THE REASON FOR POSTING

if you want to skip all the other stuff and help me.
So here is my problem, the little heat/dust shield that goes in between the hub and the knuckle is melted and mangled to the point it is not usable anymore.
First - Is it that important that it definitely has to be there?

Second - Where can i buy a new one?

Below is a little description of the problems i've had replacing the ball joints so far. NOT FUN to say the least.


At 130,000 miles. I have recently ran into the problems of replacing the ball joints on these things. Went for a state inspection and was told all new ball joints around and a track bar. Ok. $475.00 for track bar and $905.00 for ball joints plus an inspection and a couple small things puts me right at about $1500 from dealer. I said put it back together i will come get it. Track bar piece of cake. I have read all the horror stories about these but decided to go with the stock bar again. Hopefully i can get another 130,XXX out of this one. Now the ball joints. Got the driver's side apart as far as the hub. Removed the four 112 point bolts holding the hub in place. Searched on here again and tried every trick that i could find. Tried a hub puller. Both the slide hammer and the puller that goes against the axle shaft. Tried wedging an extension between the hub bolts and against the axle tube and starting the truck and using the power steering to push it out. Beat, pounded, and heated a little but not to much to damage the hub assembly and cook the grease. Still didn't come apart. So I loosened the ball joint nuts and dropped the steering knuckle or spindle whatever you like to call it enough to cut the ball joints and it was apart. But the hub assembly and knuckle have to come apart to put it back together. Went to 3 machine shops. One of the guys tried getting it apart using an air hammer between the hub and knuckle and needless to say messed it up bad. Don't try this method, it really just makes it worse. Finally one guy said he could get it. He tried a 30 ton press and bent the angle iron. He tried a 20 ton pneumatic air hammer and blew out the seals. Finally he made a jig and pressed it out with extreme heat and wasted the hub assembly. Charged me $178.00!! OUCH So add a salty new hub asembly to the price of the repair now. So $300 for ball joints and track bar, $100.00 for misc tools like large axle nut socket 1 11/16 if anybody needs to know for a project and 12 point socket for the brake caliper mouting bracket bolts, $178.00 for machine shop, and now $267.00 for a new hub assembly. Quickly getting close to the dealer price. And remember this is only the drivers side. I have to replace both ball joints on the passenger's side for inspection too. Hopefully it goes better or i will be over the dealer price at that point. But atleast i will have all new hubs my way for the price i would have paid them.


Any help is always greatly appreciated!!

 

I would not be surprised if the dealer would have charged you for hubs if you had that much trouble getting them out. That said you can loosen the bolts just alittle and try driving it to break them loose.

 

just had to do them on a bad stuck one. put power steering pressure on it at the same time used a 5lb blow hammer. when it went it sounded like a gun,

 

I would say that you need the dust shields. If you want new, the dealership is probably the only place- I would search junk yards. They should be pretty easy to come by. Or, check ebay.

 

I was able to use the dust shield. It took me a little bit of punding and bending to get it back into shape. Thanks for all of your replies. I was able to get the passenger side off yesterday with a heavy duty puller and alot of hammering with a BFH. I beat the hub up a little but nothing a little grinding wouldn't fix to smooth it out. So the passenger side went alot better this time than the drivers side. So it is all fixed now.

 

Pa. requires you to get a suspension inspection?? Geeze !

Sorry to here that. Must be the liberals politicians their wanting to control your lives. Plus, they get to take some more of your money so they can waste it .




.

 

Inspections suck. Depending on the shop (and regardless of laws and endless arguing) here in MA they can flunk you for any light on in the dash, torn wiper blades, any suspension part being loose, worn brakes, parking brakes that don't hold the vehicle while in drive and flooring it (way excessive, but I've seen it), any rot anywhere....etc. Last time I got one I nearly punched the guy in the head because he put a R on it for no wiper fluid in the bottle. I got a valid one put on about 5 min later.

Hence, my sticker expired almost 2 years ago. Not to mention, from what I've heard anyway, that any signs of a plow should have commercial tags too.