Any one do it? Just wondering, cuz I hate having the front end turrning all the time. What did it run the people that have siwiched it over? Any problems with doing it?

Also looking at a 94 2500. 134k on it. New pump at 98k regular cab auto. What should I look for on it? Whats it worth, it has some rust on the bed and on the bottom of the doors.

COop

 

Just relized that this should be in the drivetrain section....if mods wanna move it please have at it.

thanks coop

 

hubs on a dodge can be done via kit, weld on ford nuckles, swap in a ford axle. If you are worried about mileage or parts failure, you worry too much, even the 02' guys don't have to replace front end parts too often, if you are worried about breaking the axle, you better be good at fab or have deep pockets, heck prolly both. the cad is the weakest link on the dodge, and it is plenty tough for reasonable folks.

on the 94' be sure the kdp is killed, or do it the day you buy it. if it is an auto ya better have a little dough in the bank for that sad day. otherwise a 94' is a pretty solid truck, the pump was replaced? I am sure you mean the lp not the ip.....yes? the p7100 usually last....well once somone wears one out I will tell ya how long they last....if ya get my drift.

 

Thanks for the info on the front end.

Whats the kdp, and how do u kill it? The trucks gonna be a plow truck, no mods(my dads not into that) So I dont see any reason for the trany to go. Are they that bad of a trany? It has done very little towing, and now plowing(yet). I thought that the p pump was a good pump. The PO said that just went, it wouldn't run. He had it replaced by the dealer.

coop

 

It might be in your Dad's interest to put in an electric fan to service the trans cooler if he's going to plow.

The auto is not a great unit but not a bad one either. Most failures in an auto are from cooking the fluid and still running it and behind a Cummins spinning the torque convertor by using a heavy foot.

I grew up in Maine and plowed many a mile with an auto. Heat is definatly your biggest enemy pushing snow- little air flow over the trans cooler.

Keep the fluid temp under control and keep good fluid in it and I bet it serves well.

Big Jimmy

 

The "front end turning all the time" is really not what is going on. Yes the short side axle, and the carrier is turning, but not under power. The drag you think you may be experiencing is minimal, probably not even enough to get you 1 mile to the gallon better after spending over a thousand bucks just to have hubs. Besides, I personally feel that keeping every thing spinning (free wheeling) in the front end leads to better lubrication and longer life. I grew up rock crawling the trails in the Sierra Nevada mountains (Rubicon, Barret Lake, Fordyce, etc) and can honestly say that unless you're doing some serious off roading, the CAD system should work fine for the average needs of people driving these trucks. The only add on that's even crossed my mind is replacing the switch (vacuum or electric, don't know off hand) with the cable that attaches under the dash. That way, it's a mechanical lock into 4WD. Besides, I like not having to get out of my truck in a snowstorm

 

It's a vaccum switch, and the line can get knocked off, while you are at the bottom of a hill, in a hole of muck, and not go in 4x4... Ask me how I know.

 

The carrier does not spin when the axle is declutched - only the spider gears are driven, which also spins the declutched half of the other axle.

'Course, the right hub is spinning its half of that disconnected axle.

If the carrier was spinning, fuel mileage would drop drastically, as that would also spin the front driveshaft and output gear in the transfer case, which would also spin the chain and sprockets.

Lots of unnecessary drag, right?