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Help Please, Abs and Air bag Lites

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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 01:30 PM
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From: Grove, Okla. USA. God Bless America
Help Please, Abs and Air bag Lites

I need your help please.

I turn on my key and wait for the system check lights to go out.
They all go out except ABS light. About 3 to 5 seconds the AIR BAG light comes back on.

Can start the truck the ABS light stays on and then the AIR BAG light comes back on.

Checked the fuses and they all check good.

Any ideas?????
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:24 PM
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additional info..

My m.p.h indicator is inop alo.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 07:45 PM
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Sure can use some help, PLEASE.

I will be starting a 1200 mile trip next week. Can't drive my truck like it is.

HELP, please
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:17 PM
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From: Whitehorse, cultural hub of the universe..
do you have steering wheel mounted cruise switches?
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 06:12 AM
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yas, sir
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 06:23 AM
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Make that read,, Yes, Sir
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 10:59 AM
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More Pain.

It looks like each time i turn my key on, something new pops up.

To add to the list of other things that quit working. I can now add the power windows and blower motor.

I have checked all of the fuses and they are good.

Almost afraid to turn the key on.

Thanks for your help.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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Firstly, are you checking the fuses in the dash, AND under the hood in the PDC? If a maxi fuse blows under the hood, you could lose power to multiple circuits in the dash fusebox.

How have you been checking the fuses; have you been making sure there is power to, and through, all the fuses, or just inspecting them visually? Make sure that with the key on, all the fuses do have power to them.

Next, it's possible that you have a bad contact in your ignition switch, or a broken wire in the column leading to or from the ign. switch. The best way would be to take the proper wiring diagram and check all the terminals on the switch to see if they have power when they should.

It's also a possibility that you just have several different problems at the same time. For the ABS & speedo problem, I would focus on the speed sensor on the rear differential housing. Have a good look at the wiring and connector, then test the sensor with an ohmmeter if necessary. I believe it should be between 1100 and 1800 ohms.
Hope this helps.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 01:10 PM
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I had a abs problem on my 95.Under the truck on drivers side frame rail is on plug and the cab support by drivers door is the other . I had a bad wire and that was my issue. Test all three ares from the frame to the front and see if you have power. Abs and the bags could be connected together on the same circuit I think. My brakes acted funny when the abs speed sensor was not getting a signal from the rear end. It won`t hurt to check these areas.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:04 PM
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Pulled each and every fuse and link. Fuse panel at drivers door (dash side panel) and under the hood fuse/link box

I pulled each and every one visual inspected and ohm'ed every one. They all tested good,

It must be a common connection somewhere they all "talk" to. I think this because nothing will work. I mean this because all of the fuses checked good yet nothing works

Power windows inop.
speedometer inop.
blower motor inop.
cruise control inop (speedometer inop).
Abs lite on.
Air bag lite on.

Afraid to check anything else.

All of my guages work, truck drives good.
Sure will be a long drive back to Okla from Central Fla if i don't get it fixed.

Will look at abs on the rail and see if the look/test good.

Thanks for the information. If any one else has an idea, send it my way.

Thanks
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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From: Whitehorse, cultural hub of the universe..
Your problem is in the column. where the wiring harness attaches to the backside of the key switch, There is a large gauge wire there that can break, or the connector melts. I have run in to many of these situations. It is on the underside of the column.

If it has gotten hot too many times, you'll need to change the actual ignition switch, as the contacts for the power on the "run" part of the switch will be arced out.

That said, ignition switches are cheap, and only take a short time to change. If it's just a broken wire, repair it properly, and happy motoring.

Good luck
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 08:11 PM
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From: Grove, Okla. USA. God Bless America
Thanks to everyone for your input.
Special thanks go out to "pind"
will disconnect my battery and look at that wiring AFTER i go get a switch, just in case i need it.

I also found out today my power mirrows are inop also.

Like i said before i am almost afraid to turn the key on.

Hey, the radio still works, so it can't be all bad.

Thanks, again.
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