wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halogen_lamp
says that the same bulb puts out 55% less light on the reduced voltage.
Another factor that can rob a lot of light is the yellowing of the plastic headlight lens.
#6
Registered User
(The US beam pattern is very different to the Euro pattern)
Another mod you could consider is making an diy mount for modules like
http://www.hella.com/MicroSite/soe/s...erformance.pdf
and putting a clear lexan plate in front of them, so you retain the stock silhuette on the outsidde
Installation instructions for the led version:
http://www.myhellalights.com/files/6...structions.pdf
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Nanoose Bay B.C. Canada
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I am running the same sport lights with Led both high and low. They are a three sided led they are wired so low beam is on one and high run both. i made the option and wired the second low beam if i want to use it later. I have DRL in my truck the only problem i have is that they use a low wattage on the DRL on the high beam side as the led do not take a lot of voltage to run my high beams are on all the time so i just turn my lights on when i get into my truck and they work very well
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
On the low beams no more problems with oncoming traffic than with the stock lights.
(The US beam pattern is very different to the Euro pattern)
Another mod you could consider is making an diy mount for modules like
http://www.hella.com/MicroSite/soe/s...erformance.pdf
and putting a clear lexan plate in front of them, so you retain the stock silhuette on the outsidde
Installation instructions for the led version:
http://www.myhellalights.com/files/6...structions.pdf
(The US beam pattern is very different to the Euro pattern)
Another mod you could consider is making an diy mount for modules like
http://www.hella.com/MicroSite/soe/s...erformance.pdf
and putting a clear lexan plate in front of them, so you retain the stock silhuette on the outsidde
Installation instructions for the led version:
http://www.myhellalights.com/files/6...structions.pdf
I am running the same sport lights with Led both high and low. They are a three sided led they are wired so low beam is on one and high run both. i made the option and wired the second low beam if i want to use it later. I have DRL in my truck the only problem i have is that they use a low wattage on the DRL on the high beam side as the led do not take a lot of voltage to run my high beams are on all the time so i just turn my lights on when i get into my truck and they work very well
#9
Registered User
I am running the same sport lights with Led both high and low. They are a three sided led they are wired so low beam is on one and high run both. i made the option and wired the second low beam if i want to use it later. I have DRL in my truck the only problem i have is that they use a low wattage on the DRL on the high beam side as the led do not take a lot of voltage to run my high beams are on all the time so i just turn my lights on when i get into my truck and they work very well
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