Box5

Check the oil and coolant first, make sure theres no dillution between the two, Let it idle for a couple minutes and just listen, it should sound good, lol. Get in, check oil pressure gauge, voltage gauge, fuel gauge, make sure everything is in order there. Put it in drive and do a couple normal accelerations to see how it shifts under normal operation (it should shift fast and not over rev on any shift). If the rpms drop alot when the TC locks up, it's a sign of a inefficient TC. Then come to a stop and do a couple 3/4 throttle starts and see if u feel any slippage in the trans, than hold the throttle open and feel for any shutter in the trans, the boost should sound great under that accell, and than kind of coast to a stop feeling the transmission downshifting making sure it doesn't hold any gears. At idle with the truck in drive it will want to move forward even with the brake applied, just due to the great torque. So I always idle at stoplights with it in nuetral. You should drive it long enough to get it to operating temp to check where the oil temp likes to stay. Idle should always be smooth and constant, and responsive off idle, no hesitation.

Put the 4x4 through it's paces, you can do it on the move, just slow down to a creep for 4low, should have no grinding between the gears, make sure it's engaging and holding, so try a few pulls to make sure it holds good.

If those things check out, it's a go.

Pirate

Every one has their own personal likes and dislikes. Mine...I like the ease of fixing or working on older trucks but I also like the added creature comforts and "technology" of newer trucks. For me the "newer" won out. Easier to find a truck that has not been beat or abused. The VP-44 is easy to correct, just replace the junk lift pump with a decent aftermarket pump and make sure you have gauges. Chances are if you find a truck with gauges already installed the previous owner knew of the issues with the VP-44 and took the right precautions.

I love my '99 and since I put on the FASS and HRVP-44 it has been trouble free. I now have 160K on it and tow up to 18K. When the time comes to replace it I will go with the newest truck and lowest mileage I can afford at the time. I don't know if I have the "53" block because I have not bothered to look. No cracks and I have towed that 18K in mountains working the truck pretty hard.

Good luck with the rest of your research and enjoy the CTD when you decide which one to get!!

dieselfuelonly

Yeah that sounds like a good plan.

I would say test drive the truck like you plan to drive the truck. No, you don't have to go get yourself stuck in 6 feet of mud, but I'd make sure that the 4WD does work. Does it have 3.54s or 4.10s? Sorry if you already mentioned that. If its got 3.54s, merge into traffic going highway speed, keep it about 50-55, then put your foot on the floor. Listen for a low shuddering sound (you will feel it to). This can be a sign if problems with you're tranny. I'm just saying that, because I made the mistake of buying a truck with a bad tranny in it, and now I'm gonna be around $2,200 out.

The truck should feel pretty quick for its size, no its not going to get up to 60MPH in 3 seconds, but these diesels, they have a lot of power. Make sure you feel like you're getting all that power to the ground.

Good luck, and enjoy you're truck, whichever it may be!

AllanP

I paid a hair under 2 grand for mine at the dealership.

Nor_Cal_Angler

guys (and ladies if any out there) this has been a GREAT thread....thanks for all of the help......

i must say i did look at and post on two other boards....no names...i know how that is...(i belong to multipule fishing forums and we dont board bash) but they (the others) SHUT ME OUT...one person even went so far as to say...HE!! if you dont own one why the HE!! are u posting.....i mean come on...that is why we share the info....to HELP...

thanks so much....i will keep everyone here updated....

BOX..that was great info about the tranny on the test drive....will keep that info near the front of the brain when testing the various trucks i am looking at

thanks again with all the help....

NCA....jake

ps...i never thought this thread would get 4 pages of play....there is some GREAT INFO for a newbie......

fbx22

I agree but make sure the vehicle is warmed up and at normal operating temps otherwise it might do some of those same things even though the tranny is ok

Nor_Cal_Angler

so on the "newer" 2nd gen...is it safe to say that the only "major" concers are the fuel system issues.......if i were to upgrade/replace them i should be good to go, saying everyting else checks????

fbx22

AND the auto trans can be weak if they were abused and maintained improperly or especially when power chips are added

Box5

i agree with that 100%. Cold shifting is way different compared to when the trans is warmed up, all the more reason to take a nice long test drive. It's nice to inspect a truck when it's still cold so you can see how it warms up. in 30* weather mine will stumble for about 3-5 seconds than idle's smooth, some white smoke is no big deal, just as long as it clears up after a few seconds.

Sea:\>Drive

I bought my 01.5 in mid '05 w/21k on the clicker. I'm now at 60k and have had to replace some sensors in the trans and change my transfer pump out twice (actually I'm doing it the 2nd time on Saturday). Learned my lesson, no more OEM pumps for me.

If you're looking at 01-02's yes, the fuel supply system (upgrade and monitor it) and "maybe" trans. It is a mechanical device however, and none are perfect.

I'm very happy with mine. I've put a lot more parts on other vehicles in 40k miles than I have with this truck.

zulusafari

Wow, great info all around. Welcome to the board first of all, and enjoy! I received tons of great information from here, and am getting ready to replace my VP44 using instructions, tips, and photos posted on this site. I am upgrading my lift pump to a more reliable aftermarket setup, for approx. the same price (a bit more with new fittings, lines, and wiring harness) than doing the stock job. I love my 2001.5! It has lots of power, is very stable (never had any bad steering issues at all), comfortable - for a truck, and has what I want. I personally liked the 2001.5 the best for these reasons: Disk brakes, stronger blocks, improved VP44's (over initial offerings in 98 - 00), improved interior (over 94-97 -- strictly personal taste), easy to upgrade - plug in a chip, still have selectable 4x4 -- Though many dislike the CAD, I have had zero trouble with mine, still have wheel well liners, and it was affordable! What I don't like: no underhood pad, Auto tranny still feels a bit mushy, and stupid lift pump design. The things I dislike I can change. The original lift pump lasted until approx. 175k miles on my truck (I bought it with over 150k) but the darn thing still managed to damage the original VP44 when it died. I now have over 203k miles on the original (though damaged) VP44, and over 25k on the replacement "weak" lift pump. Weather and time permitting, I will be changing out the pumps this weekend for a much improved truck!!

Earlier trucks may have the bulletproof fueling system, but they also need attention to avoid catastrophic or expensive problems -- the afore mentioned "Killer Dowl Pins" or "53 block." Many will be quick to point out that very few people had the KDP ruin the engine or have the 53 block crack, and I will counter that all problems read about online are disproportionate to the number of trucks actually on the roads. (Of course, what I have read and heard on the Ford 6.0 may blow my theory a bit.)

Find a nice 24 valve, spend about $200 to upgrade the junk stock lift pump, and enjoy for a long time!!

OH! I don't need a diagnostic code reader for my truck (most codes, anyway) -- I can use the ignition switch and get the codes in the Odometer window. I find the codes can help eliminate a lot of mechanical testing to find the right source to my problem!!

HTH and FWIW.

Scramblinman

Hmmm, $60 for a tab, crank seal, and timing case cover gasket vs how many thousands for new electric lift pumps and VP44s?

The 53 block is by FAR more a 24v problem than a 12v one. Only some 1998 12v and maybe a few very late 1997 trucks would have those blocks.

I agree that problems read about online can be made out to be greater than they actually are, but when something is as widely reported as VP44s crapping out, you know there has to be a pretty good fire behind where all that smoke is coming from.

Junk Man

There are aftermarket fixes for all of the design weaknesses on both 12 & 24 valve trucks. 2nd gens have been out long enough so that a simple search will answer to most other questions. It will come down to what truck you find that's a good value. Don't go ragged out just because it's cheap. Likewise, high dollar pristine truck isn't a good work vehicle. Look for something that the person has taken care of but doesn't think is worth it's weight in gold. Good deals come along especially when you already have one. Rule #1, never walk onto a car lot. Drive on.

Scramblinman

I'm curious what kind of fix there is to positively ensure that a VP44 will not fail. From what I have read, even aftermarket lift pump systems and monitoring the fuel pressure is no guarantee that a VP44 will not fail at any given time.

Junk Man

Constant fuel supply & guage to monitor. You don't hear of many going out if those conditions are met. Common Q: What's the first thing I should do to my truck? Answer: get guages so you can at least monitor fuel pressure. Then upgrade your fuel system. That basic guage/upgrade question is asked weekly on every forum. You don't hear: My FASS or other monitored system has been working flawlessly & I just lost my vp.